Yes I just bought one that is very good shape for its year, mechanically and the interior is excellent, I have to fix a couple rust spots, but there are a few things I would like to fix, didn't know if anyone could help!

1. the trip odometer and the odometer do not work (has less than 130,000 miles on it)
2. the instrument panel lights don't come on. (Really a pain at night)
3. the cruise control doesn't work, (its a 1982, 4 speed manual)

I have no idea if the first two are fuses, or need to replace the instrument panel and I'm not sure if the cruise control would be something mechanical or what.

Thanks Aaron.

They are very minor fixes. Try the search function at the top of the page. There is an abundance of information re: your problems. Have fun!

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

240D's are great because they are super simple. You are experiencing the most common three problems out there on a 240D. I never have bothered with repairing odometers, so I can't help you there. On the instrumentation lighting, there is a rheostat (variable resistor knob) on the left center of the dash. It usually gets corroded/oxidized over the years. If you sit and turn it back and forth about 100 times they will probably come on. At that, the lights will probably be dim. You can take the instrument panel out and solder a jumper around the rheostat and enjoy better lights instantly (and this is a good time to change the bulbs as well). Cruise controls notoriously don't work - it could be as simple as the linkage needing adjusting to as complex as needing a new amplifier box (under the dash, around the steering column area).

While you have the panel out, do the odometer repair. Pretty simple. As was said, do some searches - here and at dieselgiant.com and you will find more advice than you need.

I love my 240D ...super simple, solid and dependable (not that the wagon isn't )

My CC is out, too. I removed the amplifier from under the driver's side kickpanel, but haven't gotten around to resoldering all the joints yet. That seems to be the most common reason for failure. Rebuilt units are very $$$$!

enjoy it Aaron!

P.S. nice wagon StaggerLee - I love the color and I'm jealous of your transmission

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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

Wow thanks to everone this site is just plain awesome, I now have working dashlights, a working cruise control (and a stiff neck) resoldered almost every joint i think, but I could see a lot of cracked solder joints, and a working odometer.!!!!

Just one quick note. Now that the trip odometer is working, do not push the reset button while you are moving. I found out the hard way that this can break the pot metal gear on the odometer shaft loose so the numbers will not advance. At least that's what my mechanic told me happened to mine. Easy enough fix though.

Enjoy the new ride. Lots of help available on this site when you need it.

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'81 240D 4-Speed 328K (Daily Driver)
'01 Cadillac SLS 135k (currently up for sale)

Well it is now two weeks later and I have driven the car on several long trips, I have now noticed that although the cruise works, every once in a while (even on a straight flat stretch of road) its like it almost loses it, it will cutcut out for about a half second and then regain its place, and return to normal, it does this about every couple minutes sometimes, any idea what I could replace, I remember reading about replacing some cap. on the board, but I don't know what values I should get to replace them, a pictorial of the right capacitors to replace would be great.

Find the thread either in the archives under cruise control or work your way back on current threads. It was about a week or so ago. The capacitor values can be found on that thread. Plus illistrated placement info.

At currrent knowledge you have to replace all eight capacitors. From my point of view I suspect you might have some electronic knowledge. If so I would cross refference those driver transistors and change them out at the same time. This approach of course has no gaurantee but something in the back of my mind says get the transistors as well. They are common cheap general purpose transistors. If your amp was just falling off speedwise I would feel more confident in just the capacitors but you are experiencing a rapid recovery frequency. If you are uncomforatable about the transistors just doing the capacitors might get you fixed. Go for it and post results.