so I recently replaced my nozzles with monarks, at first three were leaking from the top of injector to the lower of the injector threads, not the injector to head threads. I removed them recleaned and replaced two kept leaking I pulled them cleaned and swapped lower fittings on them but kept the lowers relative to thier place in the head. One still leaked, pulled a not leaker and the leaker again swapped the lowers keeping them relative. The same one continues to leak through the threads. I plan on going to the junk yard to find an injector that doesn't leak, good plan? Input? Critique?

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'79 240D
'79 300SD

those that are missed:
'80 300TD bandit
'76 300D cleta jill

You are supposed to "lap" the two halves if they dont fit tight enough to seal.

Pretty simple, get very fine wet/dry paper and a perfectly flat stone or glass work surface. Sand the mating surfaces. Clean them SUPER good before resembling, pop test, adj, test again and install with new heat sheild.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Say what!? which surfaces? Not the threads... Right? Also I didn't pop test them.. Don't have a tester.. I'll buy or make one soon.. But please describe to me again in more detail the procedure you suggest?

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'79 240D
'79 300SD

those that are missed:
'80 300TD bandit
'76 300D cleta jill

Take the inj body apart. Set the guts aside. Sand each half of the inj body in circular motion to make the seam between each perfectly flat again so that when you put the two halves back together they will seal.

Or look up "lapped surfaces", "lapping" on google, etc.

PS: your plywood workbench top or the concrete garage floor is NOT a flat enough surface to work upon.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

The flat surfaces. One flat surface on each side of the of that center plate and the flat surface on the bottom of the upper 1/2 of the injector.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Don't even THINK about touching these faces with even 1200 abrasive paper let alone 600! These are lapped to a Ra 0.5µm flat and flawless mirror finish on special grooved cast iron lapping plate with a 2 micron diamond lapping paste. The faces must 'Wring' together to hold 140 bar without internal or external leaks. Dirt can be removed by rubbing on paper soaked in silver polish on plate glass.

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Beagle

Ah, At last! The voice of reason!

I was wondering when someone was going to put this 'Sand-paper' rubbish to bed!

Yup, Those are Precision ground/lapped parts. Sand them with wet/dry 600 or even 1200 grit, and they are Scrap!--

--IF you have done this and 'got-away' with it, You're bloody lucky!

When doing nozzle-changes, just clean these mating-faces well with cloth soaked in solvents. Nothing more--Finish up by washing Everything in FILTERED Diesel Before assembling -WET- with the filtered fuel....

When everything is Spotless clean, re-assemble and tighten by hand. Then slacken half a turn, and re-tighten. Do this slackening/tightening by hand three or four times Before finally tightening to the right tightness....

IF everything is Properly clean, and you have no damage to any sealing-surfaces (and why should you, as they have always been tight inside the injector until you took them out...)--

--Then you'll have no leaks either internally to the leak-off OR through the threads....

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

In the Fuel Injection shop I worked in (5 years) when used 500 grit lapping compound for our hand lapping plates and our Automatic Lapping Plate machine 99.9% of our lapping of Fuel Injection Pump Parts and Injector part was done with 500 grit.

We used 1200 grit for our nozzle re-regrinding operation to lap the Injector Pintel seats and on sticky Injector Pintels and Plunger and Barrels (IP Elements).

That shop was in business for 30 years until the owner died. I can't imagine that in all that time he was using the wrong grit lapping compound!

I would prefer not to use the plate of Glass as a Lapping Plate but so far I have always been out bid on Ebay for a real lapping plate.
Also the lapping plates do not have to be grooved and some plates have a grooved side and a flat side; both can be used.

I have lapped 3 (10 Mercedes injectors and 6 Volvo injectors) sets of injectors on the Glass Plate and none of them have leaked.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Exactly.
By fine wet/dry paper I would think 600grit or less.
I have been using a plate of glass with 600 grit lapping compound that rock shops (Lapidry?) folks use to lap/tumble/smooth rocks. You can lap a whole set of injectors with 1/4 teaspoon or less and some light oil like sewing machine/gun oil/3 in one oil. Water is OK to.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

By the way the time peroiod I am talking about is aprox. 1975-1980.

The company bought the Nozzle regrinding equipment ready made so this tells me that at the time there must have been a market for that type of equipment. Meaning that someone besides the shop I worked in was re-grinding Nozzles.

Also, if the way we did things at that shop did not work we would have had a lot of warranties and lost business and that did not happen.

If 500 mesh is = to 500 grit; we used that only on flat surfaces. When you spoke of the Max size range of grit of the lapping compound; you can pay more and get 500grit or other sized compound that is not contaminated with other size grits.

If your shop has a better equipment and dose a better job; thats all to the good.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel