Which oil to use? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

bgkast · #16 08-06-2008, 02:55 PM

Woo!!! Another oil thread

winmutt · #17 08-06-2008, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bnzpwr

so...

It seems like the majority of you recommend that i use 15w-40. How important is it that it has a Cx rating on the bottle? To be honest iv never noticed it so it may be hiding in plain sight.

I live in So cal btw

Soot suspension among others. 15w40 or 5w40. I like the RotellaT 5w40 its cheaper than Mobil1 and lets me change my oil at frequencies I can afford

rocky raccoon · #18 08-06-2008, 05:03 PM

Nothing like a good oil thread to stir the blood.

AMSOIL 15W-40. Using anything else will cause your engine to destroy itself within the next 1000 miles.

winmutt · #19 08-06-2008, 05:16 PM

I use aged blood from the poor souls of those fallen to past oil discussions. Highly viscous.

wenzee · #20 08-06-2008, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

I sincerely doubt that SAE 30 is Cx rated. If it isn't it wont like it for long.

Yes, Rotella straight 30 weight is rated for diesel service.

herring · #21 08-06-2008, 06:12 PM

I put Rotella 15w40 in my car this spring, and put it in my Rodeo, too (on recommendation of other Rodeo owners, to combat varnish buildup). On the Rodeo, it's made for slightly harder starts and (seems to me) lower oil pressure.

Given that diesels are harder to start in cold weather, I think I'd prefer NOT to have a 15w oil in there for the winter months. I would like to find a 10w40 or 5w40 dino oil that's got an acceptable detergent package for a diesel (or an additive that provides the needed protection).

Any tips on what I could use would be welcome.

Scott98 · #22 08-06-2008, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herring

I put Rotella 15w40 in my car this spring, and put it in my Rodeo, too (on recommendation of other Rodeo owners, to combat varnish buildup). On the Rodeo, it's made for slightly harder starts and (seems to me) lower oil pressure.

Given that diesels are harder to start in cold weather, I think I'd prefer NOT to have a 15w oil in there for the winter months. I would like to find a 10w40 or 5w40 dino oil that's got an acceptable detergent package for a diesel (or an additive that provides the needed protection).

Any tips on what I could use would be welcome.

A synthetic like redline will flow better in the winter.

Scott

herring · #23 08-06-2008, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott98

A synthetic like redline will flow better in the winter.

Yes I bet it will. My my experience with the Rodeo was that putting synthetic in resulted in a lot of leaking (and a bit of burning oil, too). Buttercup already drips a bit here and there and I'd rather not buy all those quarts of synthetic just to dribble all over the parking lot all winter or drain it all out and put dino in.

Scott98 · #24 08-06-2008, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herring

Yes I bet it will. My my experience with the Rodeo was that putting synthetic in resulted in a lot of leaking (and a bit of burning oil, too). Buttercup already drips a bit here and there and I'd rather not buy all those quarts of synthetic just to dribble all over the parking lot all winter or drain it all out and put dino in.

Start fixing those leaks and get some good oil in there!

Have you actually had cold starting problems? Maybe you just need a valve adjustment and verification that all glow plugs are working. How about a block heater?

Scott

Hatterasguy · #25 08-06-2008, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott98

I would look for somthing that has the ZDDP additive package. Our engines are flat-tappet engines and oil without this package accelerates camshaft wear. I am currently switching all of my vehicles over to Redline because of this.

Scott

Good point, thats why I switched to Amsoil 15w40, Redline is probably a bit better though.

20w50 is to thick unless its for a racing engine. Go with something that has a 40 as the second number.

As far as when to change it, 617's put a lot of soot in the oil. You really shouldn't go much beyond 5k no matter what oil you use.

Rotella 5w40 is a great oil for the money, I used it in my 300SD.

herring · #26 08-06-2008, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott98

Start fixing those leaks and get some good oil in there!

Next in priority is rust on the rear fenders. I want "good" oil, just not synthetic.

Quote:

Have you actually had cold starting problems? Maybe you just need a valve adjustment and verification that all glow plugs are working. How about a block heater?

Valves were adjusted just after I bought it in January. It is possible I was one glow plug down, all are working now. Have a block heater, but due to living in an urban area it's not always convenient to plug it in.

Scott98 · #27 08-06-2008, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

Good point, thats why I switched to Amsoil 15w40, Redline is probably a bit better though.

Not many people are aware of this. It wasn't a problem before because ZDDP was already in the oil. Also, most people don't drive cars with flat tappet engines. I use Redline in all my gearboxes too. I even have it in my lawnmower

. Nothing wrong with Amsoil either.

Scott

Hatterasguy · #28 08-06-2008, 07:30 PM

One of the members on here with a go fast boat told me about it originaly. He found out about it after losing 3 cams. Than I started asking around and its been causing havic with pumped up American engines, and classic cars. Lots of ruined cams, bearings, and valve trains.

Use a modern 5w40 ESP oil in your Gullwing and you will be rebuilding the engine within a few oil changes.

If you have a MB diesel older than a CDI, stay away from the new oils.

bustedbenz · #29 08-06-2008, 10:07 PM

I use Rotella 15w40 dinosaur oil, changed every 5,000 miles, all four seasons.

Gurkha · #30 08-06-2008, 11:54 PM

Forget all this, go to BITOG at www.bobistheoilguy.com and check the HDEO section, see what the end users report including various UOA and then come to a intelligent decision.