Hi folks,

In a previous thread, I broke the nut on this cable. FYI: in reading many, many threads, this control thrust cable is erroneously referred to as the Bowden cable by W126 owners. Also, this cable is also called the "transmission cable" by others. Whatever you want to call it, it is the cable that has a nut that allows you to adjust the shift point and runs from the engine bay, across the top of the trans bell housing and to the passenger side of the transmission.

As I broke that adjustment nut, I purchased another replacement cable. The problem i have is two fold: 1) there's hardly any room to fit your hand to install the transmission end of the cable. After trying for 2 hours, I'm just going to lower the transmission an inch or two. 2) this end is really tough to push down.

If 1 solves 2, then I'll be fine. But has anyone else installed this cable and had the same problem of pushing down the transmission end of this cable?

Tips, tricks, etc appreciated.

Bob

A Bowden cable is named for it's inventor/designer, not it's function. MBs with manual AC have Bowden cables for vent selection.

Don't send the fan into the shroud or stress the radiator fittings when tilting the engine!

Sixto
87 300D

Ok, i didn't drop the trans, but I removed the center crossmember underneath the transmission mount and that gave me enough wiggle room to snap it down.

however, the link that comes out of the trans was very difficult to attach to the eyelet that comes out of the control cable. I thought I had it, then I secured the round end of this cable into the transmission. I soon found out that it was not connected. dont ask.

The hardest part was to lift this link out. Anyone have some experience iwth this? Can the link end be pushed out if I remove the drain pan cover? I don't mind doing that since I plan to install a K2 valve body spring kit. Btw, Sixto: I checked the manual. No mention of that:



Bob

Alright, these images should help alot of people who want to install this cable end. Thanks to Benzdriver and Stevebfl (moderator) for this great tip. Drain fluid and remove the transmission pan. On the passenger side, you will see a L-shaped lever and piston-like device. If you press it to the right, the control lever catch (the one with the hook) will extend upwards and it will make it 10x easier to mate it to the eyelet on the cable.

Oh, I have in the past stated that the K1 kit fixed my 1-2 shifting. Well, i want to clarify that ... technically, whatever that did worked for 1 to 2. however, this is what the instructions and mercedes say:

To fix shifts from 1 to 2, the Superior kit provides a series of springs to replace in the B1 accumulator area.

To fix 2 to 3, replace the K1 accumulator springs
To fix 3 to 4, replace the K2 accumulator springs

Its late, but I plan to start a new thread w/ all the Superior diagrams and install pics. See my thread here:

My Superior Shift Kit thread (W124 300DT)

Attached Thumbnails

   

As you can see in the above pics, I was finally able to mate the hook into the eyelet.

You will need to first push the ball end inwards. Do NOT attach the ball piece yet. Save that for last. Afterwards, I found it easier to run the cable from the transmission over the bellhousing and then upwards into the engine bay.

I wedged a large nut in between the lever. It was the perfect size. As far as connecting the hook into the eyelet, its hard b/c there's hardly any room. So what I did was to place a screwdriver behind the shaft of the hook to hold it forward. Otherwise, the shaft will move somewhere else as soon as you touch it. Once I put some forward pressure on it, i was able to push the eyelet onto the hook. Of note, I was expecting it to snap in place, but it did not nor will it.

This one rates a 10 on the b###h-o-meter. 1 for putting diesel into your car, a 10 for lots of cursing, ripped skin, etc.

Once I secured the cable and finished up the securing all the transmission parts, i went for a looong drive to adjust the shift points. Since this nut is brand new, it was 100x easier to turn. I firmly believe that the old age of the previous nut caused it to snap so easily. Adjusting the shift points was a lot easier, thanks to the cable and nut being new. Now I don't have high 4000 rpm shift points! Not to mention, the Superior Shift Kit spring kit helped out a lot too. See my experience here: My Superior Shift Kit thread (W124 300DT)

Thanks again to Benzdriver and Stevebfl. W/o your combined great advice via email, I'd still be under the car now

Question : does the hook go to the inside or outside of the reciever of the kickdown cable ?