I have a 1982 300sd and have a bad water leak at the rear window.It looks like it is leaking between the rubber seal and the glass but it may be leaking between the window seal and the body.Any suggestions besides taking it to a window repair shop? thanks.

I just ordered a non hardening Windshield Sealant from Fastlane. $22.50 plus shipping. It comes from Mercedes so you may be able to get it at a dealership. I have not tried it yet. I did use a hardening type on my windshield and it helped a little but did not solve my problem. I do not know if there is enough room to get a sealant in the rear window under the gasket. See if you can lift up the gasket at all. If there is room to squeeze some sealant in there, you don't have a lot to lose by trying.

I am sure someone with more experience will chime in and give you some direction.

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85 300D 75K Anthracite Grey 0-60 in 13 seconds **For Sale**
84 300D 333K Black (The Velveteen Rabbit) 0-60 in 14 seconds
00 Toyota Sienna 208K (Sold)
15 Subaru Outback 43K
11 Subaru Outback 67K
98 Ford Taurus 100K (Gertie - Was Grandma's - drove it to church and shopping - really) Daughter's car now.
30 Model A Ford 2 Door Sedan (Sold) 0-60 in . . . Never reached 60

on my sd the seal was warped at the top of the rear window and didnt even sit flat. It is rock hard from the sun. It was leaking from the top of the window and coming down my passenger side rear seat belt. So i took some window silicone (like normal silicone but thinner so it flows) and dumped it down the cracks and holes in the seal. You have to re-apply it several times because the stuff is so thin it won't seal the first time as it has to build up. No more leaks and you cant even see the stuff

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1981 300SD 512k OM603

I just did the same thing as the gentalman above descrbed and am waiting for it to rain to see if this is successful.

I have had some luck fixing these leaks by first cleaning under the rubber (I use denatured alcohol) then using black "windshield" caulk. I mask off both sides and keeping the tip of the caulk tube under the rubber while squeezing in the "right" amount can be a challenge but easily doable if you take your time.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

If your seal isn't totally trashed, try "Captain Tolley's creeping crack seal".
Available at West Marine online or at their stores.

Fantastic stuff. And invisible once applied, if you're careful.

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

your wasting your time and money on window sealers ......
The rubber is dry and rotten ..... it is also cracked and actually holds moisture.
Yes if you want to spend a few dollars on a beater sure why not....
These cars are prone to rust and the window seals are the weak link. Why not fix it once and fix it right. Your really saving your floor pans from rotting out the floors....(since I do sheet metal fabrication I see this a lot)
I purchased new front and rear window seals and a local glass shop send a guy to my house. He R and R both front and rear windows at a modest fee of $245.00.
Best money ever spent on my 1972 4.5. and no stained wood on the dash!!

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2003 SLK 230 (85000)
1999 E300 Turbo Diesel (388,000)
1991 350SD Turbo Diesel (185,000)

I spent about $5 to fix mine. I bought a small squeeze tube of a NON-SILICONE sealant. Just like you would use in your bathtub or around household windows. Just squeeze it in under the rubber as described above. I had slight fogginess in the rear corners. 2 years after re-sealing my windows it no longer leaks and the cloudiness is gone.

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

I have the same thing, so The sealant under the rubber? Is the fog in the corners a sign of leaking at the glass or under it on the metal? The seal is soft.
Thanks

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

I think the seal shrinks with time and the seal pulls away from the glass. The above solution fixed my problem. The fog in the corners is when moisture gets between the two layers of glass. I was surprised that mine went away, it usually doesn't.

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R