So a few weeks ago I had a catastrophic oil loss on my 1984 euro 300TD turbo after a piece of truck tire punctured my oil cooler. A compression test (on 3 cylinders confirmed that the engine is toast.

I believe I found a potential donor from a 1982 US spec 300TD. I'm going to look at it tomorrow.

I haven't yet seen the "donor" car, but from the sellers description I think it has more rust issues than my 1984 and I'm thinking that I'll do an engine swap.

Now, I consider myself a fair shade tree mechanic and I've done all my own work on all my cars for over 20 years, but I've never pulled an engine that required an engine hoist (air-cooled VWs are easy that way).

So, the question is: what's involved in an engine removal/installation for a w123 wagon? Also, anyone know of compatibility issues from 82 to 84?

The auxilliary question is: what else should I plan to replace/rebuild while the engine is out (e.g. engine mounts, engine shocks, oil cooler lines ...)?

Since your hood opens up vertical, thats the first thing that makes the job easy. Pull the engine and tranny together using an adjustable spreader bar. Cut the drive shaft lose leaving the flex disc on the tranny and then remove the four 13mm bolts that hold the tranny cross member to the body. Be sure to mark the drive shaft in case it gets separated. Thats how I do it anyway Haynes has a good run down. One thing you might do is replace the oil filter housing gasket.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Already got one.

Do I need to pull the transmission? I'm not sure if they are the same gear ratio, but I don't see any reason to replace the one in my 84.

WWJD if he had his 617.95 out of the bay?

here are some good suggestions while it is out

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Beware of MAW disease, once it sets in you're doomed.

The 84 has an engine speed sensor mounted on the back of the engine that feeds the tachometer directly (fed) or EGR box (CA), and there is no tach amp - just a cover for the test plug. Snag the tachometer, tach amp and maybe some wiring and transplant them into the 84 - otherwise you won't have a working tachometer!

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1984 300TD

Actually the 84 was a euro and was not originally equipped with a tach (yes a turbo sold with no tach). I put one in (with a tach amp) from an 84 300D last summer.

Also, as a euro model it has no EGR.

Others with more experience my know better, I've only done two 617s but, I would pull them both as I believe its easer in the long run epically if you leave the cross member on the tranny. (in and out) Your still going too need the spreader bar at 45 degrees. I once had an 82 Euro TD that had a bad engine. You wont have any trouble epically if you have both vehicles. Happy wrenching.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

pulling the trans by itself is almost as much work as pulling the engine and trans. go ahead and pull both and do the transmission swap outside the car. much easier

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)