You can bring the old ones to any GOOD hydraulic shop and they can fab up new flexible portions with any material you like (rubber or braided steel). They will be as good as new ones, if not better because you can choose what pressure rating of hose to use. I know some people will not believe this but there is nothing magical done at the factory when they make these up, they just crimp high pressure hose to the end fittings...any shop can make them and they will be fine and probably less than half the price of new ones.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Maybe if we can find a shop that would do it we'll consider that.

Think braided stainless steel would be up to the task?

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Well, I'm not dissapointed in the price. I got my lower one for $55.00 and the upper one was $52.00 both in the brand Conti!

Good point though! I'll keep the metal portion and take it to a hose maker, we have one real close to my house, and have him make up a spare set! Good Advice, thanks, I never thought of that! If no one has had problems with the Conti, then maybe I'm just a little paranoid since this could cost a new engine!

I don't see why not since most stainless steel has a burst strength of 1000 PSI! Braided steel would help to protect the hoses too!

Wow! Than was a good one for you, shame she didn`t appreciate all of her dads work. but then there was no value to it for her. to her it was just an old Dinosaur of a car.

I changed to manual because I was tird of the electric roof causing me so much grief. I had read about the change over, and it is in the DIY Articles posted by Bruce Kennedy.
I removed the parts off an 81 240D, and just installed them in March. I just need to get the wheel that rolls up the ramp, and the U-piece next to the wheel that pushes on the black block adjusted to raise the back of the roof and push it forward.

The manual is so much simpler, turn handle, move roof, turn handle, lock into position.

On the oilcooler lines, later on after I replaced them, I installed the Amsoil Full Flow, By Pass oil filter system. I used the oil Cooler lines for the source of oil supply.
I had the Hose Shop weld/braze? fittings on the end of the metal lines where the crimps are. then made up new hoses, they used the push lock type hoses, but I felt better adding some hose clamps.
The oil goes through the filters first, then through the cooler. It looks similar to the one OMRGABENZ has posted somewhere on one of these threads.

Charlie ☺

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Yeah, she didn't appreciate a thing! While cleaning out the car, I found a round concave mirror under the seat with a couple of straws rubber banded to it! He even had a new paint job put on it too.

She liked the Mercedes because it was a status symbol for her, but I feel sorry for the guy. His daughter is just another one of those who will go through her life crotch first to get whatever she wants. I met her once and thought she was one mercenary little b**ch!

Look up a hydraulic shop in the yellow pages. I just had one make a custom turbo oil feed for me.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Cool, thanks!

Looks like I'm ordering the second one too. The rubber section is good, but the metal tube was cut in two by the PO. I can't get this fitting to stop leaking oil!

I just replaced the lines on my 300sd. Used factory hoses. I've read too many horror stories about using aftermarket oil cooler lines. BTW, I don't know the design differences, but I was originally using dieselgiant's guide as a reference. All went as listed until it came time to actually put the new lines in. His guide mentions taking the old lines down and out the back, and that the new ones go in the way the old ones came out. Well, after wrestling with the new lines for an hour and having no luck getting them in correctly, I looked at it from up above in the engine bay. With the motor mounts out, I was able to slip them in place from the top in about 2 minutes.. I was never so angry and happy at the same time..

Ditto! Although I didn't try the removing and replacing towards the rear of the vehicle, it was definitely easier with the motor mount out of the way!

John

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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

Looks like I'll be pulling the motor mount too then! I have 2 new ones id the old ones are bad.

Just as I thought! This repair where the PO had cut the metal tube to get the upper cooling hose in is making it necessary to replace this one too!

Of course the union fitting leaks now, I disturbed it!