I recently got a 1980 240D and im in the process of wrenching her up to be a daily driver. I noticed on the drive home that the steering wheel has about 3 inches of play either direction before it starts to actually steer. I had a buddy of mine turn the wheel back and fourth and the rod to the power steering under the hood is engaging properly. So this sounds to me like more linkage work under this car, such a fun job to do alone has anyone fixed this before, any pointers?

The steering on my car only had about an inch of play but I replaced the tierods,centerlink, lbj's and steering damper. The MB guy who did my alignment said often it is in the steering box that much of the slop occurs. You got to got through it and check all components, A little play in each will add up.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

I replaced just about everything in the front end and still had play. The FSM has a procedure on how to tighten up the steerring box. In it they use a special torque measuring tool, but I reckon you could go on feel alone.

As mentioned in the prior post, it's probably worth updating the various tierods and bushings before doing the exercise for optimum results. As you will need an alignment after do the work, it might actually be easier to see if the dealer can do the box adjustment at the same time.

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1982 300TD 210K miles ("The Replacement" aka "The Anvil") - SOLD
1979 300SD 245K miles (never ending project)
2007 Pinarello F3:13
1995 Ducati 916 (SOLD, sniff)
1999 Ducati 900SSie (SOLD)

There was a lot of play in mine also when I bought it. I adjusted the steering box that took care of it.
How to check if the steering box needs adjustment.
Start the car and have someone sit in the drivers seat and rock the wheel back and forth (parking brake on) gently. look down at the Pitman Arm comming out of the Steering Box. If the Steering Wheel is moving but the Pitman Arm is not; your Steering Box is sloppy and needs adjustment.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

thanks guys very helpful. i have already gotten under my car about 30 times with no ramps to adjust and replace bushings on my tranny linkage i was hoping i wouldn't be doing that for the steering deisel911, i will have to check out if the pitman arm is at fault, i know the steering wheel is tight to the steering box so that may be it. i have a love for cars older than me, but at the same time these things need a lot of work sometimes, or it's just getting to me thanks again guys!

Most of my cars had an adjustment screw on the Steering Box.....not sure about the 240D but its easy to look for. The Adjustment Screw usually takes an Allen wrench to adjust and a locking nut to secure it once adjusted.
Soak it with WD-40 or something comparable to break the lock nut loose and back it off enough to screw in the adjustment screw. I usually tighten until there is resistance and the steering wheel does not "return'" on its own while driving then start backing it out 1/2 turn at a time until there is very little play but the steering wheel returns to center after cornering. If the steering box is really worn out.... no amount of adjusting will help! You need two hands like adjusting valves...one working the Allen wrench and the other on a open end wrench to tighten the nut when you have it set.

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FRED

Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini
Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K

I do not think the Pitman Arm I loose I guess my description was not so good. What I ment is if you can move the Steering Wheel back and forth with in the 3" of play and the the Pitman Arm dose not move this indicates the play is inside of the Steering Box and can be re-adjusted. (I am assuming it is tight as Pitman Arms as you often need a puller to pull it off.)
Also I believe you can adjust it with the hood open looking down at the steering box.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

hey guys, i know this as been a while but i tried adjusting the steering last week now that the cancer has been cured and she is inspected and on the road. i tightened the bolt up about a half turn to make it have resistance to no avail, then realized the car was off and nobody was rocking the wheel.. so repeat this with those two and if my box is any good it should work?

I was thinking that you should Back the screw out to tighten the steering, not running the screw in. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here.

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Skip Callaham

2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI (Yes, it's a Diesel!)
2001 Suzuki Esteem (Wife's car)
1980 Mercedes Benz 280 SE Euro
1976 Triumph Spitfire 1500
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500
1971 Mercedes Benz 220D
1965 Triumph Spitfire MKII
1965 Triumph Spitfire MKII

I'm going to have to do this steering adjustment on the wifes 300D VERY soon....so does anyone have any pictures?

It's really cold outside right now....wind is howling....would love to study from the warm side of the walls.

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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

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Here Ya Go!
Some Kind Soul left these instructions on the Internet

57. Get a 19mm closed end wrench and an 8mm Allen wrench to
adjust the gear box. Mercedes adjustment procedure wants you to adjust the box so the torque peaks at the center of rotation. This peak should be roughly twice the torque at either end of movement. I use the “educated guesstimate” method. It works for me.

58. The teeth on the pinion gear are wedge shaped. As the shaft position is adjusted the mesh of the pinion to the rack is varied. You want to set the mesh so there is no play and just a bit of interference. The interference is what makes the friction increase at the center rotation.

59. Setting the friction level is accomplished by adjusting the screw in or out as needed. Rotating the screw CCW makes more friction and conversely CW makes less friction.

60. Here is an excerpt from the MB factory repair manual. This is another way to do it in the car. I prefer to do it on the bench.

61. Rotate and adjust screw until you get twice the torque in the center as compared to the torque at the end of rotation. Lock the nut and re-test. Locking the nut moves the adjustment a little bit. You will have to compensate.

Attached Thumbnails

     

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Speaking of steering. At high speeds in my 83 sd, I get vibration in the steering column when I apply consistant turning pressure. Lets say I'm going 70 around a long gradual turn. I get noticable vibration in column. Any thoughts?

Sounds like a tire or wheel problem.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Good, its got aftermarket "urban" rims, As soon as I burn through these tires then I'm getting the stock rims back on. Maybe that will fix it.

I am about to give this a shot on my 240d. Is the locknut normally threaded (righty tighty/lefty loosey)? I tried breaking it loose yesterday and it wouldn't budge.

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1981 300CD 260k w 60k on new motor
1983 240D 4spd Manual