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  #1  
Old 09-18-2008, 12:50 AM
Cervan's Avatar
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most rebuild kits are worthless since they dont have the actual bearing that goes out. Buy the updated vacuum pump that meyle sells.
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  #2  
Old 09-18-2008, 08:43 AM
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I have 'scoped the pumps and other than minimal mechanical sounds I can hear nothing unusual; but I am a novice and not experienced in the sound a failing v-pump makes.
What would i be hearing if it is going bad?
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  #3  
Old 09-18-2008, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fruitcakesa View Post
I have 'scoped the pumps and other than minimal mechanical sounds I can hear nothing unusual; but I am a novice and not experienced in the sound a failing v-pump makes.
What would i be hearing if it is going bad?
Some make a noise, some stop pumping, some just go out with no sign. And destroys the engine.
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Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?

As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.
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  #4  
Old 09-19-2008, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cervan View Post
most rebuild kits are worthless since they dont have the actual bearing that goes out. Buy the updated vacuum pump that meyle sells.
The two bearings in the rocker mechanism are standard No. "626" (19mmŲ x 6 x 6), deep groove journal bearings, available from any specialist bearing store, ± $5. Buy a reputable brand and do NOT use bearings that have dust covers even if they have been removed! A simple job to replace - press out the 6mmŲ pin thro' the bearings and cam roller. Take care not to load the ball races when installing the new ones!!! Should last another 20 years.
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Last edited by Beagle; 09-19-2008 at 02:18 AM.
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  #5  
Old 09-23-2008, 09:18 AM
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I rebuilt the vacuum pump for our diesel and have great results. The symptoms came on gradually in our case, first with a slow shut down, then slower door locks. I waited until it affected the brake booster, which was way too late.

During the rebuild it was evident the problem was a torn diaphragm that probably started small and manifested itself greater as time passed. The rebuild kit was an M-B kit that addressed all the removable parts. In our case the bearing was not an issue.

Jim W.
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  #6  
Old 09-23-2008, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim W. View Post
I rebuilt the vacuum pump for our diesel and have great results. The symptoms came on gradually in our case, first with a slow shut down, then slower door locks. I waited until it affected the brake booster, which was way too late.

During the rebuild it was evident the problem was a torn diaphragm that probably started small and manifested itself greater as time passed. The rebuild kit was an M-B kit that addressed all the removable parts. In our case the bearing was not an issue.

Jim W.
I was wondering if the vacuum pump has anything to do with the way the transmission shifts/engages.
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  #7  
Old 09-23-2008, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by chilcutt View Post
I was wondering if the vacuum pump has anything to do with the way the transmission shifts/engages.
Do a search. If I remember my history right, you'll find that most all tranny shift discussions in here will talk about vacuum issues as the culprit.
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  #8  
Old 09-23-2008, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chilcutt View Post
I was wondering if the vacuum pump has anything to do with the way the transmission shifts/engages.
The very first thing you need to verify when you're having transmission shifting issues is that you're getting proper vacuum from the pump. Should be something like 22 inches on a W123. So you'll need to get a vacuum gauge. I spent ~$30 for my mityvac and IMO it's worth it...also handy for doing fluid changes.

There's an article I used, I think it's on dieselgiant, that tells you several basic steps to go through to have your trans adjusted properly.
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  #9  
Old 09-24-2008, 11:37 AM
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Yes, the vacuum affects the shifting. After our rebuild the shifting was like I remembered it should be.

I also recommend beginning your vacuum checking with a vacuum tester. First disconnect the vacuum line at the brake booster, then plug any or all lines between the brake booster and vacuum pump and check the main vacuum line with the tester. It should hold in the neighborhood of 20 inches for more than ten minutes. If it does it indicates the pump is OK, and, if you have vacuum problems, it is then a matter of isolating the source of the leak.

Jim W.
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  #10  
Old 09-24-2008, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Beagle View Post
The two bearings in the rocker mechanism are standard No. "626" (19mmŲ x 6 x 6), deep groove journal bearings, available from any specialist bearing store, ± $5. Buy a reputable brand and do NOT use bearings that have dust covers even if they have been removed! A simple job to replace - press out the 6mmŲ pin thro' the bearings and cam roller. Take care not to load the ball races when installing the new ones!!! Should last another 20 years.
Good info, thank you. His, I believe, is the newer style piston pump. Do you know if the bearing size is the same for the earlier diaphragm pumps?
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  #11  
Old 03-19-2009, 10:06 PM
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What's the difference?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beagle View Post
The two bearings in the rocker mechanism are standard No. "626" (19mmŲ x 6 x 6), deep groove journal bearings, available from any specialist bearing store, ± $5. Buy a reputable brand and do NOT use bearings that have dust covers even if they have been removed! A simple job to replace - press out the 6mmŲ pin thro' the bearings and cam roller. Take care not to load the ball races when installing the new ones!!! Should last another 20 years.
Over the years I've pulled the metal shields off of a few bearings where open bearings were specified and not readily available. It's one of those things that 'everyone does', the counter folks at bearing supply places suggest it when they don't have the non-shielded bearings in stock. I am not an expert of any sort in this area and so was hoping you could tell me the difference between a non-shielded bearing and a shielded bearing with the shield removed. To keep this on-topic I have not had much luck finding non-shielded 626 bearings locally.
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