CV Joint Replace or wait? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 10-30-2008, 05:26 PM

If its still sealed, get the boots replaced.

DeliveryValve · #2 10-30-2008, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

If its still sealed, get the boots replaced.

If they are the factory units and are still good, with a boot replacement they could still out last aftermarket rebuilt units.

jt20 · #3 10-30-2008, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

If they are the factory units and are still good, with a boot replacement they could still out last aftermarket rebuilt units.

ditto, and in addition,, I had a ricer w/ a clicking CV that went cross country and then some. I am sure a factory CV will outperform. Could save alot of cash and hassle by changing the boots early

tobybul · #4 10-31-2008, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

If they are the factory units and are still good, with a boot replacement they could still out last aftermarket rebuilt units.

Marz, we might have to revisit a "how to" to the boot replacement on this thread..... seriously

dlevitt · #5 10-31-2008, 11:05 AM

It is possible to replace a boot with the axle still in place.

I needed to do this on my '71 Audi 100, and afterwards put over 20000 miles on the boot.

This was before they started selling kits with a prepared boot and special glue [at least for common sizes]

I started with a replacement boot, then slit the boot so it would fit around the axle. [used a new XActo blade that I had cleaned to remove any surface oil]

Then I removed the old boot and its clamps.

I re-glued the edges of the boot around the axle [with crazy glue] clamping the narrow [axle] end with channel locks to keep the glued joint in compression for a few minutes.

Then I slid the boot up the axle, and secured it with new clamps. I checked it periodically for the next year and it didn't fail. [the we replaced the Audi with a Fiat 131 wagon]

jt20 · #6 10-31-2008, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlevitt

It is possible to replace a boot with the axle still in place.

I needed to do this on my '71 Audi 100, and afterwards put over 20000 miles on the boot.

This was before they started selling kits with a prepared boot and special glue [at least for common sizes]

I started with a replacement boot, then slit the boot so it would fit around the axle. [used a new XActo blade that I had cleaned to remove any surface oil]

Then I removed the old boot and its clamps.

I re-glued the edges of the boot around the axle [with crazy glue] clamping the narrow [axle] end with channel locks to keep the glued joint in compression for a few minutes.

Then I slid the boot up the axle, and secured it with new clamps. I checked it periodically for the next year and it didn't fail. [the we replaced the Audi with a Fiat 131 wagon]

that is pretty daring.

you said you split the boot in half to get it over the axle?

the conventional method is to remove the axle.

rs899 · #7 10-31-2008, 12:14 PM

If it was me and the boot is only cracked and not leaking, I would only do watchful waiting, unless you are contemplating a long trip. All of mine have been cracked for 5 or more years and only one has popped open. Even if/when they do pop, if you notice it right away you can still reboot. It's not a safety issue until way past the point when it makes noise (when dry).

dlevitt · #8 10-31-2008, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jt20

that is pretty daring.

you said you split the boot in half to get it over the axle?

the conventional method is to remove the axle.

Not in half, just split it down one side.

For viewers who never had the pleasure of working on an old Audi...

The 100LS was front wheel drive, with the front brakes on the inboard [transmission] end of the drive shafts.

[this was fun for annual inspections, the inspector would usually take of one front wheel, pause for thought, take of the other front wheel and then ask me where the brakes were]

This required much larger / stronger driver shafts than would be normal on a car of its size. This in turn required a special press and a _big_ wrench to remove the axle from the front hub.

I originally thought the fix would only hold for a week or two - I didn't expect it to last a year.

Renaissdoc · #9 11-30-2008, 12:49 PM

I had an older 4X4 Isuzu Trooper, and did not have the desire nor the energy to remove the axles when a couple of circumferential tears separated two boots into "inner" and "outer" portions. So I "stitched" the two sides together, using a continuous stitch of stainless steel wire. I filled the insides with regular CV joint lubricant before making the final stitch or two. Then I cleaned the outside with grease-cutting solutions, carb spray. brake cleaner, etc. and thoroughly dried the outside where the stitches had been placed. Finally I put Goop (high strength stuff---much stronger than silicone) all around the stitches, making a loop right around the CV boot over the area of the repair. I intended to replace the boots or sell the car within a year or two, but ended up using it for a year, and then a friend took it over for the past three or four years. One of the repairs only needed one small touch-up after almost two years. No other zones of the same boots ever separated. If a highly-thinned Goop-like spray or liquid formulation were available, I suspect that most "aging" boots could be cleaned and then spray-coated or brushed with a few coats, and would last the life of the metal parts inside, unless some goof were to place a jack under one. I regularly use vinyl dip as an electrical insulator---but am unsure as to its strength, but some incredible flexible marine coatings are available---perhaps someone has a report on CV boot preservation using some similar preparation.

DeliveryValve · #10 10-31-2008, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

Marz, we might have to revisit a "how to" to the boot replacement on this thread..... seriously

Although I haven't tried it yet, it appears all you need is a long funnel and soap water or motor oil... Check out this video previously posted.

http://www.youtube.com/swf/l.swf?swf=http%3A//s.ytimg.com/yt/swf/cps-vfl62057.swf&video_id=F17tFS6ofzU&rel=1&showsearch=1&eurl=http%3A//www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php%3Ft%3D205346%26highlight%3Dcv%2Bboot&iurl=http%3A//i3.ytimg.com/vi/F17tFS6ofzU/hqdefault.jpg&sk=2mPgRGdlBnuiGih95I75TaHTtQ_AQo_oC&use_get_video_info=1&load_modules=1&hqt=1

tobybul · #11 10-31-2008, 12:46 PM

I remember this now. Slick as sn^t on a door knob!!! Might be a good winter project for my 84D.

If I can refurbish the orig axles, I'll have spare axles that I got from Advance.

Now - where to get good boots!!!

btw, i would vote for soap instead of oil. Oil can hasten the degradation of the rubber.

DeliveryValve · #12 10-31-2008, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

...

Now - where to get good boots!!!.....

Dorman Universal CV boots from Autzone, et al.

They come with axle grease, but I would rather use the original oil... not sure type and where to get that stuff.

rcounts · #13 10-31-2008, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

...btw, i would vote for soap instead of oil. Oil can hasten the degradation of the rubber.

Aren't these boots filled with petroleum-based grease? If so, regular oil shouldn't hurt them a bit - if the rubber is designed to stand up to petroleum-based grease, then petroleum-based oil shouldn't hurt them either.

Now if the grease in them isn't petroleum-based, then that might be a different story...

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