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  #1  
Old 04-05-2008, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bio300TDTdriver View Post
Brian,

What are you using in the SDLs? What are your change intervals. I have about 5k on the Mobil 1 in my wagon. I was going to do an analysis at 6k, but you guys have me thinking about doing it sooner now.

On an unrelated issue (at least to this thread) what should I torque my new gasket to on the EGR plate?

Thanks,

Chris
The SDL ('86) gets Rotella Syn and a change at 5K. It's soot levels at that interval are quite low (less than .8%) and, on occasion, I go to 6K with it. One lifter decides to make a racket every so often.........not too frequently.

The '87 hasn't been driven in awhile.

I don't think anybody torques them..........but, I'd advise keeping the torque somewhat low to start. The gasket sealing ring is quite thin and you don't want to mash it flat. Try about 10 lb-ft. and see how it goes. That should be more than sufficient to properly crush the gasket and prevent the removal of the screws. But, check the screws after a month or two and make sure they will hold at this torque level.
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  #2  
Old 04-05-2008, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
The SDL ('86) gets Rotella Syn and a change at 5K. It's soot levels at that interval are quite low (less than .8%) and, on occasion, I go to 6K with it. One lifter decides to make a racket every so often.........not too frequently.

The '87 hasn't been driven in awhile.

I don't think anybody torques them..........but, I'd advise keeping the torque somewhat low to start. The gasket sealing ring is quite thin and you don't want to mash it flat. Try about 10 lb-ft. and see how it goes. That should be more than sufficient to properly crush the gasket and prevent the removal of the screws. But, check the screws after a month or two and make sure they will hold at this torque level.
I'll try that. How about some loctite blue on the threads? Is that location to hot for it to work?
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  #3  
Old 04-05-2008, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Bio300TDTdriver View Post
I'll try that. How about some loctite blue on the threads? Is that location to hot for it to work?
I don't normally use Loctite unless the locating really demands it. You certainly can try it if you're concerned. The heat is not excessive.
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  #4  
Old 04-05-2008, 12:40 PM
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I'll probably stick to dino oil. What's the best dino oil

Since I still believe that 3000 miles is a good time to change oil, I'll probably stick to dino oil.

What's the best dino oil for a 1984 MBZ 300D Turbo?

And should it be 5/40w?

Thanks
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Old 04-05-2008, 12:41 PM
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... one more thing

I forgot to state that the temps outside now range between 45F and 70F.
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  #6  
Old 04-05-2008, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Divin View Post
Since I still believe that 3000 miles is a good time to change oil, I'll probably stick to dino oil.

What's the best dino oil for a 1984 MBZ 300D Turbo?
Delo 400, Delvac 1500, or Rotella are all good choices. The weight is 15W-40 which is a bit too heavy for winter starts..........the reason to stick with one of the synthetics.
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  #7  
Old 04-05-2008, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Delo 400, Delvac 1500, or Rotella are all good choices. The weight is 15W-40 which is a bit too heavy for winter starts..........the reason to stick with one of the synthetics.
Agreed, 15W40 is best and will start well down to 25*F in my chart on the bottle. 5W40 is only really recommended for temps at 10*F and less. You should be fine with 15W40 now and Rotella is a good one.

All diesel engine oil should be "C" rated followed by a second set of letters and numbers, such as "CH-4/CI-4". The higher C rating, the better oil protection and resistance to oil burn off as well as avoiding dry starts!

I also add Lucas Viscosity improver and this has made my engine idle a little faster slightly and my oil pressure at idle a little higher. Less engine noise after sitting for several days also would tell me it helps to cling to metal parts and avoid dry starts.
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