I think I might have the terminology wrong, but the fuel that I'm seeing is coming from the base of one of the injectors (on the top of the engine).

Aren't the injector valves on the top of the injection pump? See image (although this is a different model and year).

I looked at one of the Diesel Giant DIY pages and it didn't show a seal or o-ring on the injectors but it did mention carbon flakes that caused a leak that was fixed after he cleaned them well. Maybe I should pull that injector and clean the housing??

I'm a novice at this stuff, so any help/clarification is greatly appreciated. Thanks -harv

Attached Thumbnails

 

arnoneh,

Take a soda bottle of fuel and insert the input of the fuel pump line into the bottle. This will pump fuel from the bottle into the fuel system. The engine should then start.

Quickly connect the fuel line back to the fuel line from the tank. The engine should keep running.

This trick got me started in a rest stop after I replaced the secondary filter when I had parked with the rear of the car lower than the front. U might also try raising the rear of the car above the front and put more fuel in the tank.

P E H

arnoneh,

Take a soda bottle of fuel and insert the input of the fuel pump line into the bottle. This will pump fuel from the bottle into the fuel system. The engine should then start.

Quickly connect the pump fuel line back to the fuel line from the tank. The engine should keep running.

This trick got me started in a rest stop after I replaced the secondary filter when I had parked with the rear of the car lower than the front. U might also try raising the rear of the car above the front and put more fuel in the tank.

P E H

The engine shouldn't be THAT hard to re-start if run out of fuel. Put fuel in the tank, crank with your foot on the floor, and it should light up. When changing the main spin-on filter, fill it with clean diesel (or Diesel Purge) before re-installing... this will save a huge amount of cranking (it takes forever to fill an empty filter just by cranking). Assuming you have fuel present, next step is to verify the glow plugs are getting voltage. If you have both fuel AND good glow... read below.

My dad had a similar problem with his '87. The filters and plugs were fine. Turned out the oxidation catalyst had plugged. When it is plugged solid, the car WILL NOT START. Easy test - remove the bolt/plug at the exhaust manifold, in the #1 cylinder, and try to start the engine. If it starts, or at least tries to run, when it didn't before... you probably have a plugged exhaust.

__________________
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Woops, missed the last post - sorry. Sounds like you have an air leak in the supply side somewhere, causing the starting problem on a hill, or when the tank isn't full.

The injector leak is either bad return hoses (the little braided ones - replace them if they're old), or the injector body is leaking. There is no seal inside, there are just machined surfaces that are supposed to be perfectly flat, and seal together. You can try and tighten the top half to the bottom, but it's easier done in a bench vise. If the injector is removed, the heat shield must be replaced.




If you're a recent owner of the 1987 300D, you might want to read this arrticle:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/124.1x3_buying_tips.txt

Attached Thumbnails

 

Sorry, one more question. To replace the injector valves, I know I need a star shaped bit to removed the securing tabs. But to remove the stub, it looks like it is some sort of serrated or gear-like body....is there a special socket or wrench for that? If so, what's the best way to deal with getting those off?

Also, can I install a manual priming pump somehow as with older models?

Thanks -harv

You are referring to the delivery valves at the injection pump, which need a special serrated socket for removal (see photo below). This socket is available from the dealer for about $35 or so. Unless you have a fuel leak at the top of the injection pump, you don't need this. If you need to change these, you must have the area surgically clean, as NO dirt or dust can enter the fuel system! It helps to remove the intake manifold. A special torque procedure is used... 30Nm, release, 30Nm, release, final torque 30-35Nm... do not overtighten. If you screw it up, you'll know it, because the engine will nail and/or idle poorly afterwards.

No, you cannot retrofit the hand-priming pump. You wouldn't want to, it's notorious for leaking. The 603 engine in your '87 has a high-volume, self-priming pump. If you still have starting problems, you have a leak that needs to be fixed. After the leak is fixed, you won't need to worry about priming anything.

Yeah, one-time. If you do it correctly, it is one-time, if you take it to the dealer, it'll take a couple of tries.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff