Yea, but I thought that was because of the boot they were using....

Free advice (worth what you paid for it). You are always better off rebuilding what you have - as long as you haven't run for any length of time with a torn boot. Reason being these joints don't wear much in normal service, so you know you have a quality joint to start out with. If you buy rebuilt, you know nothing about the core and if you buy new from other than MB, you don't really know much about the quality.

I was scoping out PNP today and located at least 6 good axles. boots good shape not cracked the least. It`s 50% off this weekend, so $20.00 plus the core chg. not bad price. at least these wouldn`t be China made.

when I pull them I mark which side they came off of.

Charlie

If you did it before the boots tore it would probably work. But once they tear dirt and up here sand get in them and you can reboot them all you want, its only a matter of time before they fail.

I was looking at the below site; wich size Boots are the one for 123s?
The FB3000 or the FB3001?
http://www.toolstoragewarehouse.com/search.aspx?find=flexx+boots

A used (the more expensive one) Flexx Boot Gun is being Ebayed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ASTORIA-2000-RAPID-FLEXX-BOOT-GUN-MODEL-FB-5000-CASE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33719QQihZ007QQitemZ170256022936QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Thanks for broadcasting that one.......;);););)
I was all over it already.

{I know you were being helpful}:)

I think both of those boots will work. Dan talked to an Astoria guy and he used the FB3000 on his personal Mercedes. I've also read where somebody used the FB3001.

No one has bid on it yet. Corona is about 15 miles from where I live.
Thanks for the info on the boots.
Another question did the Astoria guy happen to say if the truck boot was made of thicker material? But, I would assume his pick of the FB3000 was best as he should know the most about it and cost would not have been a factor for him.

[quote=JimmyL;1950348]can anybody figure out how this thing works??

http://www.neweggmall.com/Product/2001837930/product.html?quantity=1

quote]

The above tool works the sam as the Dorman 614-050 Uni-Fit in page 2 of the Dorman PDF:
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/OESolutions2006/055-066CVJointBootsandAccessories.pdf

But in the case of the neweggmall tool the part is made of metal; On the Dorman tool it appears to be made of plastic.
I believe it keeps the boot from having to ride on the cone and causing the boot to rip due to friction.

I have an experiment for someone if they willing to try it.
The problem with the ATF funnel even with a compatible boot is the possibility of the boot being torn due to friction between the Boot and the ATF funnel.

Try cutting a suitable length (leave enough extra longer than the boot so that you can roll it and have something to pull on) of Panty Hoes leg and open at both ends.
Slide the Hoes over the funnel; slide the Boot over the funnel and Panty Hoes leg far enough so that some of it sticks out of the end you will not pull on.

Put the Put the whole thing over the Axle end and roll up the Panty Hoes end and pull.
The Boot should follow along with the Panty Hoes as you pull and the Hoes should slide on the funnel and keep the Boot from grabbing the Funnel.

I do not have any Axles that need rebooting or even an old one to try this on.

Like I said, I had no trouble with this method using gear oil. That stuff is slick as snot. You got to wear gloves though or else you wont get a grip on the boot.

I looked at how that manual installation tool the JimmyL posted worked and similarity of the Dorman Tool manual tool and wondered what the thong shaped part was for to be used with the plastic cone. I decided that it kept friction from acting on the boot.
Next I wondered what could you do with the ATF funnel that would do the same thing without lubrication and I came up with the Panty Hoes idea.
I hope someone will try it; just to see if it works. If not they can use the Gear Lube.
The Boots on my rebuilt Axles put on about 1 year ago are OK so I won't have a chance to test the idea myself for a long time.

I got the Astoria 2000 Flexx boot air tool and am waiting for it to ship.
Time to learn how to rebuild axles.........:D

I remember seeing a post either in this forum or somewhere in google world of this fella doing the boot job. I don't think he used any tools. Just flipped the boot inside out, greased it and pulled it in and flipped it again inside in.

not bad,, but not the greatest, You can tear the boot.

If you have a press. angle grinder, and channel locks the job goes by fast.

I should start doing some articles for the stuff Ive done these cars:p