How hard is main seal R&R on 82 240D, w/AC
 

How hard is main seal R&R on 240D? Any special tools needed?

Lots of discussions of this in the archives... probably why there have not been other answers posted...
I would read the FSM and the Haynes instructions before starting the process....

You must remove the motor and partically take it apart to replace the rear seal. I say let it leak.

front:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617CrankshaftSeal

How do you know its the main seal? They really last a long time. I would take a really good look at other sources for the leak.

Check to see if the oil filter housing is leaking where it bolts to the side of the block. My understanding of the rear seal is that it is a two piece rope type. It is mounted in the rear main bearing cap and block. You would have to almost remove the crank.

I have read on the Forum that there are pins that the Bearing Cap/Journal has pins that stick into the rope seal. So as above the Engine needs to be out in order to move the Crankshaft enought even to remove the old seal.
After that you need even more room to roll in the new Seal properly.

For the rear seal the engine needs to be out, upside down with the crank shaft out of the way.

In the factory service manual, the very first steps in the R&R of the rear main seal are "1: Remove engine 2: Remove crankshaft".

There is one pointed "pin" (on my 616s, anyway) on the block side that keeps the rope in place, no slipping the seal around:(

Sorry, front seal. Got under the front to adjust the alternator and had a 'there's your problem' moment. Rear was dry when I did the clutch.

the front can be done w/ engine in the car.

The common casualty there is misplacement of the balancing disk on the crank / dowel pins and ultimate failure of the crank nose.

take your time.

There are several bracket bolts on the front of the 240D engine. I had my 1982 in to the dealer to have the front seal replaced many moons ago and went to the pick the car up when notified it was done. They charged me to steam clean the engine and then a $2.00 bolt. Seems one of those bolts penetrates an oil passage and over time it gets loose and oil leaks out. Mine fell out and a lot of oil "leaked" out. Anyway, it was under $50, with most of it for the steam cleaning.

Check the bracket bolts - that they are all there and that they are all snugged up tight. Jim

Anyone have pictures of these bolts?

Thanks for sharing, that could save someone allot of work;)