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  #31  
Old 11-03-2008, 11:05 AM
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Other things to check

1. Consider demounting the front tires and check for any wheel weights or old valve stems inside. Alternatively, try rotating the tires rear to front and listen for any change.

2. Retorque the bolts joining the front hubs to the rotors.

3. Retorque the caliper attachment bolts.

4. Retorque the wheel lugs.

5. With our non-floating calipers, if there is excess clearance between the caliper piston and caliper body, the piston may "rock" or chatter, inducing a noise coupled through the rotor/hub assembly. When brake pressure is applied, the clamping effect between the piston and rotor effectively eliminates any clearance. This is a remote possibility since you do not describe any pulsing sensation through the brake pedal.


Good luck with your troubleshooting effort.

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  #32  
Old 11-03-2008, 11:20 AM
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idler

When I read your first post I was litterly yelling at the moniter- Its the Idler!!!!!!!!!! Then I read on down and see some one has beat me to it. I have had this happen on several cars- The thing goes south and does exactly what you described. It some times doesnt appear to be bad- but it only takes a slight bit of movement to cause this condition. You can buy a rebuild kit very reasonably to check it out.
Chris
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  #33  
Old 11-03-2008, 12:23 PM
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Smile

I'm going to add my car to the list of "clunkers". i just bought an 85 300SD that does the same thing on the gravel road out to the pavement where i live. steers and drives fine, just makes this noise on the gravel.
and....
someone doesn't know what a "washboard" road is???? wow. i would ask: why does a car rust? nothing here does.
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  #34  
Old 11-03-2008, 02:40 PM
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Mark,

Lot of guessing here... But maybe you have a bad shock on that side. You might try to swap it with the other side to see if the noise will follow it. Also when you installed your Bilsteins, did you make sure the top washer that is dished has the dished part facing up? A common mistake is to have it facing down and when the bushing is compressed from the road bumps, the top washer knocks against the body.
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  #35  
Old 11-03-2008, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Mark,

Lot of guessing here... But maybe you have a bad shock on that side. You might try to swap it with the other side to see if the noise will follow it. Also when you installed your Bilsteins, did you make sure the top washer that is dished has the dished part facing up? A common mistake is to have it facing down and when the bushing is compressed from the road bumps, the top washer knocks against the body.


I replaced all my shocks, but i did put the washer upside down. If i recall, i also took it off that way. And after the rebuild the noise happens more often so I will give it a try.
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  #36  
Old 11-03-2008, 05:57 PM
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reversing it did not help at all.
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  #37  
Old 11-03-2008, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by turbobenz View Post
reversing it did not help at all.
Well it was worth a shot.

BTW - When you tightened down the shock, did you tighten it down enough for the rubber bushing is smooshed to a tad wider then the washer? Approximately > or < 40 ft lbs of torque.
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  #38  
Old 11-03-2008, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Well it was worth a shot.

BTW - When you tightened down the shock, did you tighten it down enough for the rubber bushing is smooshed to a tad wider then the washer? Approximately > or < 40 ft lbs of torque.


Yes, I put it to 45ftlb




Someone that has locktite on hand needs to remove their caliper and see if theres any play in the piston. This is really the only thing left that can be making the noise.
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  #39  
Old 11-04-2008, 12:55 PM
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Well, Still no luck...

Quote:
Originally Posted by clm View Post
When I read your first post I was litterly yelling at the moniter- Its the Idler!!!!!!!!!! Then I read on down and see some one has beat me to it. I have had this happen on several cars- The thing goes south and does exactly what you described. It some times doesnt appear to be bad- but it only takes a slight bit of movement to cause this condition. You can buy a rebuild kit very reasonably to check it out.
Chris
I did check the idler arm last night and it has no apparent shake, and the bolt is very tight...I did replace this bushing kit about 18 months ago, so I would think that it is still OK. You say that sometimes it goes bad and you really can't tell, requiring only a very small amount of play to cause the symptoms I describe. On the one hand, I just want to get another rebuild kit and install it, but on the other hand, I dont want to start replacing parts I just replaced a short while ago. What I will do is take it apart and see if there is any loose fitting component that should be tight, then go from there.

Thanks a lot,

Mark
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  #40  
Old 11-04-2008, 01:19 PM
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Thanks....

Quote:
Originally Posted by aeromechanix View Post
1. Consider demounting the front tires and check for any wheel weights or old valve stems inside. Alternatively, try rotating the tires rear to front and listen for any change.

2. Retorque the bolts joining the front hubs to the rotors.

3. Retorque the caliper attachment bolts.

4. Retorque the wheel lugs.

5. With our non-floating calipers, if there is excess clearance between the caliper piston and caliper body, the piston may "rock" or chatter, inducing a noise coupled through the rotor/hub assembly. When brake pressure is applied, the clamping effect between the piston and rotor effectively eliminates any clearance. This is a remote possibility since you do not describe any pulsing sensation through the brake pedal.

Good luck with your troubleshooting effort.
A while ago, I put my winter tires on the front (mounted on separate rims), to see if the noise was tire/wheel related...this had no effect on the noise.

When listing again to the noise, is sounds so definitely related to the wheel/hub area, I will check out the things you suggest. I already did check tightness of all bolts (rotor to hub, caliper, etc.). But your comments about the non-floating calipers and possible caliper piston knock makes me think....the advent of the noise approximately coincides with my having rebuilt the front calipers. I think what I will do is, instead of taking them apart, and essentially rebuilding them again, I will just take the dam things off the car, then drive it and see if the noise happens. In order to do this, I will see if I can find brass fittings to cap the brake lines so I would at least have rear brakes, plus emergency brakes. I don't experience any pulsing at the brake pedal.

When I rebuilt the calipers, it was the first time I ever did this, and I dont recall any excessive play or distortion...I did sand the surfaces of the pistons and calipers with very fine (1500) sand paper, and everything seemed ok. Everything went back together just fine, and brakes have been just great since. I cant think of anything else associated with front end suspension that could cause the noise...all parts have been replaced (ball joints, control arm bushings, bearings, rotors, upper control arms, etc. etc.)!

In one of my previous posts when I was brainstorming about possible causes, I did think that maybe the rebuild kit I used had a too-squishy piston seal, allowing the piston to bang around inside the caliper....all this seems like a real stretch, but I am running out of possibilities.

I will update after doing these things,

Thanks for the suggestions,

Mark
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  #41  
Old 11-04-2008, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkM View Post
I always thought the noise was suspension related, and not brake related, so only recently did I drive over washboard surface with brakes applied and not applied, and the noise does not happen when brakes are applied. When brakes are applied, the suspension sounds as tight as a new ferrari (almost), and when brakes are not applied, bam, bam, bam, bam.

Can anyone think of anything else...

Mark
Loose calipers.
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  #42  
Old 11-04-2008, 02:00 PM
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I'm in the exact same situation as the first poster. Completely rebuilt suspension, but I still get a clunk from the passenger's side on "washboard" roads, except only when it's cold outside, as in 50 degrees or less. At higher temps, the clunk can't be heard. I gave up on finding this clunk a long time ago.
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  #43  
Old 11-04-2008, 02:06 PM
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I vote for loose calipers. I had same exact problem and they were loose. Are your bolts to long perhaps?
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  #44  
Old 11-04-2008, 02:54 PM
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I will check...

Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
I vote for loose calipers. I had same exact problem and they were loose. Are your bolts to long perhaps?
I admit that when I installed calipers, I did not apply thread locker to the bolts; however, when I install them, I crank down with an ordinary 3/8' socket wrench, then finish it off with a large (18" long, 1/2" drive) breaker bar. I can't imagine that the calipers are loose. That said, I am in the mode of completely re-assessing everything I have done (for the 3rd or 4th time now!!!), so, as I said in my above post, I am just going to remove the calipers, cap the brake lines and drive it to see if I have the noise. If the noise persists, I will then remove the shocks and drive it.

What amazes me is that the noise over "washboard" surface is not just a subtle rattle that is difficult to hear. The dam thing sounds like the wheel could come off! There must be an obvious simple and straightforward fix, but trying to find it is the most challenging/frustrating thing I have ever encountered with this car!

You ask if my caliper bolts are too long....are you saying that the bolt holes are "dead end" holes (not "through holes")...if that is the case, maybe I will grind off some of the ends of the bolts. I can't imagine that these fat, stubby caliper bolts could stretch that much (not like head bolts), but if the bolt holes are dead end holes, maybe there is some crud built up at the bottoms of the bolt holes. Its a long shot, but easy to check and fix if that is the problem!

Thanks,

Mark
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Last edited by MarkM; 11-04-2008 at 03:06 PM.
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  #45  
Old 11-04-2008, 03:18 PM
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I would grab the caliper and give it some good shakes.

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