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#1
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Vaccuum thingy question?
See photos below. I'm looking at troubleshooting a rough transmission shift. The levers seem in good shape though they are probably original so will replace. I noticed that one line from the lever assembly goes over to this valve which I wasn't able to identify in the sticky-posted vac diagrams.
What is it? Is it a problem/leak that there seem to be no line going out the other side. It is simply supposed to go to the EGR valve? I have no line on that, and would that account for enough vac lost for rough shifting? Thanks, Chuck ![]() ![]()
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar 1999 E300D, black, 160k miles, Greasecar 2010 Honda Insight Hybrid http://www.chuckwyatt.com http://www.wordimpressive.com |
#2
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I replace the ones (2/3 Way Valves) on my car to the tune of over $40. Later on; on this Forum I learned that those valves are there to control the EGR system. Meaning that except for being a possible source of a vacuum leak they do not effect the transmission.
This is not a recommendation but people disconnect their EGR vacuum supply and remove those valves. As for checking the Vacuum part of the transmission control there are quite a few Threads on that subject and also harsh shifting. The Vacuum part involves the white plastic valve on top of the rear of the Fuel Injection Pump and the Vacuum Modulator on the side of the transmission it self. Internal wear inside of the transmission can also cause harsh shifting. I my case I had 2-3 harsh shifting and I put in some Lucas transmission sealer/conditioner when I did the ATF/Filter change. This helped about 85%.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 08-31-2008 at 11:08 AM. |
#3
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The "thingy" is a temperature vacuum switch for the EGR and you can ignore it.
However, one of the three lines that lead into the black plug on the black box is the supply vacuum. You should pull this line and put a short piece of hose on the line and then plug the line. Your transmission issues are likely caused by some leaks in the switches in the black box..........and you're not using the switches anyway because you've got no vacuum to the EGR. Also, for future posts, kindly post the year and model of the vehicle. I've made the assumption from the photos that it's the '82 in your sig. If this is not the situation, none of my advice applies. |
#4
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It is a thermo vacuum switch and it should be connected to the EGR valve. It delay es the EGR function till the engine comes up to temperature. I block my EGR valve and the vacuum switches on top of the valve cover. After all these years the valves leak. Block the plastic line in the Y connector that is uppermost at the injection pump, the lower Y connector is just a vent and it goes in under the dash.
Hope this helps Robert |
#5
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Sorry, yes, 82 MB W123. I think I see what you mean, Brian... that vac line in the upper right hand corner of the black plug is just "hanging out in the wind" so to speak, right?
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar 1999 E300D, black, 160k miles, Greasecar 2010 Honda Insight Hybrid http://www.chuckwyatt.com http://www.wordimpressive.com |
#6
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Quote:
Start the engine. Pull all the vacuum lines from the plug. Feel each one for suction (vacuum). Only one of them will have it. Add a short piece of hose, if necessary, and plug that line. The others are irrelevant. |
#7
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So let me get this straight...
The 2/3 valves which connect on the top of the valve cover have three lines. The lines are vacuum, vent (open to atmosphere) and vacuum to the EGR, right? The 2/3 "switchover" valves take constant engine vacuum, and either allow it to be presented to the thermo valve and ultimately the EGR for actuation, or else force it to vent to the atmosphere by a leak. Now, I can understand the route for vacuum via this diagram, on post 31: EGR Delete/Remove I can see that vacuum comes in and goes to the EGR, but just to be sure Im accurate, there is also an "atmospheric" vent line which connects to other vents via some lines connected to the IP? So the IP gets some vacuum and has a line which is open to the atmosphere? It seems that all "vent" lines share a common open to the atmosphere final line. Is that correct? Thanks!
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) Last edited by JHZR2; 11-01-2009 at 07:51 PM. |
#8
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Quote:
The answers depend on the vehicle. |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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bump
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
#11
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Sorry, 617.952 would be the engine in question. I assume it is similar for a federal OM616?
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
#12
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As TF mentioned above for the 617.952. The 616 is not the same. That valve will operate the modulator on many 616 versions and it cannot be disconnected. This would typically be engines without the Bowden cable.
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#13
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So it is "vented", i.e. sucking in atmospheric air then...
I noted it shares the ultimate vent tube with some other things coming off the IP, is that accurate?
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (116k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 2008 ML320 CDI (199k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k) |
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