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#1
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The '87 hasn't been driven in awhile. ![]() I don't think anybody torques them..........but, I'd advise keeping the torque somewhat low to start. The gasket sealing ring is quite thin and you don't want to mash it flat. Try about 10 lb-ft. and see how it goes. That should be more than sufficient to properly crush the gasket and prevent the removal of the screws. But, check the screws after a month or two and make sure they will hold at this torque level. |
#2
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#3
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I don't normally use Loctite unless the locating really demands it. You certainly can try it if you're concerned. The heat is not excessive.
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#4
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I'll probably stick to dino oil. What's the best dino oil
Since I still believe that 3000 miles is a good time to change oil, I'll probably stick to dino oil.
What's the best dino oil for a 1984 MBZ 300D Turbo? And should it be 5/40w? Thanks
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1984 300D Turbo |
#5
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... one more thing
I forgot to state that the temps outside now range between 45F and 70F.
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1984 300D Turbo |
#6
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Delo 400, Delvac 1500, or Rotella are all good choices. The weight is 15W-40 which is a bit too heavy for winter starts..........the reason to stick with one of the synthetics.
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#7
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All diesel engine oil should be "C" rated followed by a second set of letters and numbers, such as "CH-4/CI-4". The higher C rating, the better oil protection and resistance to oil burn off as well as avoiding dry starts! I also add Lucas Viscosity improver and this has made my engine idle a little faster slightly and my oil pressure at idle a little higher. Less engine noise after sitting for several days also would tell me it helps to cling to metal parts and avoid dry starts. |
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