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#1
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603.96 IP reseal shopping list
Here's a list of part numbers for seals when your 603.96 IP turns into a sieve:
004 997 46 40 = bottom cover seal 001 074 37 80 = side cover seal (aluminum cover, different seal for steel cover) 000 091 17 80 = lift pump seal 010 997 56 48 = shut off actuator seal 001 074 43 80 = rear cover seal 013 997 81 48 = ELR actuator seal 013 997 09 47 = input shaft seal (who would know this is leaking???) 012 997 83 48 = front seal 123 304 00 60 = VCV seal N 007603 018100 = RIV plug crush washer (I think, diagram's not clear) I didn't see a part number for the control rod sensor connector which is just as well since the IP has to come apart to replace that seal... and each one I've seen leaks! I didn't see a part number for the shut off lever shaft seal. Crush washers for fuel supply and return lines: N 007603 012405 Crush washers for lift pump line: N 007603 010100 While the IP's out, good time to replace the thermostat o-ring: 011 997 39 48 gsxr has a Bosch parts list with some of these seals - http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/Bosch_IP_parts_list2.doc There's a parts diagram I can't make sense of due to poor resolution. Sixto 87 300D |
#2
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Are you tackling this project on your 603? I'm currently investigating Coda's options since her IP is leaking.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#3
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I've done this before. If you can remove, install and time the IP there's nothing to replacing seals. I didn't do the VCV seal or input shaft seal. Current car has a leaking bottom seal...
Sixto 87 300D |
#4
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it's all about time
I've never set the timing and the guys I called just made it sound too easy (for them to do). In addition, I found their "re-seal" rate to be reasonable.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#5
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How much? I'm guessing it's a solid 3 hours of work. There's no end of while-you're-in-theres if you do it yourself so plan on a weekend.
Sixto 87 300D |
#6
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How about torque specs for tightening the gaskets, ideas?
Also, gasket sealent needed? Any pointers?
__________________
1987 300SDL "Rudolf" 239k 8/10 Gone but not forgotten -1980 F250 4X4 351C Snowplow "The Beast" -1976 Caddy Eldo Convertible, in triple red. "Red headed Slut" -2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 loaded 107k, My first brand new car! *IM A HORRIBLE SPELLER* |
#7
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BUMP
__________________
1987 300SDL "Rudolf" 239k 8/10 Gone but not forgotten -1980 F250 4X4 351C Snowplow "The Beast" -1976 Caddy Eldo Convertible, in triple red. "Red headed Slut" -2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 loaded 107k, My first brand new car! *IM A HORRIBLE SPELLER* |
#8
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I don't have any torque specs. Screwdriver tight should do it. Coat o-rings with engine oil. Otherwise no sealant, just dry gaskets on clean and dry surfaces.
Sixto 87 300D |
#9
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i have not been able to find a part number or dimensions for the stop lever shaft seal,both mine and my sons are leaking and the dealers parts book does not show the seal or the lever and i dont see either on GSXRs drawing either. Any help would really be apreciated.
Don
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Red Green "This is only temporary,Unless it works!" ![]() 97 E300D 157000 miles 87 300TD ?141k? miles |
#10
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I used a generic o-ring for the shut off lever shaft. Someone said an oil filter post o-ring fits perfectly.
Sixto 87 300D |
#11
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input shaft seal... right or wrong way to face it for installation? the old once was in pieces (hmmm the source of the leak in that area?) so i couldnt tell the orientation. Also, whats the proper procedure for installing the input shaft seal? i think mine went in a tad cockeyed
also i was "pleasently" surprized my the pint or quart of oil i got all over myself and bench and tools while dissassemblying.... do i need to refill the ip somehow or will that be done upon startup? also... when i locked and removed the pump my engine timing is about 17-18 degrees (that is where the slot lined up the best. is this ok of do i need to borrow the RIV tool?
__________________
1987 300SDL "Rudolf" 239k 8/10 Gone but not forgotten -1980 F250 4X4 351C Snowplow "The Beast" -1976 Caddy Eldo Convertible, in triple red. "Red headed Slut" -2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 loaded 107k, My first brand new car! *IM A HORRIBLE SPELLER* |
#12
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Sixto 87 300D |
#13
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As always thanks you for the insight.
what about the ringfor the ELR... i removed the 3 holddowns @ 3 & 9 oclock but i cant wiggle it out am i missing something here?
__________________
1987 300SDL "Rudolf" 239k 8/10 Gone but not forgotten -1980 F250 4X4 351C Snowplow "The Beast" -1976 Caddy Eldo Convertible, in triple red. "Red headed Slut" -2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 loaded 107k, My first brand new car! *IM A HORRIBLE SPELLER* |
#14
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oh, how do i remove the elr? i took the 2 screw/holddowns off that are ar 3 &9 o'clock but it wont wiggle out
__________________
1987 300SDL "Rudolf" 239k 8/10 Gone but not forgotten -1980 F250 4X4 351C Snowplow "The Beast" -1976 Caddy Eldo Convertible, in triple red. "Red headed Slut" -2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 loaded 107k, My first brand new car! *IM A HORRIBLE SPELLER* |
#15
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Thanks Sixto, its a keeper, I emailed it to myself for storage.
Thanks Harry |
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