I have searched the archives and read till I am blue in the face...
This tutorial shows removing valve lash when using a dial indicator...
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch

But, I will simply be aligning the marks for lack of indicator tool.
The article implies that they re-lashed the valve after checking via tower marks...but it is not totally clear, and you guys are the pros, so..

Do I need to remove the lash on that #1 intake valve? Or just align the marks and check as is?

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

removing the lash is just for the dial indicator so it gets a correct reading.
no dial indicator, no need to remove the lash.
aligning the marks it's critical to get the cam marks EXACTLY right when checking stretch. find the pictures here to be SURE you do it right

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
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My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

ah ha! That is where the tutorial is vague. They imply that you are starting the second procedure with lash removed, then lash after you check. But the wording had me wondering...
Thank you.

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

When you align the Camshaft Gear timing mark with the Camshaft Tower mark you are actually checking the timing of the Camshaft as you would when you assemble the engine. When it was originally timed this would be Zero on the Crankshaft Damper/Pulley. The assumption is that if you line of the marks and look at the Crankshaft Damper/Pulley if it is NOT on Zero that it is caused by the chain stretch/wear and gives you a rough estimate.
Here is a split image Chamshaft and Camshaft Tower on the left; Crankshaft Damper/Pulley on the right. As near As I can tell I am about 2 degrees off.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I better do the dial indicator test someday soon, my readings this way were like 6 degrees over

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

Yes. I want to check mine also (even bought a mm dial indicator;already had the magnetic base) but never seem to get around to it. I want to see how close the Camtower alignment method matches with the official 2mm method.
If you do not mind converting inches to mm Horbor Freight often has a sale on a set; dial indicator + magnetic base.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

When you use the dial indicator, make sure it is as straight as you can get it. Any angle will throw off your reading. Do it multiple times, resetting the dial multiple times to confirm your readings. The same is true with the cam sprocket method. Do it several times to make sure you get it right.

When I did mine, the cam sprocket method and dial indicator gave me the same exact readings. Another forum member, Brian Carlton I think, has been collecting some data from people who have done both methods to see just how accurate the cam sprocket method is. Based on the experience of several forum members, it appears to be very accurate.

Scott

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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

So does 6 degrees mean I am in immediate trouble here?

The chain is one job I don't think I would tackle. What does that cost

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

I have always herd "you need too start thinking about it at 5 degrees".

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

To make things easier when I ordered the dial indicator I ordered a set of extension Points so the indicator would be above the Chamshaft to make it easier to get the indicator straight. Note: American threaded extension points may or may not fit an imported dial indicator. If the threads size is not stated on the ad specifictions you will have to ask for that information. I had to order metric extension points; yet I have another indicator made in the same country that is threaded for the American size points.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Call the Dealer for a price and call some other places. I live near Los Angeles the price in Ohio of some other place could be a lot different.
I would would ask the members who they recommend in your area.
Check out the threads on what Companies Timing chain to buy. From what I have read you are best off with the IWIS chain.
Go to the Diesel Gaint internet site he had some how to do pics and what he recommends to replace along with the chain.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel