A rebuild would be in order for a turbo engine- but the NA version last quite a bit longer without the added stress is the common and mechanical thought. Of course that is for the fleet average- not individual engine. Take the advice of doing the compression test and go from there.

2 to 3grand with machine work and parts if you do it yourself. A set of pistons is $1000 alone.

__________________
1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

Well, before you go tearing the engine apart, you might consider replacing all the fuel filters, doing a diesel purge, and do a few fillups on Diesel and compare the performance difference....

__________________
'84 190d 2.2 - Silver
Converted to 5-Speed
'84 190d 2.2 - Blue
Factory 5-Speed

'76 300D (W115)
Sold, found again in less auspicious circumstances

Valve lash. Check Dieselgiant.com for a how to. The most you'll get from a compression test you do before you check valve clearance is:

Step 1: Adjust valve clearance.
Step 2: Check compression
Step 3: If compression still low, open checkbook.

Make sure your tranny shifts in the appropriate direction at the appropriate times, whatever they are.

I don't see a significant performance impact when I switch over to WVO.

The VO theoretical 'camp' I adhere to (2 tank, switch over when engine is hot, purge at shutdown, filter, dewater, preheat to 160+F) is best defined by the crowd at frybrid.com.

Check valve clearances, Injection pump timing and chain stretch, try to find where the prospective buyer had the compression test done and try to get the numbers.

Check and clean the tank filter, run some injector cleaner through the pump and injectors as per instructions in the archives. Or have the injectors checked out. Change the fuel filters.

The above are normal maintenance items on a high milage diesel. If vegatable oil has been used some things like the fuel system and injector condition are more prone to developing problems. . It may or may not be the original engine. It also could have been rebuilt at sometime. There are no short cuts particularily in your case. That is just my opinion though.

All the information to do all of the above exists in the archives. Most are labour rather than parts cost. It could also be a combination of any of the above causing the low power. If I were a betting guy the injectors or fuel filters crudded up would be high on my list. This does not mean they are.

or German Potomac

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

Question is, are you sure its never been rebuilt before or swapped at 450k? Thats really high and not many of them make it that far.....

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Well, nobody wants to buy this car. I've put it up for sale a few different times and nobody, after seeing the mileage wants to get into it. I'll just drive it til it doesn't go anymore. I guess I'll start with fuel filter changes and diesel purge (whatever that is). I'm obviously a noob with diesels, but don't mind playing around with this car til it runs right or dies. Thanks for all the input, everyone, and I'll begin my search on this and other sites to guide me through all suggested maintenance and tests.

Call Metric Motor's, I'd guess $5k.

Do a compression test before throwing a lot of money at it.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

One thing I forgot to mention the other day. Your linkage to the injection pump is advancing the lever to it's stop? Many times they develop conditions where they do not advance the linkage properly from the pedal.

I have absolutely no idea. Thanks for the input, but I really don't know what that means. If there's any way I could do it myself, I would, but I really don't know much about my car.

1. Open the hood, with motor off.
2. Have someone step on the accelerator up and down.
3. Everything moving to the left of the valve cover is the throttle linkage.
4. Open can of elbow grease and set of small metric wrenches. Adjust the linkage from step 3. to ensure full travel of the srprung lever at the end of the linkage.
5. Sweep away the debris of your illusions
6. Order & read John Muir's How to keep your VW alive for the compleate idiot
for mechanical background and advise on pre-purchase inspection & test drive.
7. Roll up your sleeves & buy some tools if 1-6 were in any way entertaining or edifying.