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  #16  
Old 01-24-2009, 07:04 PM
imagesinthewind's Avatar
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Really bulletproof?
Or just really good undercoating that we call bulletproof?

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  #17  
Old 01-24-2009, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imagesinthewind View Post
Really bulletproof?
Or just really good undercoating that we call bulletproof?
I've heard stories about this. Without heating it up and scraping it off of the joint, chances are that you're bend a fender before you can pull it off. I have never removed one of these "glued-down" fenders personally, but it sounds like a real PITA. To add insult to injury, most pull-it-yourself salvage yards won't let you in with a torch, which is what you really need to be able to pull a fender on these cars.

I'm pondering whether a block of dry ice could be used to embrittle the stuff long enough to shatter it off with controlled hammer blows. No rules against dry ice in the salvage yard that I know of.
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  #18  
Old 01-24-2009, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rs899 View Post
on any w116 and w123s up to about 1981 or 2 mb extended the bulletproof undercoating up under the fenders. That means you will need either a torch or a heat gun (at least ) to shift front fenders.

Rick
ugh
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Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
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  #19  
Old 01-24-2009, 11:30 PM
daw_two's Avatar
diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAdams4458 View Post
I've heard stories about this. Without heating it up and scraping it off of the joint, chances are that you're bend a fender before you can pull it off. I have never removed one of these "glued-down" fenders personally, but it sounds like a real PITA. To add insult to injury, most pull-it-yourself salvage yards won't let you in with a torch, which is what you really need to be able to pull a fender on these cars.

I'm pondering whether a block of dry ice could be used to embrittle the stuff long enough to shatter it off with controlled hammer blows. No rules against dry ice in the salvage yard that I know of.

Maybe, I'll have to go on a really COLD day....and wear a BIG coat.
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Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
Cluster Needles Paint
New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more
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  #20  
Old 01-24-2009, 11:59 PM
Squiggle Dog's Avatar
https://fintail.org
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Surprise, AZ, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAdams4458 View Post
I've heard stories about this. Without heating it up and scraping it off of the joint, chances are that you're bend a fender before you can pull it off. I have never removed one of these "glued-down" fenders personally, but it sounds like a real PITA. To add insult to injury, most pull-it-yourself salvage yards won't let you in with a torch, which is what you really need to be able to pull a fender on these cars.

I'm pondering whether a block of dry ice could be used to embrittle the stuff long enough to shatter it off with controlled hammer blows. No rules against dry ice in the salvage yard that I know of.
Ha! No wonder I couldn't get those perfect Milan Brown fenders off of the W116 parts car I had. I had every bolt off and they still wouldn't budge.

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