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#1
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weak a/c, bought a refill kit, should I do it?
My 240D's a/c has been converted to R-134. It's weak so I thought about refilling. Bought a kit that has a low side pressure gauge and fill port. Now after reviewing some threads on this subject, I wonder if I should take it back and buy low side high side gauges from an autoparts store or maybe just take it to a shop. Anyone have an opinion about the various options?
Thanks
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1978 300D 1979 240D |
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#2
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Yeeeees (I always have an opinion,'May not be appropriate)
Chances are without a Parallel Flow Condenser the heat transfer co-efficient
will not keep you happy or cool. Adding refrigerant without the proper gauges is playing roulette... (and what's the old saying about the House always winning?) Spend some time with your old friend the SEARCH function... Personally,I can't stand trying to do something without knowing EXACTLY what's needed and WHY.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 Last edited by compress ignite; 07-13-2008 at 03:07 PM. |
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#3
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I'm just curious: With the availability now of "Freeze 12," why is everyone doing the expensive change-over to R-134?
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Don't Chrome them; polish them |
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#4
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Buy the AutoZone manifold, with low and high side fittings for R134, and buy a better can tap adapter.
Run the A/C and read the pressures and figure out what to do based on that. This also has the plus of you can hook a can of anything up to it and add it at the same time you're measuring.
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1983 Mercedes-Benz 240D Automatic, A/C, Power Sunroof, Power Right Side Mirror 231K Miles FOR SALE MAKE OFFER |
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#5
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Freeze 12 is 134a.
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#6
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Yep, blended refridgerant thats 70% 134a with a few other oddball freons. Low to none fractionation though.. remember, when your charging with a blended refridgerant you have to charge it as a liquid, or else you will only get r134a.
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Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac? As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself. George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..) 1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won. pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt. |
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#7
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It is misleading really to say that Freeze12 is R134a. It has R134a blended with something else {R142b or something} but it does not have the same characteristics as R134a when working in the car.
It works better than R134a, although not as good as R12. But it seems closer to the function of R12 than it does to R134a...... And yes, get and use gauges no matter what you go with.
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT ![]() 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed'81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
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#8
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Its worth sticking with R-12.
Freeze12 is 80% R-134a and 20% R-152a, so it is R-134a. The fact still remains that the mineral oil used with R-12 does not mix well with R-134a and PAG oil should be used. Last edited by ForcedInduction; 07-13-2008 at 11:16 AM. |
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#9
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I agree, if you want decent AC stick to the correct coolant, R-12. Playing around with R-134a and the other stuff is a waste of time unless it never gets hot where you live/drive.
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#10
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It's already converted to R-134 so I was thinking about trying one of those kits that measures low side pressure and allows filling from that side.
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1978 300D 1979 240D |
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#11
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Take your second choice and return that kit in favor of a gauge set and manifold.
Get a 134a can tapper with 1/2" ACME threads, which is what it will have if it is a threaded fitting. (R12 uses 1/4" SAE, which is slightly smaller.) They're only slightly harder to find than the can tapper with the hose and fitting. Be sure to purge the air out of the hoses before you connect them. You don't want to shoot air into the system. |
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#12
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Quote:
![]() I think we all know that R12 works best. But pay attention to the situation of the poster. Doesn't sound like they are gonna be rebuilding an AC system by themselves based on original post, so try and give the most helpful info for their situation. Also, I have 3 W123's, all with working systems. R12 is better than Freeze12, but just a bit. Freeze12 is better than R134a, and by a wider margin than R12 vs Freeze12. So stating across the board that they are the same [Freeze12 vs R134a] is just not accurate info. Period! Doesn't cool the same, pressures aren't the same, and the contents are not identical. Did I mention, WE ALL KNOW R12 WORKS BETTER THAN FREEZE12 OR R134A IN W123'
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT ![]() 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed'81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
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#13
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So, I go out to refill my system. Was told by previous owner it had been converted. Hadn't really worried about that since I bought it; dealing with other issues and just really driving the car sans a/c. So, I start looking for the little blue and red ports and lo and behold they aren't there. Just two black ports. Look for the blue conversion sticker that I thought I'd seen before and it's not there. Just the red r-12 original sticker from the factory. Must have confused this with my late 190D which I KNOW was converted. So I guess I'm going to buy some R-12 off ebay and have a local shop fix it. Good news I guess.
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1978 300D 1979 240D |
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#14
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Find a shop with a refrigerant identifier, Yellow. They can tell you exactly what is in the system, and if it is contaminated. Expect to pay for this information, but you'll only pay for it once because from now on, you will know what is in there.
A shop without an identifier is unlikely to want to touch your car. |
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#15
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There is a product called HC-12, I goggled it and someone got vent temps of 22 degrees. It is compatable with R134a and R12a, you can use ether, PAG, or mineral oil. I think I might try it in my 280CE, R134 aint cutting it in FL where it is 90+ everyday.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
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