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#1
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clorox as an algaecide
I am still fighting an algae problem after two bottles of startron, pulling and pressure washing the tank, changing fuel filters, and blowing out the fuel lines.
I just got off the phone with a spa specialist and he said that Clorox kills all algeas. Do you think it would harm the engine, also is a 3 qt. bottle to 15 gallons diesel/veggie oil to much clorox??
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http://www.libertyagrifuels.com 1984 300D Turbo 1980 300SD Sold 1983 300TD Sold Dagger 16 ft. Legend Canoe (for the weekends) Marin Northside Trail Mtn. Bike |
#2
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Perhaps its the Veggie supplier and not the car?
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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k ![]() 1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k ![]() 1980 240D Stick China 188k ![]() 2001 CLK55 AMG 101k ![]() 2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!! ![]() |
#3
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Clorox also has water in it.
I have no idea the toxic fumes emitted when it is run through the engine. Chlorine gas can kill.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D |
#4
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Chlorine bleach is primarily water, which you don't want in your fuel tank. I agree with Tyler, try using pure diesel (dino or bio or a bio-dino mix) and stay off the veggie oil for awhile, see if that helps.
It's interesting that some forum members continually have algae problems and some never do. (It's your deodorant!) Jeremy
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![]() "Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#5
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I run dewatered veg oil in my car and I don't make biodiesel.
I don't know of anyone around here who does but I will look around. Anyone else w/ ideas about clorox in the fuel tank?
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http://www.libertyagrifuels.com 1984 300D Turbo 1980 300SD Sold 1983 300TD Sold Dagger 16 ft. Legend Canoe (for the weekends) Marin Northside Trail Mtn. Bike |
#6
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Here is the thing Chlorox or sodium hypochlorite will kill just about anything but you don't ever use the stuff in enclosed spaces the fumes can kill, if you plan on disconnection the tank and making sure no lines are still hooked up then put in 2 bottles of the stuff fill the rest of the tank up with water and then allow to sit for ohhh lets say a few hours and then drain the tank and run compressed air through the tank then that might work, but the problem is the water left over. and after you let it dry and run compressed air (all of this being done while the tank is either out of the car or totally disconnected from the motor) you might want to invest in a garden sprayer (the kind you can get at lowes or homedepot and have to pump it up to spray) fill that with either pure ethanol or isoproply alcohol (sp) then spray the whole inside of the tank moving the spraying nozzle around as much as you can then let that dry. Again this still might not get rid of all the water. Use my untested idea at your own peril!
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#7
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Don't even think about it.
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#8
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Are you sure it's not gelled up veggie oil? What color is the gunk in your pre filter?
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon ![]() '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#9
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Perhaps the problem is not algae but polymerized veg oil in the stock diesel tank, which is reactive with WVO. In one tank systems, or even without completely isolated fuel systems (i.e., separate filters and a purge cycle to the veg tank, not the diesel) veg oil will eventually polymerize, coat the tank and bits will come off and act like a fungus/bacteria infection. Startron won't help, nor will biocides. I had exactly the same issues after about three years of running a two tank system, only with small amounts of veg oil getting into the diesel tank due to the way my purge was set up. The only way to solve the problem is to clean the tank (mine was completely coated with plasticky polymerized oil) and completely isolate your fuel systems with the veg oil in some kind of non-reactive tank and diesel only in the diesel tank. My WVO tank is a heavy duty water holding tank scavenged from a camper. I installed a third valve to allow purging back to the veg oil tank. This may not be your problem, but I offer the suggestion because I spent a lot of time trying to solve the problem with startron and biocides. I did not try bleach.
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1983 CD 1958 Studebaker Packard (being resuscitated) |
#10
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Quote:
On this subject, I can absolutely agree with other posts and say - Clorox is for the spa, washing machine and for cleaning mold off the gutters prior to painting the house --- should not even be close to the fuel tank of any vehicle!! I do consultant work in the Heavy Truck/Commercial Vehicle industry, and a year or so back was involved in a project for NCDOT - They, as many States and Municipalities are using more and more BioD and now the ULSD issue...In reference to NCDOT they were having major issues with fuel --- Algae, fuel separation in the tanks...and the list goes on and on. They totally destroyed some brand new Ford PowerStrokes due to fuel issues. With NC, it also involved stationary engines - i.e., and in particular with the prison systems...prisons have back up generators and tap the same fuel contract and source, and back up gens very rarely get used and have no method of 'stirring' the fuel.... I believe I have pictures of injectors pulled from a generator at a prison facility near Albemarle, NC ---- OMG..you would not believe what had grown on the injectors and in the pumps. The issue was solved after involving a company in Buffalo, NY called E-Zoil - The dude that owns and formulates their products is a Polymer Chemist and has developed some amazing products! The project included engineers from Stanadyne and Bosch....That project totally convinced me that the "correct" fuel additives are an absolute "NO-BRAINER" and IN MY OPINION should without a doubt be used, year round, regardless of where you live. And when I say correct additives, as you know avoid anything with alcohol (ex: Power Service). The ULSD actually has less lubricity than the old version of (LS) fuel...it's even more critical to run an additive due the 'unstable' feature of ULSD. I witnessed, and was involved in documenting lab tests of many differant brands of additivies and it's amazing the differances..... Now you'll understand why I've historically avoided the subject of Deisel Additives, and when comments are made negatively about them ---- It was a great experience and an honest learning experience that's worth tons!! So with all my rambling on a very passionate subject ---- YOU should definitely consider changing the source of your fuel...especially after using a good Bio and shocking the fuel, and using a correct fuel additive. And yes --- the problem was solved for NCDOT...They buy and use Diesel-Aid from the Buffalo based company.
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71Inka02 62 W121 190DB - Original CA/AZ Car - Excellent Example ![]() ![]() 99 E300 Turbo Diesel - 362,000...Awesome Daily Driver 01 E320 Wagon - 297,xxx (wife's work car) 01 E320 Wagon - 131,000 02 Land Rover Disco SE- 110,000 87 BMW 325is (E30) Full Restore - Son's 06 Mini Cooper 'S' - Son's 87 Toyota FJ60 Land Cruiser - Showroom Condition - 152,000 84 300D - 142,xxx ![]() 83 300D-"Sold" - 211,456 ![]() ![]() 85 300SD-"Sold" - 213,789 ![]() ![]() Last edited by 71inka02; 12-10-2008 at 01:37 PM. |
#11
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Clorox bleach is 6.5% Sodium Hypochlorite, and 93.5% water. You do not want either in your tank.
Sodium Hypochlorite is a salt, corrosive to metals. It is also a strong oxydizer, corrosive to organics such as rubber. Your fuel system is made almost exclusively of metal and rubber, see the connection? The problem will be not just killing the bacteria in the tank, but the substantial amount of carcasses they leave behind. A good biocide (Mercedes recommends Biobor) will kill and prevent the re-infestation of the fuel system, but it will still need proper cleaning. With the tank disconnected, you can possibly clean with something like chlorine, wash/rinse thoroughly and dry before re-connecting. I had to do this on a 265gallon tank in my motorhome which involved dropping the tank and having it cut open, pressure-washing and re-welding the 1/4" thick tank wall. Best of luck, and as others have mentioned, it is likely time to change your fuel supplier.
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![]() Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#12
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Fungus, not algae.
Use a Biocide agent. Be prepared to change filters on the fly as needed.
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Terry Allison N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama 09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA) 09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.) |
#13
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I found out long time ago,don't use your stock tank for wvo.Make or buy a boat tank for your wvo.Metal tank and wvo make a chicken skin,that clogs screen and primary filters.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt |
#14
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Quote:
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__________________
71Inka02 62 W121 190DB - Original CA/AZ Car - Excellent Example ![]() ![]() 99 E300 Turbo Diesel - 362,000...Awesome Daily Driver 01 E320 Wagon - 297,xxx (wife's work car) 01 E320 Wagon - 131,000 02 Land Rover Disco SE- 110,000 87 BMW 325is (E30) Full Restore - Son's 06 Mini Cooper 'S' - Son's 87 Toyota FJ60 Land Cruiser - Showroom Condition - 152,000 84 300D - 142,xxx ![]() 83 300D-"Sold" - 211,456 ![]() ![]() 85 300SD-"Sold" - 213,789 ![]() ![]() |
#15
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Every calls it algae, but its either fungus or bacteria, or a mixture of both. Algae is a green plant...needs sun, not diesel.
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1983 CD 1958 Studebaker Packard (being resuscitated) |
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