"A load leveler is the only way to go. But cut off that stupid little crank, weld on a nut and use your 1/2 in ratchet, much easier. I used one of those long nuts, about a 3/4 or 7/8 don`t remember."

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

My 2 cents.. I would leave the tranny in the car if it has an automatic. The 240D bellhousing bolts are very easy to get at (even tops from under the hood) and re-connecting the trans to the engine is fairly easily when the flex plate and torque converter bolts holes are at the 6 o'clock position. A Manual trans on the other hand would rather take it out as a unit with a load leveler.

I've done both ways and I don't mind leaving the tranny in the car.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Thanks for the helpful advice.
Today I got through all of the preparatory steps in the Haynes manual up to disconnecting the driveshaft. I didn't run into any serious problems; I just hated to discharge my AC since it has been working well. I have heard that there is a way to do it without disconnecting the AC but I could not for the life of me see how. I think I could have easily done it all in one day except I had to help some inlaws move. Tomorrow I will finish getting it ready to come out and hopefully rent a hoist.

Just wanted to close the loop on this.
I got the engine out with the transmission on, trying to do it like the Haynes manual says. Although I was successful, it was not without problems. Based on the replies from members who obviously have a lot of experience at this, I could have also removed the transmission first. So here are some notes in case anybody else is doing this for the first time, without any expert help on hand:
1. If you remove the engine and transmission together, you need a "leveler" or some way other than just a chain to get the tilt right. I had a lot of trouble with this, and would have been better off (with my low level of experience) separating the transmission first, as some of the members suggested. When I did get the tilt right, the lift I rented would not go high enough to clear the front piece on the car. So, I had to lever up the lift on bricks to get it high enough.
2. When I put them back in, I will put in the engine and transmission separately.
3. I would have removed the AC compressor and maybe the power steering pump beforehand. This would not be that hard to do and would have given me some more room.
4. Haynes says to remove the hood. This is not necessary.

All in all, even though I spent more time than I should have, it was successful, and I appreciate all of the advice.

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Glad too hear you made the "extraction". Having an adjustable spreader bar is almost a "must" as suggested by several folks. Thanks for an update, its always nice to hear the conclusion to the story.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"