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#1
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I don't suppose this will help but let me relate an old Single banger bikers trick to tighten the Flywheel onto the crank. It might could be applied if someone could find a way to do it. We introduce a short piece of nice cotton rope into the chamber (not sure if could be through a Injector hole or something? We always stick it in the Spark plug hole) and this binds the Piston before it comes over the top but cushions it, and stops the crank and holds it. Now... we are normally trying or like 50 -75 ft Pounds here so I don't know what kind of stress this is going to put on the Rod but... it does stop the crank from turning... and it does cushion the piston and then the rope is just pulled out.
Not sure its applicable for these... but I just came to mind.
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1983 300D-Turbo - Deep Blue w Palomino MB Tex (total loss in fire 1/5/09 RIP) 1995 E320 W124 Polar White/Grey Mushroom MB Tex 2005 F150 Supercrew - Arizona Beige - Lear topper 1985 Piaggio Vespa T5 - Black and Chrome www.cphilip.com |
#2
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I think what I am going to do is tighten it as best I can, then take it on over to the dealer (I think it will survive an 8.5 mile drive) and have them torque it to spec....then I don't have to worry about it....nor do I have the tools to tighten it properly....my 1/2 drive torque wrench only goes up to 150ft/lb.
Sound good? ![]() My craftsman 1/2" drive socket wrench + my deep socket were what was on the engine at the time. It would appear that first it hung there spinning on the bolt, then the fan conveniently flipped the ratchet direction switch, and it slammed against the A/C compressor and undid the bolt. Voila. ![]() ![]() Never, ever, will I leave a tool on the engine again by accident. I have new methods now. (all tools removed even if I am coming right back to it)
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#3
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You could buy yourself a 250 ft/lb 1/2" drive torque wrench instead of handing you money over to the dealer.
Any time I create a potential hazard, I lock my keys in my tool box as a reminder. A few weeks ago, that saved me from doing exactly what you did. |
#4
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Were you adjusting your valves?
I remove the fan and shroud when doing the valves so that I can turn the engine from up top. Keeps me from leaving the breaker bar and socket attached.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D |
#5
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No, sadly I was just rotating it by hand to make sure there was enough clearance between the crank pin and tach sensor.
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__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#6
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Kind of off-topic, but isn't that more than the max. torque spec of the engine? If the wrench was already against something to not allow inertia into the equation, it seems like it wouldn't even have cranked.
Sounds like the tools conspired against you. Was the crank sensor part of the weekend's used-parts booty?
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#7
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Using the starter to intentionally loosen the crank bolt (with a breaker bar wedged against the deck) is a fairly common practice.
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#8
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The ratchet was hanging down and set to turn the engine, meaning the engine started, and it was hanging down freewheeling for a second, then the fan conveniently flipped the direction switch on the ratchet, it spun around and locked on something, undid the bolt (assume the engine was on at the point it happened) and quickly unbolted it and dropped onto the floor....nothing was actually damaged, it just perfectly removed the bolt!
![]() I still think I will have the dealer do it tomorrow. Any risks tightening it as best I can and driving for 8-10 miles as gently as possible? If I get off for $250 or less I will be a happy guy.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#9
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Update:
I just went out and studied the area where the ratchet was "flung" around and jammed to release the bolt, but if this had actually happened, it would have taken out the transmission cooler line on the passenger side, as well as likely done some real damage to the water pump pulley and fan....but there is no damage to be found! ![]() ![]() ![]() Will I be ok snugging it as tight as I can and bringing it to the dealer? I don't want to have a disaster happen on the way..... ![]()
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#10
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The dealer is going to charge you like $100 to get it in the bay, just buy a larger torque wrench.
Crank the living crap out of it for now.
__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#11
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Swap in a manual transmission.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
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