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  #1  
Old 07-14-2008, 11:12 PM
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85 300d oil separator tube

Ever since I replaced the head on my 300d, I've been wrestling with an oil leak in the oil pan region where the oil separator drain and the turbo drain. I'm feeling real proud that I got the turbo drain done (what a PITA), but I'm still getting oil leaking, which I'm sure is coming from that oil separator drain in the pan. Don't worry, I'm also certain that the turbo drain was spewing.

First, how far does that oil separator tube seat down on that nipple? And second, my tube has a bracket for mounting to something, but it ain't attached to nothing. It was like that when I removed everything to do the head. What does it attach to, i.e. the block? and can it be done with the manifolds and turbo all in place? Thanks a bunch.

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  #2  
Old 07-14-2008, 11:19 PM
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There is an o-ring on the lower nipple that is the same size as the one on the separator. You can attach the tube clamp by feel.
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2008, 08:23 AM
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How do you mean attach tube clamp by feel? Thanks.
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  #4  
Old 07-15-2008, 10:02 AM
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On each of the nipples, one under the air cleaner, and one on the upper oil pan.

Mine is missing a braket also, and I have no idea where it ties to. I am using the redneck's best friend to hold it in place...baling wire. I am still looking for a pic on where and how to attach it properly.
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #5  
Old 07-15-2008, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRIESL View Post
How do you mean attach tube clamp by feel? Thanks.
I meant that you don't need to remove major engine components so that you can actually see what you are doing. My clamp was also unattached when I bought the car. I was able to find the attach point and install a bolt and self-locking nut (by "feel") with just the air cleaner housing removed.

When I have time, I will look at my car and try to give you a more precise answer as to the clamp location.
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  #6  
Old 07-15-2008, 10:21 AM
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YEAH! Thanks Tango!
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2008, 11:43 AM
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There is a support bracket that attaches to the upper, rear stud of the right side engine carrier (arm) and the extends upward to support the turbo. The oil separator return line should be routed on the engine side of this bracket. There is a hole in the bracket to attach the return line clamp, slightly higher than halfway up the bracket. I installed a bolt (probably M6) with a self-locking nut on the outside of the bracket.

If you are "feeling" for the bracket, it's slightly to the rear of the point where the wastegate attaches to the turbo. The Haynes Manual has a photo of the engine (page 2B) that might be somewhat helpful in it does show the lower portion of the bracket, along with the return line.
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:54 AM
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Thanks Tango! Also, when you look at the drain tube at the oil pan, approx how much distance between the upper oil pan and the tube. i.e. I'm trying to determin if I need to push down on the tube to get it to seat further down on the nipple. Thanks again!
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  #9  
Old 07-15-2008, 04:47 PM
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Mine is about 3/16" above being "bottomed out." With the clamp installed, I don't think there will be much possiblilty of adjustment.
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  #10  
Old 07-15-2008, 08:03 PM
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OOOOhhhhh, mine's way above that. I've pulled on it like a madman. Any suggestions on how to get it to go down further? Thanks.
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  #11  
Old 07-15-2008, 08:09 PM
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is there any chance that when you changed the head, you put new o-rings on these tubes? (hardly like any o-ring I ever saw, more like a grommet if you ask me...)
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #12  
Old 07-15-2008, 08:12 PM
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Well, I just changed the o rings and grommet on the bottom turbo drain tube--wish someone would have mentioned that then would have been a good time to do it instead of now. But I did change the o ring on the oil separator tube connection down there. I just can't seem to get it to seat properly. Is there a trick to it? Maybe the o ring I got is too thick and won't allow the tube to seat?
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2008, 08:15 PM
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what I have read here is it is a REAL bear to install the tube with a new grommet, lube the tube up with some dish detergent, and PUSH PUSH PUSH! there was a write up on it back a few months, try a search for drain tube install or some such...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2008, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
(hardly like any o-ring I ever saw, more like a grommet if you ask me...)
You have your tubes confused. The oil separator return line has a very conventional o-ring at both ends. It's the same size as on the oil dip stick. The grommet is on the turbo oil drain.
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  #15  
Old 07-15-2008, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRIESL View Post
I just can't seem to get it to seat properly. Is there a trick to it?
I don't think so. Mine slid right ove the nipple.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GRIESL View Post
Maybe the o ring I got is too thick and won't allow the tube to seat?
That could be. I believe that a 6 x 10 mm o-ring is the correct size.

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