I Polished Gladys's Valve Cover Today - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Dee8go · #31 12-08-2008, 10:07 AM

The air filter cover in my SEC is blinding. I'm not too good with most mechanical stuff, but I can buff the hell out of metal!

Chad300tdt · #32 12-08-2008, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

The air filter cover in my SEC is blinding. I'm not too good with most mechanical stuff, but I can buff the hell out of metal!

If it's possible to photograph, I'd like to see a pic.

Dee8go · #33 12-08-2008, 10:16 AM

I'll take one for you when it's warm enough to photograph without so much camera shake.

charmalu · #34 12-08-2008, 10:22 PM

I have an old valve cover I have been working off and on for a couple years.

I wanted to round of the rough edges where the cover goes around each injector. and smooth out the grind job done at the factory.

I have used files, wet and dry sand paper starting around a 360 grit or so. and then working down to a 400, 600. then using some aluminium polish. I have tried different brands of polish. each one claiming to be better than any one elses polish.

one thing I have noticed is there are some small holes that appear from imperfections in the aluminium casting.

I get all gung hoe on it for a while, then it layies out there in the barn in my to do pile.

there is a place in fresno, ca. that does Ceramic coating that looks like chrome. so I think eventually I will send my parts there and have them coated. then no more polishing.

www.capsbhc.com

click on the side links, some interesting stuff.

JEREMY and CHAD your engines look good. I forgot what my 85 engine looked like when I first bought it, since it has recieved it`s Federal Implants.

If the metal gas cap is used on the valve cover, it sits at a cock-eyed angle. the metal oil cap has OEL stamped in it, and is aligned with the valve cover when tightened down.

Charlie

RML · #35 12-08-2008, 11:52 PM

Nice goin' Chad. That valve cover looks great. I recently adjusted my valves and was going to shine up the valve cover but the weather turned cold and I ran out of time. It is a project I look forward to though. I shined up the power steering cover and it looked great. It led me to believe that the valve cover would look great as well, as you have demonstrated.

strelnik · #36 12-08-2008, 11:53 PM

[quote=Jeremy5848;2040255]Looks good. I would like to hear from those who have successfully clear-coated a valve cover after polishing. My recollection of Japanese motorcycle engines in the 1970s is that the clear-coat would start to flake off after awhile and the resulting patchwork looked terrible. Perhaps coating compounds are better? A local shop recommends powder coating but the process is fairly expensive.

Guys,

I am a certified aluminum rectifier who gave the tech talk on this for Roy locally at the International stars tech mtg. PLEASE do not attempt to clearcoat.

The best way to keep the valve cover shiny is to remove it, clean it completely in and out, then use tooling or abrasive paper to rectify it, i.e. the same way that a telescope mirror is rectified to move all the molecules in the same direction on the surface, which creates the unified reflection of all light.

Using Simi chrome or anything else with ammonia only compounds the problem. By using ammonia-based products, you insert tiny crystals of ammonia based compounds that get in the cracks and crevices of the surface. Over time, the heat and exposure to moisture activates these and actually eats away small amounts of the metal, weakening it. Simi chrome contains the seeds of its own destruction which are further added each time you use it.

After you rectify and get the mirror finish, apply a coat of surf board wax, aka "sex wax" at the the surfing stores like Ron Jon's or carnauba wax and let iot soak into the pores once the piece has been thoroughly cleaned. That will seal the shine in. After 6 months, remove it from the engine, wash with fels naptha soap several times following a dip in gasoline or diesel fuel, then reseal and buff. No muss, no fuss except for the initial investment of effort.

Thanks,
S

RML · #37 12-09-2008, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strelnik

. . . PLEASE do not attempt to clearcoat.

The best way to keep the valve cover shiny is to remove it, clean it completely in and out, then use tooling or abrasive paper to rectify it, i.e. the same way that a telescope mirror is rectified to move all the molecules in the same direction on the surface, which creates the unified reflection of all light.

By using ammonia-based products, you insert tiny crystals of ammonia based compounds that get in the cracks and crevices of the surface. Over time, the heat and exposure to moisture activates these and actually eats away small amounts of the metal, weakening it. Simi chrome contains the seeds of its own destruction which are further added each time you use it.

Thanks,
S

It is always nice to hear from someone who knows what they are talking about and can back it up with some good technical information. Thanks, Strelnik

71inka02 · #38 12-09-2008, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

Thanks everybody.

Slowly but surely.

I'm still working on the original w123 orders. I'm doing 15 of those and I'm bringing them all along together on each step.

I currently have w115, w116, w126 (1st and 2nd generation), and w123 consoles to use for mockups and will be offering holders for all of them. I'm still waiting on a w124 console too.

Cupholders (CH)? --- In desperate need of CH for my W126...What's the scoop, as i just dumped my 3rd cup of Starbucks last Friday, on my right leg and console area.

Getting worried and not sure how much longer my window switches can take the high doses of caffeine!

MBeige · #39 12-09-2008, 12:50 AM

It's interesting to see most of the cars here either have the all black oil filler cap with no markings (save for the "oil" and the MB star perhaps). On mine it was replaced with a much newer cap, which has a marking stating that overfilling the engine with oil could result in engine damage. I've seen those period correct metal caps, and I have two lying around that I bought new seals for to try out, but have never seen the black one with the smaller handle. I've seen the one that installs on the oil filler hole diagonally and the one that installs straight.

If I had my own little shop I'd take out the throttle linkages and polish them individually, but alas I don't. Perhaps even the electric cruise control actuator "motor" unit (brass cover) and the power steering pump cover (the one with the "star" - mine is an 83, 84 and 85 had the updated P/S pump cover with rubber nut).

rcounts · #40 12-09-2008, 02:03 AM

That looks just beautiful, BUT, my only question is this; Is it period-correct? In other words, did the engines look like this when new, or did they have the dull finish when they came from the factory?

turbobenz · #41 12-09-2008, 02:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcounts

That looks just beautiful, BUT, my only question is this; Is it period-correct? In other words, did the engines look like this when new, or did they have the dull finish when they came from the factory?

the finish was duller and most components were cadmium (i think) plated

Chad300tdt · #42 12-09-2008, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

I have an old valve cover I have been working off and on for a couple years.

I wanted to round of the rough edges where the cover goes around each injector. and smooth out the grind job done at the factory.

I have used files, wet and dry sand paper starting around a 360 grit or so. and then working down to a 400, 600. then using some aluminium polish. I have tried different brands of polish. each one claiming to be better than any one elses polish.

one thing I have noticed is there are some small holes that appear from imperfections in the aluminium casting.

I get all gung hoe on it for a while, then it layies out there in the barn in my to do pile.

there is a place in fresno, ca. that does Ceramic coating that looks like chrome. so I think eventually I will send my parts there and have them coated. then no more polishing.

www.capsbhc.com

click on the side links, some interesting stuff.

JEREMY and CHAD your engines look good. I forgot what my 85 engine looked like when I first bought it, since it has recieved it`s Federal Implants.

If the metal gas cap is used on the valve cover, it sits at a cock-eyed angle. the metal oil cap has OEL stamped in it, and is aligned with the valve cover when tightened down.

Charlie

Cool link Charlie, I can't wait to see your finished valve cover. It sounds like you've put quite a bit of effort into it so far.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RML

Nice goin' Chad. That valve cover looks great. I recently adjusted my valves and was going to shine up the valve cover but the weather turned cold and I ran out of time. It is a project I look forward to though. I shined up the power steering cover and it looked great. It led me to believe that the valve cover would look great as well, as you have demonstrated.

Thanks Richard. I guess a bit more polishing and your car will be better than showroom.

Quote:

Originally Posted by strelnik

Guys,

I am a certified aluminum rectifier who gave the tech talk on this for Roy locally at the International stars tech mtg. PLEASE do not attempt to clearcoat.

The best way to keep the valve cover shiny is to remove it, clean it completely in and out, then use tooling or abrasive paper to rectify it, i.e. the same way that a telescope mirror is rectified to move all the molecules in the same direction on the surface, which creates the unified reflection of all light.

Using Simi chrome or anything else with ammonia only compounds the problem. By using ammonia-based products, you insert tiny crystals of ammonia based compounds that get in the cracks and crevices of the surface. Over time, the heat and exposure to moisture activates these and actually eats away small amounts of the metal, weakening it. Simi chrome contains the seeds of its own destruction which are further added each time you use it.

After you rectify and get the mirror finish, apply a coat of surf board wax, aka "sex wax" at the the surfing stores like Ron Jon's or carnauba wax and let iot soak into the pores once the piece has been thoroughly cleaned. That will seal the shine in. After 6 months, remove it from the engine, wash with fels naptha soap several times following a dip in gasoline or diesel fuel, then reseal and buff. No muss, no fuss except for the initial investment of effort.

Thanks,
S

Thanks for the tips Strelnik. So do you think I have a problem, or did my final buff with clean steel wool clean up the Simichrome enough?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71inka02

Cupholders (CH)? --- In desperate need of CH for my W126...What's the scoop, as i just dumped my 3rd cup of Starbucks last Friday, on my right leg and console area.

Getting worried and not sure how much longer my window switches can take the high doses of caffeine!

I'm still working on the short w123 versions then I have a full console version for the w123's and I begin with the w126's. I'm a ways off to being ready with them. I'm sorry, try to be careful until then and I'll post announcements when each chassis's version becomes available.

here's the thread so you can see one:
w123 cup holders with closely matching Zebrano

Dee8go · #43 12-09-2008, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcounts

That looks just beautiful, BUT, my only question is this; Is it period-correct? In other words, did the engines look like this when new, or did they have the dull finish when they came from the factory?

Screw "period correct." That looks terrific. I'd take that over "period correct" ANYday. Nice job. If you get bored, come on over to my house. You can do mine.

PanzerSD · #44 12-09-2008, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pizzachef

Sweet

And I don't care what people say about the california setup, I like that you can see the turbo

yeah, that's pretty sweet, need to treat that exhaust housing with some eastwood cast iron high heat paint. makes it look like new cast iron and it LASTS.

I am unfamiliar with that style air cleaner...something like that is what I need to clean up the engine comp. on my SD, when I relocate the battery to the trunk.

looookin pretty damn sharp tho...!

MBeige · #45 12-09-2008, 11:18 PM

I like mine as it is, not polished but smooth and clean. Just as it should be.