Thanks for bumping this thread. I agree, vitally important. One point that may/may not have been mentioned is to make sure there is oil in the 60X- pump during initial start-up.

This can be accomplished with a shop-engineered apparatus that has a small (1/2 pint or so) reservoir and a small diameter tube attached to the intake port on top of the pump (before you connect the permanent line/compression nut). That way when you turn the engine over (I didn't even crank my engine) the pump sucks oil into its own chamber to give a lifespan-enhancing dose of oil before the oil gallery gets it up there during cranking and normal operation.

Someone correct me if I am wrong on this, but so far so good for my Pierburg OEM.

vacum pump milage
 

Well im doing some proactive maintence to my 93 300d, i decided to change my pump before a failure. My pump is origional and never changed, it has 313,000 miles on it and i have put half of them on. My pump is date coded 1993. just thought id share my milage on the pump.

vacum pump
 

Hi all together,


I´m new in this forum.
I live in germany. I found this forum by random.


(Following text is translated by google,´cause my englsih is not so good)



Google---------------


I am very impressed by all the helpful comments.

I have an OM 602 installed in my camper. I have the same problem with the vacuum pump.


Parts have broken out and hopefully are down by the oil in the pan. I found one part in the drain channel. Tomorrow I will try to fish it out with a strong magnet.

The "Crankshaft Vacuum Pump Gear Injection Pump Timing Device" is also damaged. It has radial 1mm grooves in the tread.

http://ul.to/f/kc6vgj

If I exchange this device, what do I need to look for (chain)?


Regards ... Frank

For the timing chain you can rotate the engine in the normal direction it runs in and visually inspect the links, pins and timing gear teeth for damage. After that you can follow the factor recommendations and check the timing chain stretch.

My 300D has a different engine. On mine behind the timer there is an intermediate shaft bearing that wears and when the wear creates too much endplay it can ruin even a new vacuum pump. I attached a pic of the bushing. I don't know if your newer engine has the same issues.

In the past they used bearings with plastic cages on the vacuum pumps and found that when the plastic cage fell apart it ruined the vacuum pump. They went to steel cages and that cured that problem.
For some Rason on another generation of engines they started off with bearings with a plastic cage again with the same results. And again, changed to steel cages. Which engines that happened to, I don't know.

In any event when you hear nose up front it is time to see if it is coming from the vacuum pump.

Here is an old thread with a similar issue.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/231260-om603-vacuum-pump-explosion-bearing-intact-injection-pump-timing-device-wrecked.html

E300D engine: "Verify what engine you have as older vacuum pumps had bearings that would drop the balls into oil pan and after cutting via oil pump strainer - do a serious damage to the engine.
The run on the timing device is separate part, but might be hard to buy separately.
Dealing with those things on aged car often makes no economical sense, so if you can't DIY, consider how much money you want to put in that car.
How about mileage and picture?"

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/e300d-1996-engine-vacuum-pump-failure.2556785/

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/1995-e300d-vacuum-pump-failure-oil-leak.2846266/

Benzeworld used to be another good source of info.

If you buy a new vacuum pump the bearing issue should be corrected; check the numbers anyway. If you get a used one, I think you will have to find out what numbers have the less prone to failure bearing.

Sorry, one more blast from the past quotation of a good post…

The FSM says the basket is there so the engine can be turned easier. I kind of get that. If you wish to turn the engine over by hand with the IP removed, this would keep the timing device gear in place good enough that it would engage with the timing chain and keep everything working in time.

If all I’m doing is locking the IP in place with the pin, removing tension on the TC, removing the IP, and then installing it back, not much could slip. Is the timing device somehow indexed to the IP and chain that it matters? It seems that as long as the crank and cam aren’t moved, and the IP is locked, how can timing get messed up?

Is there a requirement to crank the engine for some reason that I’m missing? My plan is merely remove, replace seals, reinstall.

Thanks!

This may be correct. Again, I haven't touched these items in 15 years, so take this all with a grain of salt! And yes, you DEFINITELY do not want to rotate anything without the assembly basket in place.

The timing device is not indexed to the IP. It's a splined shaft. Worst case you end up having to adjust the IP timing quite a bit, and if it exceeds adjustment limits, then you must pull the IP and re-install 1 spline over and repeat.

After re-installing the IP and tensioner, and removing the lock, you rotate 2x and check the reading at the balancer when the lock engages to verify timing is still at 14-15° ATDC. If not, measure / adjust / repeat.

Ok that makes sense. Thanks again!!