I have started the rebuild of the front end on my 83 300sd.
Which way does the ball joint press out of the arm?

also, I have not pad under the spring, should there be one?

Thanks
Doug

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

After you have the spindle out, the ball joint comes out through the top. Use a big socket or piece of pipe from the bottom and a large hammer - a few good whacks and its out.

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tgingrich
'83 300TD 282k
'83 300D 239k
'82 300SD 204k
DFW

That is awfully optimistic. I would get a press and do it right. I used the autozone rental.

There should be a pad at the top of the sprint not the bottom. If you take the springs out (ONLY USE A KLANN OR KLANN CLONE TO REMOVE THE FRONT SPRINGS) I would do the LCA bearing and strutrod->LCA bushings. Maybe also the strutrod mounts as well.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

I have a 20 ton press, so it pushes up from the bottom.
I am changing the LCA bushings, and the bushing for the guide rod as well.
there is a cover over the top of the spring, I assume that is the pad,

What bolt holds the bottom of the shock? 10MM 12 pt.?
got to buy that socket.

Also what is the part that shields the rotor from the water when driving called? Need a new one of those also.

thanks

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

Backing plate? That is the pad. I dont think you can get a 20ton press in there right.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

The backing plate, is bolted on behind the rotor, it is metal, See if I can get a photo, I can not find any listing. Maybe I do not need it?

Can I place the arm in the press and push the ball joint out? I see where there will be issues pressing the new one back in. I will have to find a BJ press somewhere.

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83 300SD Dark Silver Dark brown inside

I am sure its easy to press out. Backing plate not that important but does help with cooling...

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

It's possible to knock the ball joint out of the steering knuckle with a BFH rather than a press, but be careful not to damage the edge of the hole. This problem is avoided with a press.

The 'proper' way to seat the new ball joint is with the MB-designed ball joint press. This tool is quite expensive, so an economical alternative is to pay your local indy (who should have the tool) a few bucks to do it. Some members of this forum have successfully done it with the Autozone ball joint press, but I tried with a good quality K-D Tools ball joint press and couldn't make it work. You have to press on the outer edge of the ball joint (NOT the center line), and there's precious little clearance in the steering knuckle.

The LCA bushings can be a bear to R/R. Assuming you have the 3-piece bushing, you can try knocking the end pieces off with a hammer and chisel, then pressing out the center piece. If you can't get them off by hand, try an air hammer. Alternatively, you can saw/grind them off, taking care not to damage the LCA itself. When installing the new end pieces, you must apply pressure to BOTH the center and edge simultaneously; otherwise the metal will bend and the bushing will not properly seat. The special MB tool for this task applies pressure at both points, but you can gerry rig a suitable tool with a good assortment of pipes, mandrels, and large washers.

If you haven't already bought your replacement parts, you may want to consider buying the new LCA bushings from a dealer. Aftermarket bushings (even Lemforder, the OEM supplier) tend to use softer metal.

Winmutt's admonition to use only a Klann-style compressor to remove the front springs is in ALL CAPS for a reason. When compressed, these springs store a tremendous amount of energy. An uncontrolled decompression can cause very serious injury. For safety, borrow, rent, or buy a proper compressor.

BFH removes the joint with effort. Soak it well beforehand with the penetrating oil of your choosing.

I've several post in this thread with pics.

Lower Ball Joint Replacement Question

If the lower joints are bad I suspect your guide rod bushings are shot as well. You might as well do it all at once.

Good luck!

He has a klann clone compressor. I know, I borrowed it.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

NAPA sells the same tool for under $20. I do not know of anyone who has used it.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

According to the MB service manual, knocking the lower ball joint out with a hammer is doing it right.

Sure they do!!!

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=SER&PartNumber=3916&Description=Ball+Joint+Separator

According to you it works pretty well, I will probably go this round next time.

You are correct. In my case some rocket scientist had welded a bead around the joint. I don't thing they make a hammer big enough for that.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

A ball joint press is an entirely different animal from a ball joint separator.

One would be hard-pressed to find a MB press for much under $300.