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  #1  
Old 05-09-2008, 04:39 AM
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Oil change particulars for 617? Randoms questions from new-b.

I changed the oil in my first and recently purchased 79 300D, no turbo.
I was told by a few that the capacity is 8 quarts, but that reads pretty high above the full mark on the dip stick (which may or may not be stock I suppose).

1- Can anyone here verify the engine oil capacity for this motor? Will slightly over-filling cause difficulty in shutting down?

2 - coolant: Zerex G05 is right? Do I need to take preventative measures to avoid cavitation? What are they?

3 - Instrument cluster: my cluster has (American?) gauges; my temp gauge is displayed in Fahrenheit. What is the normal operating temp for these engines? Mine seems to consistently sit just below 175f, although at higher freeway speeds and on warmer days it will go to the next highest mark, but I don't know what temp that indicates.

4 - Should the radiator be totally full? It's about an inch and a half low by looking at it - not sure if it needs to be his way for what ever reason.

Thanks again folks!

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Old 05-09-2008, 06:02 AM
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My 77 300D, (non T) owners manual says 7.5 quarts, they shutting down problem is probably due to a vac leak, these engines have a vac module, with a vac pump, if you have a leak, doors won't lock and engine will not stop, very difficult to find, they have a mitivac tester, you can look at the threads and get a diagram to trace. I think your model has a rebuildable vac pump, that you can re build for around $30. I don't use the MB antifreeze, I use enviro safe, and have done so since I bought the car in 77, with no problems. Since we don't have a tank resovior, I to, have about a inch of space in the radiator, probably due to expansion when it gets up to operating temp. My guages are like yours, the car should run around 180, just above the 175, when very hot weather it may move up a little more. It has an electric fan that kicks on above 190 (I think) but you have to have the air conditioning on for that to happen (I think). Make sure you have the correct dip stick, don't run the engine with too much oil.
Hope this helps, not an expert, but a lot those guys are on this site.
Ron
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  #3  
Old 05-09-2008, 06:22 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Good answers.

Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #4  
Old 05-09-2008, 08:20 AM
Craig
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Regarding the coolant, I either use a 50/50 mixture of the MB stuff or Zerex G05. There should be enough to keep the top of the tubes covered.
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Old 05-09-2008, 08:38 AM
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the amount of oil your car needs depends on how much came out.
7.5 quarts should be correct, but 6.5 may be all you can get in if you have sludge, and other obstructions. did you open the filter before you drained the oil, or after? the filter should be opened and changed first, then drain the oil pan while the filter lid is still off.
best level for the oil is about 1/4" below the top notch on the stick.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #6  
Old 05-09-2008, 11:29 AM
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PS.. does opening the filter housing also drain the cooler properly / completely?
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Old 05-09-2008, 01:37 PM
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After changing the oil on our 617's (all three) I put in 7 qts even and then check the level, it ususally ends up just below max....which is perfect. 8 is likely too much
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  #8  
Old 05-09-2008, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
PS.. does opening the filter housing also drain the cooler properly / completely?
NO, but it's not needed to be drained.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #9  
Old 05-09-2008, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moorewr View Post
My 77 300D, (non T) owners manual says 7.5 quarts, they shutting down problem is probably due to a vac leak, these engines have a vac module, with a vac pump, if you have a leak, doors won't lock and engine will not stop, very difficult to find, they have a mitivac tester, you can look at the threads and get a diagram to trace. I think your model has a rebuildable vac pump, that you can re build for around $30.
In my admitted ignorance, I don't think the shut-down prob is due to vacuum leak. It would shut down fine before I changed the oil, and the problem is intermittent and infrequent, so I'm wondering if in fact I do have too much oil and some is getting into the combustion chamber and fueling the engine after shut-off??? But that doesn't seem entirely logical since the prob is intermittent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moorewr View Post
I don't use the MB antifreeze, I use enviro safe, and have done so since I bought the car in 77, with no problems. Since we don't have a tank resovior, I to, have about a inch of space in the radiator, probably due to expansion when it gets up to operating temp. My guages are like yours, the car should run around 180, just above the 175, when very hot weather it may move up a little more. It has an electric fan that kicks on above 190 (I think) but you have to have the air conditioning on for that to happen (I think).
Good news, thanks! Does your gauge ever get up to the mark above 175?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moorewr View Post

Make sure you have the correct dip stick, don't run the engine with too much oil.
Not sure how to do this without buying a new one and comparing. Is anyone willing to provide a measurement of theirs?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moorewr View Post
Hope this helps, not an expert, but a lot those guys are on this site.
Ron
It certainly does, thanks very much for the input.
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  #10  
Old 05-09-2008, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig View Post
Regarding the coolant, I either use a 50/50 mixture of the MB stuff or Zerex G05. There should be enough to keep the top of the tubes covered.
Great, I'm going to flush and replace soon anyway but wanted to be sure.
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  #11  
Old 05-09-2008, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
the amount of oil your car needs depends on how much came out.
7.5 quarts should be correct, but 6.5 may be all you can get in if you have sludge, and other obstructions. did you open the filter before you drained the oil, or after? the filter should be opened and changed first, then drain the oil pan while the filter lid is still off.
best level for the oil is about 1/4" below the top notch on the stick.
Hmm, I don't remember the exact sequence in which I opened/changed the filter. I think I began draining the pan then changed the filter while that was happening, closed up the housing, then filled engine (after re-installing drain plug, of course). Any problems there? I did notice the oil gauge took a moment or so to read any pressure after, I'm assuming until the lines were purged, then shot all the way up to 45 and began to come down again as temp increased. Again assuming that makes sense, as the oil becomes less viscous as it heats up??

Thanks again
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  #12  
Old 05-09-2008, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eugenicferlie View Post
Hmm, I don't remember the exact sequence in which I opened/changed the filter. I think I began draining the pan then changed the filter while that was happening, closed up the housing, then filled engine (after re-installing drain plug, of course). Any problems there? I did notice the oil gauge took a moment or so to read any pressure after, I'm assuming until the lines were purged, then shot all the way up to 45 and began to come down again as temp increased. Again assuming that makes sense, as the oil becomes less viscous as it heats up??

Thanks again
yup, that sequence should be fine... just don't want the drain plug back in before you pop the top on the oil filter...
how does the cam look through the 710 cap? any sludge?
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #13  
Old 05-09-2008, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
yup, that sequence should be fine... just don't want the drain plug back in before you pop the top on the oil filter...
how does the cam look through the 710 cap? any sludge?
Looks great, no sludge. As soon as I can drag myself away from the forum and put on some skivvies I'm going to adjust the valves, and I'll have a truer answer then.
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  #14  
Old 05-09-2008, 04:14 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eugenicferlie View Post
In my admitted ignorance, I don't think the shut-down prob is due to vacuum leak. It would shut down fine before I changed the oil, and the problem is intermittent and infrequent, so I'm wondering if in fact I do have too much oil and some is getting into the combustion chamber and fueling the engine after shut-off??? But that doesn't seem entirely logical since the prob is intermittent.
It's more likely that you loosened one of the vacuum line that runs about the oil filter housing, we've all done that.
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  #15  
Old 05-09-2008, 05:32 PM
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50/50 coolant is overkill. MB says to use 40/60 coolant/distilled water which will still protect it down to -22*F.

The more water you have in the system, the better it will cool.

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