Hello all, I am going to change all of the above for the first time and I have some questions. I've watched the Dieselgiant dvd on the engine mounts and spent alot of time searching the posts here. Questions are....
1) Does the jack have to be under the tranny when doing the tranny mount or will under the oil pan work while doing the engine mounts/shocks?
2) In a previous post it stated "Don't replace the trans mount while the motor mounts are loose." Is this correct? I was under the impression that all the mounts and engine shocks could be changed while everything was loose.
3) How are the engine shocks actually put in once the bolts and hardware are off?
4) Any other tips, tricks and encouragement would be appreciated.

Thanks,Jeff

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1981 240d aka "The rust bucket"

Do the motor mounts one at a time. Put the jack under the oil pan with a block of on top. Position it slightly to the side your replacing--you'll get it up further. Break the bolts first on both sides to save time underneath the car. Just jack the car enough to slide the mounts out--if one is collapsed, it'll be pretty far. Do the trans seperately. Jack with a piece of wood on top towards the back of the trans. Check the flex disc and shifter bushings while your there. I just did all this 2 weeks ago on my 300D. About 3 hours.

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1990 300D 2.5
1991 F350 7.3 Dually IDI

1997 F350 gasser dump
1980 H-D 93 inch Shovel
2000 SE Roadglide

Don't know your car is the same as mine, but it can't be too different. Don't know about those engine shocks...

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1990 300D 2.5
1991 F350 7.3 Dually IDI

1997 F350 gasser dump
1980 H-D 93 inch Shovel
2000 SE Roadglide

The engine shocks are easier to replace by removing the old shock with the top mount as one piece even if you don't need to replace the mounts. This way you can remove and replace the shock and mount from the top side of the motor mount arm.

I removed both motor mounts at the same time, but I was also doing the oil cooler lines so the extra lift I could do with both mounts removed was helpful.

Don't forget to unclip the fan shroud and the linkage at the firewall.

I also found this job much easier with the front of the car on jack stands and the front wheels off. This gives you more room to maneuver. Remember, the floor jack will be right in the center to lift the motor, so you have to work around it.

Don't forget to put the heat shields back over the new mounts.

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Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

The engine shocks can be removed with out jacking up the engine; you still need to jack the car up to get under it though.
Check out this site for the service manual way to remove the mounts and engine shocks.
http://www.pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/Main.html

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

So far, All is going well. Replaced the motor mount. Did it from the top. Very easy. The bolts from the passenger side motor mount came out fairly easy. BUT the outside bolt on the driver side motor mount is stuck. I'm afraid it may have started to strip out. Sprayed it with PB Blaster and will try again tomorrow being very gentle. Now the question- What do I do if God forbid this bolt does strip? Seems like a nightmare to try and fix.

Thanks, JEFF

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1981 240d aka "The rust bucket"