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  #1  
Old 02-09-2009, 10:53 AM
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Really?!

For the last year and a half I've own this car (my first diesel) I've religiously warmed the engine no matter the temperature of the day. I thought it was a good thing with diesels to let them get to the 80C mark before putting them to work. If I've been wrong this whole time, I've got some girlfriend apologizing to do ...
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  #2  
Old 02-09-2009, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcoffelt View Post
For the last year and a half I've own this car (my first diesel) I've religiously warmed the engine no matter the temperature of the day. I thought it was a good thing with diesels to let them get to the 80C mark before putting them to work. If I've been wrong this whole time, I've got some girlfriend apologizing to do ...
Your not really wrong, it's just a waste of energy and isn't necessarily beneficial to the engine to do this. 80C is normal operating temperature and means the engine should be in this range for normal driving since it was designed to be most efficient at this temp. Once your sender hits 40C and begins to move, your engine is getting warm and should be good enough for driving at this point. Just try to keep the rpm below 2000 by driving away gently and let it warm up graciously for the first few minutes and you should be fine.

Diesel engines don't like or tolerate hard driving or high RPM's when they are cold because they run on compression alone.
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  #3  
Old 10-22-2009, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcoffelt View Post
For the last year and a half I've own this car (my first diesel) I've religiously warmed the engine no matter the temperature of the day. I thought it was a good thing with diesels to let them get to the 80C mark before putting them to work. If I've been wrong this whole time, I've got some girlfriend apologizing to do ...
LOl. my neigh gaybors would hate me. therefore i should do this.
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  #4  
Old 10-23-2009, 06:53 PM
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Sounds cool in theory but you don't want to idle a diesel too long. The lower speed = lower combustion temperatures which = unburned fuel washing your cylinder walls of oil and creating the right environment to score your pistons and also diluting your oil.
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  #5  
Old 02-09-2009, 10:15 AM
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and just 3 minutes of actually driving and you would have been at 80C...
tsk tsk...
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  #6  
Old 02-09-2009, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by vstech View Post
and just 3 minutes of actually driving and you would have been at 80C...
Thats exactly my point.
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  #7  
Old 10-22-2009, 11:43 AM
Craig
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I thought about putting a remote start on mine but decided it was more trouble (and complexity) than it was worth.

I have a block heater and normally plug it in if it's below about 10F, if I happen to be near an outlet.

When traveling, I will let the car warm up for a few minutes if it's very cold (while I check out of the hotel and get some coffee). It's nice to have the heater and defroster working before driving away. It will heat up enough to give significant heat at idle.

Just use some common sense, don't leave it idling for extended amounts of time without a good reason.
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  #8  
Old 10-23-2009, 08:46 PM
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If you really want a warm cabin, why don't you get a 12 dcv ceramic heater that plugs into your lighter?

I've got one of these. We had our worst winter ever last year, and believe me... the little lady I was dating was in love with it.
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2009, 02:06 PM
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The biggest problem with a remote start on our diesels is the tach input.

-Almost any remote start system requires a tachometer input.
-Almost any diesel Mercedes has a very flakey tachometer.

Most remote start systems must "learn" the tach signal for two things. Crank speed, and idle speed.

This is required so the remote starter knows when the engine is running, and will then stop sending juice to the starter.


Since us diesel fans have been blessed with some of the worst tachometers.. I would suggest doing a thourogh check of the entire tach system before installing a remote start that requires a tach input.

If that tach decides to stop working one cold winter day, it's possible that the remote start will crank until your starter gives up.
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  #10  
Old 10-25-2009, 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by nickofoxford View Post
[B]
If that tach decides to stop working one cold winter day, it's possible that the remote start will crank until your starter gives up.
That is not how they work. Most of them will only crank for a limited amount of time....with it maxing out at under 10 seconds usually....it is configurable on most systems I have seen. My father in law actually was having issues on his Dodge 5.9 (gasser) truck because it cranked too briefly to start up half the time. (only a second or two) He had to increase its "sensitivity" to cranking to get it to start properly.

Honestly I think the whole remote start thing is a huge waste of fuel and bad for the engine....and that people that need it to "warm the car up" are total wimps.

If its so cold, wear some cool driving gloves, goggles and a nice big coat. Be rugged! I've had it so cold out that I got my fingers frozen to the chrome on my W126's door when I touched it. And I still survive just fine.

When its real cold I just drive slowly/gentle for the first couple miles....and will let it idle maybe 30-60 seconds before I drive away. (longer if I am clearing snow off of it)
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  #11  
Old 10-26-2009, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by destroy View Post
If you really want a warm cabin, why don't you get a 12 dcv ceramic heater that plugs into your lighter?

I've got one of these. We had our worst winter ever last year, and believe me... the little lady I was dating was in love with it.
Cold+constant battery drain= late to work and lots of jump starts
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  #12  
Old 10-24-2009, 02:31 PM
Craig
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I guess mine didn't come with the optional flaky tach.
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  #13  
Old 10-24-2009, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig View Post
I guess mine didn't come with the optional flaky tach.

Man you should play the lottery!


I got so sick of looking at my tach going into convulsions and playing dead that I replaced the tach/clock part of my cluster with a full size clock from an '80 240D
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  #14  
Old 10-24-2009, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by nickofoxford View Post
Man you should play the lottery!


I got so sick of looking at my tach going into convulsions and playing dead that I replaced the tach/clock part of my cluster with a full size clock from an '80 240D
Naw, I just replaced the amp the first time it acted up. It's been perfect for about 8 years and 350k miles.
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  #15  
Old 10-25-2009, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Craig View Post
Naw, I just replaced the amp the first time it acted up. It's been perfect for about 8 years and 350k miles.

I wish it was that easy for me, the P.O had mutilated the wires for the amp mount and the sender at the crank is dead. I gave up on it for now.

Not like I need a tach on an automatic anyway..
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