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1981 240D Engine running hot and difficulty changing water pump
Hello all, My 240D has been running up to 90C everyday after I flushed the entire cooling system and that is with the heater on full heat. My auxillary fan does not kick on at all, I removed and tested the T-Stat which works but did hear some squealing coming from the water pump. I removed this without any difficulty. I used spray on gasket remover and a razor blade to remove the old material. I coated the pump with blue RTV and put the gasket on and coated the other side of the gasket. I put the pump in place and hand tightened all the bolts but when I began slowly tightening each in a criss cross fashion the right upper area of the pump pushed out and ripped the gasket (I replaced with an aftermarket WP as MB wanted $124 as opposed to $32). Do you think that some residual gasket remover caused this or am I doing something wrong? Does anyone know when the auxillary fan is supposed to kick on and does it run after the engine is stopped? I have been reading about the liklihood of the radiator fins being clogged and I will clean those as well but what is the most efficient way to flush out the inside other than a prestone liquid flush. Any help would be appreciated on this. Thank You.
Noel Smith Morrow, Ohio 1981 240D Euro 146k on clock but non-functional. |
#2
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Quote:
Quote:
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#3
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Okay, thanks for the info on the fan. I should only use the gasket and no sealer? Thanks
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#4
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Yes, perfectly clean mating surfaces and the paper gasket only.
I've never seen a $32 water pump...was it german or china made?
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Cheers, Robert |
#5
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Be sire to Clean all the RTV gasket material that has squeezed into your system out if possible.
Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#6
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Hi All, Well, No problem with getting the water pump back on, thatnks for the advice ForcedInduction and Robert. The pump came from Autozone with a lifetime warranty, states made in USA and foreign countries so don't know for sure where it is made. I do still have a problem with it heating up to 90C and will climb a bit higher when not accelerating. I used concentrated degreaser and coated the entire radiator and trans cooler, let it sit for about 1 hour and thoroughly sprayed it down. Is there anything else that I should be doing to correct this? The highest the temp was prior to this was 80C and that was for at least a year of my driving, Thanks again, Noel
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#7
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90C isn't too bad.
Mine climbs to 90C in driving and idling, it'll climb to 100, then sit there. Previously would climb to 115-120 on the highway, and around 100 in the city. That's after a brand new radiator and a full coolant flush...not sure why it's running a little bit high but its way better than before. The odd thing is, I think my temp sender is slightly broke -- the temperature needle eventually will jump around a little bit and then peak at like 110C and then stay there until the car is turned off. I've replaced the sender, so I Think it must be the panel grounds.
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1983 Mercedes-Benz 240D Automatic, A/C, Power Sunroof, Power Right Side Mirror 231K Miles FOR SALE MAKE OFFER |
#8
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The last post jogged my memory. What if your temperature indicator has aged a little and is giving you a slightly false reading? Happens. On a 240d as long as it never boils over everything is probably okay. Or technically car is serviceable. This is of course with not running the heater motor.
Engine may be a little more efficient at slightly elevated temperatures. With engine up to temperature. Try a very llong hill if you have one locally. If engine does not loose coolant or boil over I would forget about it and just drive the car myself. A completly different set of rules apply to the later engines with aluminium heads. You have the boat anchor engine instead that is all cast iron. ![]() |
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