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  #15  
Old 04-23-2014, 10:48 AM
Graham's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortsguy1 View Post
Jeremy (or anyone else who has done this fix)-
Could you provide more details about the actual wire repair. Did you solder in new wires, or use connectors? What actual length of new wire was needed? I assume stranded wire is better than solid wire, but is there a specific gauge and insulation type that I am looking for? How did you insulate the repaired wire bundle? I have no idea if heat shrink tubing will stand up to repeated bending like that. If I tackle this, I would rather not have to do it more than once (per door).

Thanks!
I had this problem on my 85 300D.

I replaced the wires that pass through the B-Pillar with a 3-conductor flexible power cord with strong PVC cover - I cut a piece off a short extension cord. I added a separate ground wire taped to outside of cord. Then crimped to the car wiring at the floor, staggering the joins.

The mesh sheath that covers the wires on the original design, provides no protection. And it contains power wires and a ground. In my case the ground and one power wire were shorting out. I think that what happens, is that the opening and closing of the door tugs a bit on the wiring. The inside of the B-Pillar is not smooth. There are sharp edges on the inside of the door check and perhaps elsewhere too.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
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