Okay folks,

1999 E300 Turbodiesel, 146,000 miles, new plastic fuel lines, new S/O valve, new fuel o-rings, new (well sealed) prefilter w/o-ring, etc. etc. No air leaks, but I haven't done the D/V seals.

I've finally ordered all the pieces and parts to swap out my injectors with new ones to see if that fixes my mild throttle flutter/stutter problem. I suspect that when I removed the valve cover (disconnection of fuel injection hard lines required) that I may have introduced some dust into the lines.

My question is this: Since I live in the dusty desert, I've waited 'till the winter to do anything about this. How should I go about dust removal from the lines and associated pieces so that I do not contaminate the new injectors? I've thought that using a box of Swiffers to remove most of the surface dust and then something like silicon spray to flush the dust off the lines before removal and again before assembly would be the best way.

Any other suggestions.

Oh, and if this doesn't fix it, I will replace the D/V seals (not seeping any fue yet) next.

__________________
2013 Volkswagen Jetta Hybrid SEL Premium (Sparky)
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/193500.png

It's a car not a science experiment! Open the throttle!

Where I used to work Injector changing on the Vehicle was done outside as we had not insid Bay for Vehicles. This is the way that I used to use.
Of course the area on the engine needs to be as clean as possible (should have been cleaned before the Injectors were removed).

After the Injectors or rebuilt I put CapPlugs on them (If no CapPlugs I used masking tape). The CapPlugs/Tape stay on the Injectors as long as possible; with Mercedes if your Socket is deep enough you can leave the plugs on even during the Torquing into the Head.

If the Injector Hard Lines were completely removed blow them out with compressed air and make sure the tips are clean. If you do not have compressed air or the hard lines were left on the IP; wipe the tips off and crank the engine and get fuel to come out of all of the Hard Lines to flush out and dirt.

Remove the CapPlug from 1 Injector and install 1 Hard Line; screwing the nut down by hand. When the nut bottoms out back the nut off 1/4-1/2 turn. Do the same 1 at a time with each Injector until they are all done.

The reason for backing off the Injector Hard Line Nuts 1/4-1/2 turn is not only to bleed the air out of the Hard Lines. When you crank the Engine and Fuel comes out it will also flush any dirt that might could have settled in the short time the CapPlug was off before you put the.

The trick here is that you do not want to back the nut off too far; you want the nut loose enough so that fuel comes out but tight enough so that it comes out under pressure (spurts out strongly from under the nut). The pressure is need to push out and dirt.
The above worked 99% of the time for me.

If the hard lines will be removed for a long time while you are working on something clean them blow them out with air and put them in a plastic bag so no dirt gets in them. Use some tape that will not melt on the IP outlets to keep dirt out; of couse if you have some CapPlugs use them.

I have used Brake Cleaner or Carburator Cleaner to flush out the Hard Lines before. Of the 2 I think Brake Cleaner is better as when it dries there is nothing for dust to stick to.
I have no experience with Silicone Spray so cannot comment on it.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'd blow the holes out with high pressure air from a compressor. Whats left maybe brake cleaner.

You probably know this but on the 606's you need a special thin walled socket to get the injectors out. I think Snap On makes one, the MB dealer also sells it.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I have the socket on order. I will use brake cleaner instead of silicone spray. Will also give the areas where I will be working a good cleaning. I'm also going to find some cap plugs so that I can work slowly.

Last time I'm almost sure that some grit got into the lines as I had them off for over a day and the wind was kicking up out here.

I'll be much more careful this time. Will also have the old injectors tested/rebuilt.

__________________
2013 Volkswagen Jetta Hybrid SEL Premium (Sparky)
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/193500.png

It's a car not a science experiment! Open the throttle!

If you have your injectors rebuilt at a Fuel Injection shop they will most likely put CapPlugs on the Injectors before they return them to you (or seal them in a plastic bag). If they seal them in a plastic bag just ask them for some CapPlugs; I bet they will give you some.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel