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#16
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The '81 thru '93 with 14 pin connector store the speed digitally in a counter IC. I have yet to find a schematic for any year. They seem to be a little more reliable than the earlier 11 pin analog CC amps but not by much. They are not interchangable.
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Ron Schroeder '85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO '83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980: '83 Mercedes 240D '80 Audi 4000D '83 ISUZU Pup '70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel '76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel '86 Golf Several diesel generators All with 2 tank WVO conversion LI NY |
#17
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Question re VDO ????
Am I correct in assuming that VDO is the designer and manufacturer for this PC board - both versions (the analog and the digital)??
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Dionysius |
#18
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I'd have to believe most failures are due to overcurrent draw from bad motors, bad caps, and corrosion/bad joints. Not necessarily in that order.
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) Last edited by mplafleur; 01-20-2009 at 09:58 PM. |
#19
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I am working on a schematic now. I only knew about the 14-pin, so we will be tackling that for now.
All in all, I am hoping it's just caps. It would be pretty easy to swap them out. Again, with the 14-pin, the failure does one of two things. Doesn't catch the current speed when you flip the switch, and will speed up if you hold the switch down. The other makes the car speed up quickly when you flip the switch. I have only seen that once, and come to think of it, it might have caused the amp to fail when it did. Who knows...I really don't remember the sequence of events as it was a while back. Anyways, for now I am working on more background info.
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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much) Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior |
#20
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PM sent. Put me in line when you feel like you have a grasp on the fix. Thanks!
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Scott 1983 300D Turbo |
#21
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Quote:
I have 3 (and counting) not-working amps for W123. I would love to try and replace aforementioned caps as an experiment. Would it be difficult to list specs for these caps ?
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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 Last edited by rhodes2010; 01-23-2009 at 01:08 AM. |
#22
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When you say flip the switch, do you mean setting the cruise speed by hitting the decel or accel switch?
When you do this, you capture the voltage generated by the speed sensor circuit on capacitor C19. This one is the most likely to be bad. It's the .1uF electrolytic standing up in the far corner next to the rectangular .2uF cap.
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#23
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I think my circuit board is fried on mine, it's warm to the touch at all times. I took a cell phone shot of the back of it, but I'm pretty sure it's fried. You tell me though, I have no idea, I'd be interested in this as well if it looks repairable! I'm fearing for the worse though...
Last edited by whunter; 03-21-2009 at 01:04 PM. |
#24
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You definitely fried something in there. How about a shot of the other side? That is different from the one I have in my car, so I wouldn't be able to test it. At this point though, it's impossible to tell if you just blew a resister, or what...let alone if it destroyed anything else in there.
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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much) Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior |
#25
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Quote:
Thanks for the pointers. I haven't been able to take a look at any of that info yet. It's been a busy week.
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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much) Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior |
#26
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Quote:
It looks dead though, and the "warm to the touch" feeling is a bit concerning as far as proving it's super dead. It's in Norm, the 1980 300TD. |
#27
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It doesn't look like yours died like the rest of ours. Most amps there isn't any physical evidence showing failure.
It's a real pain to get in and out of there...you can't give up with anything on these cars, there is always some pain in the butt obstacle to get over.
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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much) Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior |
#28
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You know what, I made a bonehead mistake and that is the Climate Control amp if I'm not mistaken. I was looking at them on Fastlane, and was like "Hey...that's not a cruise control amplifier!!"
Horray, I fail. But then again, I think I know why my AC doesn't work now!!! |
#29
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GO TO THIS SITE REGARDING CRUISE CONTROL OPERATION & REPAIR
http://gdl-online.com/differences.html |
#30
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Quote:
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
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