Does anyone out there know if Homokenetic Axles for a 126 are fatter that then 123 Axles?
Here is the a site showing how to replace the boot; uses a different tool but you can see how much the fb3001 will stretch about 11 pics down from the top.
http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedesaxleshaftbootreplace.htm

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I have a 1983 300D Turbo and im replacing the rear axles. But I dont know which oone to buy. Theres two choices. One is the homokinetic type that has an output shaft . And the other is the Annular Joint that is without an input shaft. How can I tell which type I have so I know which one to get?

You can use either type axle on your 83 300D.

The Homokenetic axle is a one piece.

The Annular axle is a two piece, with a stub that fits into the Diff., and on the out side of the Diff. is about 6 bolts that holt the two parts together.
The good part with these type is, next time they need replaced the Diff. doesn`t have to come apart.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I just replaced the flexx boots on my 84 300SD using the funnel method. It does take 2 people to get the flexx boot over the can. I oiled the funnel up with motor oil and the boots wipe the oil off completely each time you install a boot. You need to fold the wide end of the boot and use cloth rags to pull on and the other person is pushing from the top down. The temperature was 50 ish out when we did this. Here is the link to the Utube video. The people in NY that sell the flexx boots also have a funnel designed for this. Only do it from the small can end which means that you have to invert one of the boots other wise it will be faceing the wrong direction. DO NOT cut the boots shorter before installation--don't ask how I know.

http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesaxleshaftbootreplace.htm
http://www.youtube.com/v/F17tFS6ofzU

Hope this helps, after seeing the video, I decided the Flexx Gun was over kill for someone who is only going to do this once in a blue moon.

Also you will need some method to clamp the clamp rings onto the can and axel. I bought the correct crimping tool for $10.00 and it broke on the 1st crimp, after that we used dikes carefully positioned. The second recommendation I will make is do not expand the boot down the axel keep the small axel portion as close to the can as possible while reinstalling the axel. Both of my boots on the differential side tore while trying to get the axel into the wheel side of the A arm. This all happened after I got the C clips back in on the axel and the diff cover sealed back on. I had to take everything apart in order to reboot both axels a second time. Fortunately I had order 8 boots the 1st time because I also had a spare set of axels I was going to do at the same time.

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Gary
OBK #37

The Homokenetic axles rebuilt or new seem to be more available and less expensive.

So far I have not read anything about the Annular ones functioning better than the Homokenetic ones.

The New made in China Axles are Homokenetic.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I was not able to follow what exactly tore the boots from the above description.
When I installed my Axles I had to compress the Joints into each other to get the Splined end into the Wheel Bearing Hub. So the need to expand the Boot down the Axel is drawing a blank with me.
However, I can see how it might be possible to get the Boot Pinched durin part of the process.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am not sure what caused the boots to tear, but when I repalced them and pushed the small end, the part directly on the axel, back toward the can then reinstalled they did not tear. The tear was away from the clamp by about 3/4" towards the small end. The boots were not pinched, I hung the ends of the axel from the anti sway bar with solid house wire.

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Gary
OBK #37

Maybe it would be a good idea not to tighten the small end clamp until the Axles are installed.

I am throwing this out there for any one who has experience with Silicone Boots:
I also noticed in the past when I was looking up the Flexx Boots that they make similar Boots but from Silicone instead of the Black Rubber. They said that they were for high heat areas; for the side of the Axle that is closest to the Engine on front wheel drive Cars.
I do not know how well they would stretch but I was thinking that the Silicone will not crack as it gets older like the Rubber will.
If any one has info on them pleas post.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I think mines are the anular type, since it has a large disk similar to a disc brake rotor there.

are those less hassle than the homokinetic style?
anular type no need to pull the back cover of the diff to remove the C clip?
TIA

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