I recently got a 1980 240D and im in the process of wrenching her up to be a daily driver. I noticed on the drive home that the steering wheel has about 3 inches of play either direction before it starts to actually steer. I had a buddy of mine turn the wheel back and fourth and the rod to the power steering under the hood is engaging properly. So this sounds to me like more linkage work under this car, such a fun job to do alone has anyone fixed this before, any pointers?

The steering on my car only had about an inch of play but I replaced the tierods,centerlink, lbj's and steering damper. The MB guy who did my alignment said often it is in the steering box that much of the slop occurs. You got to got through it and check all components, A little play in each will add up.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

I replaced just about everything in the front end and still had play. The FSM has a procedure on how to tighten up the steerring box. In it they use a special torque measuring tool, but I reckon you could go on feel alone.

As mentioned in the prior post, it's probably worth updating the various tierods and bushings before doing the exercise for optimum results. As you will need an alignment after do the work, it might actually be easier to see if the dealer can do the box adjustment at the same time.

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1982 300TD 210K miles ("The Replacement" aka "The Anvil") - SOLD
1979 300SD 245K miles (never ending project)
2007 Pinarello F3:13
1995 Ducati 916 (SOLD, sniff)
1999 Ducati 900SSie (SOLD)

There was a lot of play in mine also when I bought it. I adjusted the steering box that took care of it.
How to check if the steering box needs adjustment.
Start the car and have someone sit in the drivers seat and rock the wheel back and forth (parking brake on) gently. look down at the Pitman Arm comming out of the Steering Box. If the Steering Wheel is moving but the Pitman Arm is not; your Steering Box is sloppy and needs adjustment.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

thanks guys very helpful. i have already gotten under my car about 30 times with no ramps to adjust and replace bushings on my tranny linkage i was hoping i wouldn't be doing that for the steering deisel911, i will have to check out if the pitman arm is at fault, i know the steering wheel is tight to the steering box so that may be it. i have a love for cars older than me, but at the same time these things need a lot of work sometimes, or it's just getting to me thanks again guys!

Most of my cars had an adjustment screw on the Steering Box.....not sure about the 240D but its easy to look for. The Adjustment Screw usually takes an Allen wrench to adjust and a locking nut to secure it once adjusted.
Soak it with WD-40 or something comparable to break the lock nut loose and back it off enough to screw in the adjustment screw. I usually tighten until there is resistance and the steering wheel does not "return'" on its own while driving then start backing it out 1/2 turn at a time until there is very little play but the steering wheel returns to center after cornering. If the steering box is really worn out.... no amount of adjusting will help! You need two hands like adjusting valves...one working the Allen wrench and the other on a open end wrench to tighten the nut when you have it set.

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FRED

Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini
Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K

I do not think the Pitman Arm I loose I guess my description was not so good. What I ment is if you can move the Steering Wheel back and forth with in the 3" of play and the the Pitman Arm dose not move this indicates the play is inside of the Steering Box and can be re-adjusted. (I am assuming it is tight as Pitman Arms as you often need a puller to pull it off.)
Also I believe you can adjust it with the hood open looking down at the steering box.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

hey guys, i know this as been a while but i tried adjusting the steering last week now that the cancer has been cured and she is inspected and on the road. i tightened the bolt up about a half turn to make it have resistance to no avail, then realized the car was off and nobody was rocking the wheel.. so repeat this with those two and if my box is any good it should work?

I was thinking that you should Back the screw out to tighten the steering, not running the screw in. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here.

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Skip Callaham

2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI (Yes, it's a Diesel!)
2001 Suzuki Esteem (Wife's car)
1980 Mercedes Benz 280 SE Euro
1976 Triumph Spitfire 1500
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500
1971 Mercedes Benz 220D
1965 Triumph Spitfire MKII
1965 Triumph Spitfire MKII

You're correct, the screw should be turned counter-clockwise. Don't overdo it or you'll bind the steering and the car won't center itself anymore.

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

I need to do this on the 280 SE I just got also. I couldn't see the steering box from the top due to that massive intake manifold. Is the adjustment on the top of the steering box or could it be on the side? I haven't had a chance to crawl under there yet.
That intake manifold is the largest I think I've ever seen on a car!!

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Skip Callaham

2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI (Yes, it's a Diesel!)
2001 Suzuki Esteem (Wife's car)
1980 Mercedes Benz 280 SE Euro
1976 Triumph Spitfire 1500
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500
1971 Mercedes Benz 220D
1965 Triumph Spitfire MKII
1965 Triumph Spitfire MKII

AHHH! THANK YOU. I knew tightening the screw sounded too easy for working on a Mercedes and that explains why the play went from 3 inches to about 6 I'll try out doing it the right way and check back in tomorrow with you guys. Robert, sounds like you're going to have some fun there with your intake... luckily all that junk is on the other side of my engine . Definitly hit that bolt with some PB Blaster before you pull your back like I did .

I just backed the screw out about 1/4" worth of threads a couple weeks ago and WOW what a difference. The steering feels nice and tight (not hard to turn though) and there is NO play. My procedure was to jack the car up and put the front on jackstands. Then I just backed the screw out until I could turn the steering wheel and directly control the front wheels with no play whatsoever. It only takes a couple of minutes ands it makes such a huge difference in the car. A note though: Only do this after you have confirmed that the rest of the steering gear is in good order. I just replaced all 3 tie rods, idler arm, my ball joints and had an alignment so I knew that there was no play there. I recommend this to all w123 owners.

Thanks for the tips I'll report back when I get home from school later on today sounds like it should work out then, It's such a pain in the ass driving out here with all these back roads with about 6 inches of play in the steering

So got home yesterday and took a second stab.. yeah it's a loosen to tighten kinda deal, go figure tightening to tighten something is too easy on a diesel thanks for helping me out there Chad and Robert. Hopefully soon when I get my 240D painted (from off white puke and bondo to anthracite grey) I'll get some eye candy up on my gallery for everyone.