Ideas on preventing fires?

[argus445]

I've seen like 4-5 posts on cars catching fire 2 theorys seem to be harness and blower motor any ideas suggestions on things do to minimize the chance of having such a lose?

[matthias08]

i know... i'm like :O

[Actros617]

have a fire extinguisher ready with you, and prepare to break stuff to get the fire...

[compress ignite]

Mercedes moved the Blower Fuse for the very reason described.
(AND to prevent any more Unauthorized Under-Hood Bar-B-Ques)
[Fuse and Holder got moved to the Driver's side shock tower]
'Credit to GSXR for this kit explanation and picture

Please note "Kit" has MB# 126 540 30 13 part number, Probably denoting first use in
a W126 chassis...I'll bet it's also adaptable to W123 easily!

Don't throw lit matches on the carpet.

[Jeremy5848]

Make sure all fuses are the correct size. If a fuse blows, don't put in a larger size or wire it solid. When working on the car, inspect the area you're in for damaged wires, missing insulation, etc., that could cause a short-circuit. If you install a big stereo, extra lights, etc., use a separate power-carrying relay and appropriate fuses. Carry a fire extinguisher in the passenger compartment rather than in the trunk – if the car is rear-ended, you may not be able to get into the trunk.

[DSlater]

My takeaways from the most recent thread of horror were:

1 - Bypass, unplug or put 1 amp fuse on the aux water pump
2 - Put a 20(?) amp fuse on the blower
3 - Install an emergency battery quick-disconnect
4 - Carry at least one extinguisher, halon-esque and/or normal if you have #3, normal not optional with no #3
5 - Make sure that while the extinguisher is handy, it is rated for storage at the temps it will be subjected to in your chosen location(s)

[pawoSD]

You could pipe a large foam extinguisher into a couple places in the dash using hose etc....then in the event of a problem just trigger it and it'd fill the dash with flame retardant foam. Huge mess to clean up, but better than the car burning down IMHO.

Or, carry several different extinguishers. I need to get myself a couple Halon units for our cars....in addition to the normal auto-extinguisher. Can never have too many!

[charmalu]

Make sure you don`t create a missle hazard when installing the extinguisher inside the cabin in the event of an accident. be sure it is well secured.

Iam not positive, but I think Halon is no longer available because of environmental reasons.

Charlie

[pawoSD]

Halon is still out there, its used in computer data centers and such because it won't hurt electronics.

[Dee8go]

Thanks. I never worried about this before. Now I have something new to obsess about . . ..

[::matthew]

there are other "clean" fire extinguishers out there, including CO2...not sure what's best for a dash fire. Halon hasn't been produced in years, so any remaining supply would be quite expensive.

[Dee8go]

Clean? You mean not leaving some sort of residue? Is that harmful or just unattractive if you don't clean it out?

[vstech]

a CO2 fire extinguisher is quite expensive, and VERY BULKY. but worth it. CO2 extinguishers are much heavier than dry chem or foam because of the extra pressure they must withstand.

[babymog]

Fire extinguishers 101.

Halon is my extinguisher of choice for automobile fires, when applicable. Starves the fire of oxygen.

The good: No residue and no damage to components, can stop an engine also. Supposed to be safe for occupants if discharged in enclosed spaces, and doesn't cause significant visibility problems. Omnidirectional as it smothers fire in hidden spaces, up/down/sideways, fills the air.

The bad: It is the most expensive to buy and recharge and doesn't work well outdoors and in wind. If a fire can re-ignite, the halon is fairly quickly dissipated and ineffective.

CO2 is also good also:

Leaves no residue (similar to Halon) and can be used in enclosed spaces (somewhat). Cheaper than Halon. Heavier than air but rapid expansion tends to fill all spaces quickly to put out a fire, provided there isn't a continuing source (red-hot metal against combustible materials will re-ignite when the air clears, need to continue extinguishing).

Bad: Same as Halon except more reasonable price, can cause temporary fog/visibility problem

Foam: Not recommended for electrical fires as it can be conductive, not an issue on low-voltage (12v) though IMO Works by smothering the fire and stays on top of the fuel to prevent re-ignition. The best IMO for flammable liquids and a definate yes for tire fires (nearly impossible to put out). Messy, but effective. The liquid in the foam also tends to remove some of the heat from the source which decreases somewhat the possibility of re-ignition. Tire fires usually need lots of foam or water (and are dangerous as they explode, stay clear of 120psi truck tires). Burning fiberglass is similar to a tire as it is mostly fuel and expands as it burns, foam and water are about all that can put these fires out.

Dry Chem: Most of these are a caustic mess, when used on an engine it needs to be gotten out as soon as possible or it'll corrode everything. Same with electronics etc. As a powder under pressure, it goes everywhere and makes a huge mess, also is not good to use in enclosed spaces and causes visibility issues (if you're trying to put something out while finding a place to pull off of the road for example). The most cost-effective and best universal extinguisher, provided the mess isn't worse than the fire. Can't stop an engine with it (at least not temporarily) and it won't put out a tire fire. It does like gravity, so it is best on a fire that it can smother from above. It tends to stay put once it is dispensed on a fire so keeps fires out. I've used it on flaming gasoline floating on a pond (training) and it covers the gasoline so that vapors can't escape and re-ignite, a very effective material and will tend to keep hot surfaces smothered for longer than most other methods. Most times the source will cool before it is able to get enough oxygen to re-ignite.