started working on a throttle cable. I'm just using a bicycle brake cable.

http://jason.pepas.com/photos/gm-ben...e_IMG_7060.JPG

http://jason.pepas.com/photos/gm-ben...e_IMG_7061.JPG

went to the hardware store to find a nut for the cable stops to thread into. I think it was a 10mm nut.

http://jason.pepas.com/photos/gm-ben...e_IMG_7062.JPG

made the cable bracket out of bed frame angle iron.

http://jason.pepas.com/photos/gm-ben...e_IMG_7093.JPG

http://jason.pepas.com/photos/gm-ben...e_IMG_7094.JPG

Something about the cable makes me nervous. I'm not sure how you will have enough slack to be able to use the shutdown in case of an emergency. Have you figured out how to make the throttle pedal pull on the cable in the cab? Anyway to use the stock Mercedes throttle assembly off the original cars firewall, then you could use the cable setup as the shutoff Gorilla knob???

Nice work with the scrap metal and MIG! Bed framing? Its one of my favorites as you can typically get the stuff free.

Yes, you need to be able to quicly disconnect that cabe so you can use the stop lever in an emergency. I suggest using one of the slotted cable holes below the stop lever.

Well, if there is enough travel in the pedal to allow it, and you don't mind a little dead spot right off idle, you could run the cable right through that stop lever and still have enough slack to push it for emergency shut-down.

And bed frames are one of my favourite sources of scrap metal. I got all excited when we found two bed frames in the attic after buying out house. I have many plans for those bed frames. :)

Have you considered a gas pedal assy. from an early 70's dodge? The pedal, bracket, and mount all come together and you just need two holes in the firewall for the studs to go through and one for the cable. The cable has kind of a clevis end on it and would be pretty easy to attach. They are also cheap and easy to find.

yeah, that was my plan -- sacrifice about a half inch of dead travel in the accelerator so that I can still shut it off.

actually, now that I think about it, I'll need a return spring anyway, and that will take up the extra slack which I allow for the emergency stop. so when the emergency stop is pressed, the pedal will actually come up about half an inch, but no one will be in the cab to see it :)

I had thought about using the cruise control cable slots, but they are so far down on the lever arm that they only move about an inch for the entire throw of the accelerator, so I would either have to mount my cable way down on the gas pedal arm, or my gas pedal would be very sensitive.

thanks for all the advice guys, its really helpful to get all of these perspectives to consider.

oh, and my dash does in fact have a choke knob, so I think I'll use that to add a shutdown cable.

Oh yeah... A return spring. I guess I managed to forget about that until you mentioned it.

Now, about that sensitive pedal. When I drove my 300D, I figured out pretty quick that for everyday driving, there are only two required pedal positions. At least, that's how it seemed. :D I must be too used to gassers. For only having full throttle or no throttle, they sure gave those pedals a lot of travel. :lol:

is that a '68 or '69 C10?

Those trucks look amazing with the quarter windows deleted. Look on 73-87.comhttp://www.73-87.com and they have the kit it is about $600 with custom glass.

Thats gonna be one killer truck after paint.

another note on oil cooler line fittings:

This pdf appears to be a Gates catalog: http://www.royalbrassandhose.com/catpdf/RBH%20Hydraulic%20Section%201-128.pdf

On page 70 you can see the 90 degree fitting I used (G25655-0815) which they list as an M22x1.5 "Female DIN 24 degree Cone Swivel with O-Ring".

What you really want appears to be a "ball nose" style fitting. In this GoodYear catalog, you can see "ball nose" fittings in M22x1.5 size. Part "1C543-15-8" appears to be the direct ball nose equivalent of the 90 degree Gates fitting I mentioned above.

http://www.goodyearrubberproducts.com/files/Parker/ParkerHydHoseCatalog4400/ParkerHydHoseCatalog44001.Page086.pdf

http://jason.pepas.com/photos/oddsandends/ballnose.png

go2marine.com appears to have them for $35 (ouch...).

The straight oil cooler fittings I used were Gates part "g25645-0815". The Goodyear Ball Nose equivalent appears to be "1C343-15-8".

go2marine.com appears to have them for $16.

I just noticed that the guy who put two OM617's in his boat used the same style fittings I did (the 24 degree cone style), so I guess they do work: http://www.coastalboatsales.com/jfraley/gallery/scubaboo/IMG_1947

got the other half of the accelerator cable bracket fabricated. I basically just replaced the rear engine pulling tab bracket with my own bracket.

http://jason.pepas.com/photos/gm-ben...e_IMG_7098.JPG

here is a (poorly lit) video of the cable working. this was taken from inside the cab, pushing on the "gas" pedal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlU7wdKfves

here is another video showing that the kickdown linkage is moving correctly on the side of the transmission (its pretty hard to see, its on the right side of the tranny). is this what people call the bowden cable? for me its actually a rod rather than a cable.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udTzXOmGEdc

Looks promising to me. Have you verified that the emergency shutdown feature is still going to work? I'd be drinking beer and patting myself on the back by now.
:)

bowden cable
 

I dont the bowden cable setup was used until 81, what is the vacuum line T, did you bypass the switchover valve altogether?

that's actually a tee off the boost line running from the manifold to the ALDA. I ran a boost gauge off of it. I've been surprised that those little spring clamps hold that tee together under pressure.

more to post about later today or tomorrow -- got the glow plugs jerry-rigged up. throttle cable works. blew the my oil gauge hose off (didn't use stock size) and coated two of the walls of my garage with pitch black rotella T. got that cleaned up, then proceeded to knock the (temporary) fuel return line out of the fuel tank and pump about a gallon of diesel onto the floor of my garage. fun fun fun.

Its so close now I can taste it...

I did some more performance comparisons. this time I used some digitization software, which allows you to turn a torque graph into x and y coordinates. then you can plug it into excel and create a common graph which shows all of the engines you want to compare.

I decided to compare the chevy inline 6 (292) which was my original truck motor, to the mercedes om617, the cummins 4bt, as well as the vw 1.9 tdi. I wanted to throw in the cummins 6bt as well, but oddly enough I couldn't find a torque graph for it.

torque (ft-lbs):

http://jason.pepas.com/photos/oddsan...el-torques.png

and power (hp):

http://jason.pepas.com/photos/oddsan...esel-power.png

interestingly, it appears the cummins 4bt would feel *exactly* like my 292 from 800 to 2000 rpm.

The background lighting and smoke in the video makes it look like your a mad scientist creating something dubious... Kind of cool in an artistic way.