Refer to the thread title. Devote special attention to the word "manual."

Use a button or momentary toggle switch.

One of my cars came with a pull cable (like a choke cable) that was installed under the dash, and ran to the STOP lever area. A small hole had been drilled in the stop lever, and the cable run through the hole and fastened.

When you needed to stop the car, you pulled the cable handle and remotely pulled the STOP lever. It worked fine.

However, the next owner got the vacuum stop fixed and so I removed the cable.

For something of a junker, you can go this route and save on the necessary vaccum parts. Isn't the vacuum stop mechanism the part on the injection pump where if you don't replace it properly, the engine goes to full revs and blows up?

Sometimes a simple fix is the best value, in the context of the particular car involved and the economics of the situation.

Ken 300D

I bet it wouldn't blow up before you could vice grip the fuel line.

I found an electric-triggered vacuum valve on ebay. Thanks for the help.

They still sell Generic Manual Choke Cables with a plastic Knob on them. Hooking it to the manual shutoff lever would not be difficult but you would need to make a bracket/frame to hold the outer portion of the cable to keep it from moving. And you need something on the inside to mount the Cable also.

A manual shutoff inside would be handy to have if other less mechanically inclined people drive your car. If you Vacuum Shutoff malfunctions they may not remember or be able to lift the hood, locate the Manual Shutoff and shut the engine off.

Boy, what a tough crowd. Whether a person has the ingrained "anti-european" attitude or not, we all start out NOT knowing many things about these cars and their systems. Let' face it, German engineering is different - for better or for worse, and there is a learning curve. We all pretty much have to start at the bottom of that curve, so let's not be too hard on others who are just getting started - we were all there once too.

Lets not be too quick to pre-judge, because, as this thread illustrates, a lot of the time that premature judgement is based on our own pre-concieved notions that may or may not be correct...

I have the shifter knob from a peterbuilt w/a 16 speed tranny w/ 2 vac switches on it.



big trucks use air pressure for a lot of stuff. 1/2 of the switches on the dash are prolly for air. meaning a pneumatic toggle switch. you could prolly get one @ any truck shop. maybe a bad one(leaker) would work fine on vac vs. pressure.

I have the shifter knob from a peterbuilt w/a 16 speed tranny w/ 2 air switches on it.
looks cool, but dont mess w/ them switches while driving.

The engine can run for quite some time with the fuel supply cut off.

Stick with the original design and fix it when it breaks.


It's also fun to watch the expression on the face of my American gear head friends when I tell them I've fixed an engine oil leak at the ignition switch!

This has been debated and tested here before. It can't. Once the fuel line is clamped the pump can't suck any more fuel.

I think he means, it'll start burning oil, and now you've got unmetered fuel coming in. Then it explodes.

That is false. I HAVE done it and the engine will idle for at least 30 seconds with fuel flow to the lift pump completely blocked.

Thank you. If anyone thinks I'm so stupid, that I need to buy a new car, they may want to review the build I linked to for my truck. It took a couple of days to locate an electrical over vacuum switch that I knew would work. All Mercedes hoses and wiring were gone when I bought the engine.

I'm a master auto-body mechanic, and I'm now training to be a machinist.

Roy

30 seconds at idle equates to what at WOT, though?
Next time I replace my feed line, I'll have to check it out.

Of course, there's always the phone book over the turbo intake method too.