I don't the plausibilty of doing so. Could you please elaborate on the method you used? How was the crank suspended nad how straight (parallel with the block) did it remain?

are you sure no angular forces were exerted on the pistons via the rods?

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I'm not sure I understand your question. All the caps where off.
I tied up the back to the lower part of the intermediate plate... I don't really remember how the front was.
I did have to undo the cam sprocket like I said. It wasn't parallel at all maybe 20ish degs?
I guess you could do it with the rod caps still on, but you would have to cut the chain to do it.
Doesn't seem worth it unless your replacing the chain or really worried about them bolts.

If I had to do it again, and I had the money and tools for the chain I would just cut the chain and replace it.
(I see no reason why you couldn't do a chain form the bottom if it's upside down.)

Nathan.

P. S. I couldn't get the seal in there at all with out lifting the crank up more.
I had to undo the cam sprocket to be able to lift it more.

gotcha...

you didnt want to remove the pulley etc. from the nose of the crank or the flywheel to do the main seal.

I was confused, congrats

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Well, all that was off too. I mostly didn't want to touch the timing.

oh, then you made that much more difficult then it needs to be. I wrote legitimate instructions for preserving the timing in post #4. (for anyone else who encounters this)

but you gotta do what makes you comfortable

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another blunder. I just realized we were taling about a 240d.

I was able to remove the crank with all the nose attachments on that engine. I am surprised you did not have enough slack to lift the crank and slide it out from underneath the chain.

I guess the idler pulley in the head is what gave me the extra room. Sorry for the confusion.

nice job!

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Thanks.