I Polished Gladys's Valve Cover Today - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

::matthew · #46 12-09-2008, 11:38 PM

MBeige,

the firewall's looking a little dusty above the brake booster. shame.

Dee8go · #47 12-10-2008, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBeige

I like mine as it is, not polished but smooth and clean. Just as it should be.

Niiiice! Wow, that is one clean engine bay. I like shiny valve covers, air cleaners, etc., but that looks brand new. Good for you!

Mine has oil that seems to keep leaking out on various parts no matter what I do to prevent it. I'd be ecstatic if I could keep mine looking as good as yours does, Beige.

pizzachef · #48 12-10-2008, 10:13 AM

Holy Moly, do you ever drive that car?!

Very nice.

MBeige · #49 12-10-2008, 08:47 PM

Yes, I drive it daily. Thanks, yes it has its fair share of oil leaks. But the valve cover has not been polished in any way, just cleaned nicely. In fact when I took it out before, I cleaned it inside out and actually waxed it. Now that I read about cleaning it and then waxing it as a good protective measure I'm glad I did so.

Matthew, that part has ridges on the paint, it's the shadow...

Whenever I do something, as Jeremy mentioned, I clean it before reinstalling. That way I cover the car bit by bit. I do need to clean up the oil leak once in a while, the underside is not the best place to stay especially when doing engine mounts and the like

Chad300tdt · #50 02-15-2009, 02:26 PM

I'm catching up Jeremy

pizzachef · #51 02-15-2009, 02:47 PM

Aahhh, did you swap your fuel and oil caps?

Chad300tdt · #52 02-15-2009, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pizzachef

Aahhh, did you swap your fuel and oil caps?

Nope. jt20 sent me an OEL cap along with my new US Spec turn signal bulb sockets.

Jeremy5848 · #53 02-15-2009, 03:16 PM

This is one of the "hidden" advantages to doing your own maintenance. Every time you have the cover off to adjust the valves, you polish the cover. Doesn't take a lot of effort and every time it gets a little better.

pizzachef · #54 02-15-2009, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

Nope. jt20 sent me an OEL cap along with my new US Spec turn signal bulb sockets.

Oh, sweet! I didn't see the Oel on it. And you're got front running lights now too. Nice.

KAdams4458 · #55 02-15-2009, 05:33 PM

All this polishing seems like so much work. I have too many cars to polish as it is, so the corroded and yucky valve cover that sits atop my engine is getting a frosted finish in the media blast cabinet at some point. I may even get ambitious and follow it up with a clear powder coat finish, so that I never have to touch it again.

compu_85 · #56 02-15-2009, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I'm catching up Jeremy

I hope there's a blockage in that vacuum line going to the EGR

-J

Thecorrupterx · #57 07-20-2009, 12:07 PM

how much would someone on the forums pay to have a valve cover polished and then shipped to them?

I have started a small polish buisiness and I too have polished my valve cover. If any one wants I can see about scooping one from a junk yard and shining it up and clear coating it with high heat clear coat.

Chad300tdt · #58 07-20-2009, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compu_85

I hope there's a blockage in that vacuum line going to the EGR

-J

Finally taken care of.

I used the kit from BC. I'm also going to get the cat trap bypass from monstercraftsman in the next few weeks.

I'm another step closer Jeremy. You're right, the turbo looks nicer without the clutter.

warmblood58 · #59 07-20-2009, 02:30 PM

[QUOTE=strelnik;2043731]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848

Looks good. I would like to hear from those who have successfully clear-coated a valve cover after polishing. My recollection of Japanese motorcycle engines in the 1970s is that the clear-coat would start to flake off after awhile and the resulting patchwork looked terrible. Perhaps coating compounds are better? A local shop recommends powder coating but the process is fairly expensive.

Guys,

I am a certified aluminum rectifier who gave the tech talk on this for Roy locally at the International stars tech mtg. PLEASE do not attempt to clearcoat.

The best way to keep the valve cover shiny is to remove it, clean it completely in and out, then use tooling or abrasive paper to rectify it, i.e. the same way that a telescope mirror is rectified to move all the molecules in the same direction on the surface, which creates the unified reflection of all light.

Using Simi chrome or anything else with ammonia only compounds the problem. By using ammonia-based products, you insert tiny crystals of ammonia based compounds that get in the cracks and crevices of the surface. Over time, the heat and exposure to moisture activates these and actually eats away small amounts of the metal, weakening it. Simi chrome contains the seeds of its own destruction which are further added each time you use it.

After you rectify and get the mirror finish, apply a coat of surf board wax, aka "sex wax" at the the surfing stores like Ron Jon's or carnauba wax and let iot soak into the pores once the piece has been thoroughly cleaned. That will seal the shine in. After 6 months, remove it from the engine, wash with fels naptha soap several times following a dip in gasoline or diesel fuel, then reseal and buff. No muss, no fuss except for the initial investment of effort.

Thanks,
S

This is great information, thank you! has anyone worked out a procedure as of yet? I assume wet/dry paper -starting at 600-800 grit and working down to 2000 maybe? Anyone?

Thecorrupterx · #60 07-20-2009, 02:46 PM

I have worked out a fairly good procedure for polishing up aluminum. First try 600, if its not enough, try 400, and so on until you are removing all of the valleys and imperfections out of the surface. When I did mine I took a file and got rid of most of the weld marks around the wavy side of my valve cover so I went all the way down to 150 grit. From there It was 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800. when moving from one grit to the next sand 90 degrees from the prior grit, then you can see if you are actually removing the scratches left by the last grit.
Once you get up to 800 or so, it is time to break out the buffing wheels and use compounds. First get a sewn wheel and use emery compound on it, this should remove scratches from 600 to 800. After that wash the part!! and get a clean wheel and use tripoly on it, sewn or un-sewn it is up to you on the tripoly. This will remove the scratches left by the emery. Then wash the part. Then get a clean un-sewn wheel and use white rouge to finish it all up. This will leave you with a mirror shine. and it you took proper time and care to do all of the sanding right, the it will come out looking like chrome. Any questions?

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