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#1
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Really?!
For the last year and a half I've own this car (my first diesel) I've religiously warmed the engine no matter the temperature of the day. I thought it was a good thing with diesels to let them get to the 80C mark before putting them to work. If I've been wrong this whole time, I've got some girlfriend apologizing to do ...
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1981 300SD, odometer stopped at 188,000 |
#2
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Quote:
![]() Diesel engines don't like or tolerate hard driving or high RPM's when they are cold because they run on compression alone. ![]() |
#3
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Quote:
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Paul Benz-less ![]() I need an SDL ! |
#4
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Sounds cool in theory but you don't want to idle a diesel too long. The lower speed = lower combustion temperatures which = unburned fuel washing your cylinder walls of oil and creating the right environment to score your pistons and also diluting your oil.
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#5
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and just 3 minutes of actually driving and you would have been at 80C...
tsk tsk...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#6
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Thats exactly my point.
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#7
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I thought about putting a remote start on mine but decided it was more trouble (and complexity) than it was worth.
I have a block heater and normally plug it in if it's below about 10F, if I happen to be near an outlet. When traveling, I will let the car warm up for a few minutes if it's very cold (while I check out of the hotel and get some coffee). It's nice to have the heater and defroster working before driving away. It will heat up enough to give significant heat at idle. Just use some common sense, don't leave it idling for extended amounts of time without a good reason. |
#8
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If you really want a warm cabin, why don't you get a 12 dcv ceramic heater that plugs into your lighter?
I've got one of these. We had our worst winter ever last year, and believe me... the little lady I was dating was in love with it.
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1981 300SD - 283,000 KM's at purchase, 360k+ now. Engine replaced at 311k. 16" CLK wheels, w126 gen II cosmetic upgrades, late w126 leather interior. RIP. Parted and gone due to fire ![]() 1987 300SDL - 243K miles and counting. In winter hibernation! 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty "Platinum Edition" Lariat 4x4 7.3L turbo diesel, 295k+ miles, various mods for reliability and performance. |
#9
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The biggest problem with a remote start on our diesels is the tach input.
-Almost any remote start system requires a tachometer input. -Almost any diesel Mercedes has a very flakey tachometer. Most remote start systems must "learn" the tach signal for two things. Crank speed, and idle speed. This is required so the remote starter knows when the engine is running, and will then stop sending juice to the starter. Since us diesel fans have been blessed with some of the worst tachometers.. I would suggest doing a thourogh check of the entire tach system before installing a remote start that requires a tach input. If that tach decides to stop working one cold winter day, it's possible that the remote start will crank until your starter gives up. |
#10
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Honestly I think the whole remote start thing is a huge waste of fuel and bad for the engine....and that people that need it to "warm the car up" are total wimps. ![]() If its so cold, wear some cool driving gloves, goggles and a nice big coat. ![]() ![]() ![]() When its real cold I just drive slowly/gentle for the first couple miles....and will let it idle maybe 30-60 seconds before I drive away. (longer if I am clearing snow off of it)
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#11
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Cold+constant battery drain= late to work and lots of jump starts
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1987 300D 180k 1985 300SD 330k Helga 1992 300D Lola 269k- Sold 1986 325 coupe Bessie >300k Original engine(ODO Broke) sold 2006 2500HD Druamax Linda- Tows boat and looks pretty in garage thats about it ![]() |
#12
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I guess mine didn't come with the optional flaky tach.
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#13
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Man you should play the lottery! ![]() I got so sick of looking at my tach going into convulsions and playing dead that I replaced the tach/clock part of my cluster with a full size clock from an '80 240D |
#14
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Naw, I just replaced the amp the first time it acted up. It's been perfect for about 8 years and 350k miles.
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#15
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I wish it was that easy for me, the P.O had mutilated the wires for the amp mount and the sender at the crank is dead. I gave up on it for now. Not like I need a tach on an automatic anyway.. |
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