Question for W123 Greasecar users
 

Guys,

Well actually three questions :) I am going to put a 2 tank kit into my 85 300D sedan.

1.) Which tank did you choose? Round 13 gallon in spare tire well, or rectangular 15 gallon in trunk? Why?

2.) What accessories do you have other than the kit? Flat plate heat exchanger? Vegitherm?

3.) Any gothyas with the greasecar system and install that i should know about?

Thanks!
dd

Not a greaser and never will be, but I think I can address the second tank issue.

When MB designed the W123, they integrated crumple zones in to the car. That rear crumple zone was designed around a spare tire being there. Granted, by the standards of today, they rarely get very bent when a modern car plows in to the rear of a W123, but still, it's worth considering. I wouldn't not keep a spare in there. Put a tank anywhere but there.

I would sat the rectangle tank for easy access. the only issue with the rectangle tank is the way it mounts. they should use the width of the car allowing you to mount between the wheel wells so the weight is directly over the Axel instead of at the end of the car. GreaseCar needs to place the filler cap closer to one side or the other.

I'd agree with the above post. Besides the crumple zone, I don't know why you'd want to not have a spare. And if you did, it'd completely negate the space saving issue.

The people I've seen running the spare wheelwell tank have disgusting trunks. Grease gets sticky and everything sticks to it. People with the cap a little higher up seem more successful in pouring cleanly.

You're in Boston. Get as much heat as you can. Get a higher output alternator, because when you start running electrical goodies, you'll have a hard time starting on the stock. It takes a lot of juice to start a diesel in the winter, let alone power line heaters.

The Greasecar kit looks like a good base, but you will need extra heat if you plan on running VO in the winter there. And the two tank won't become worth it to you unless you do longer distance driving. A 10-15 minute jaunt and you'll be on mostly diesel. I've seen it installed and it looks pretty simple to do. Take it slow and remember air bubbles and leaks early on are the biggest short term problem.

heres a better idea, go with a FRYBRID much better design and quality, a bit longer to get and a bit more expensive but MUCH MUCH MUCH better quality and design. keep in mind the cost difference when you realize that you will be driving for free, get the better kit, get the FRYBRID.

i researched it for almost a year, ordered my kit have it half installed as i have more enthusiasm then i do time, once the weather gets nice i will finish it tho.

oh, go with the square tank no matter who"s kit you buy,

Chris (Frybrid) makes a trapezoidal tank that mounts right up against the diesel tank, doesn't he? Add the $250 greasecar gets for a $60 FPHE and 4 x $7 1/2" NPT street elbows, $325 for the copilot controller, and it don't look that much cheaper than frybrid any more. If your in boston, you'll pay sales tax as well for an in-state transaction. Start collecting, read up on processing.

I've never seen a W123 with more than a mess up trunk after a rear end. Mine took an SUV hit and run that rode over the bumper. Honest damage? Trips to the chiropractor, messed up back panel, folded trunk lid, some crushing in the last 2" of the 2" x 4" longitudinal box sections. Got nowhere near the obama poster in the rear window. This of course totals the vehicle.

hadn't though of the frybrid route. i know they make good stuff but i always considered it too much.

i guess now a greasecar kit for new england costs:
$1100 for base kit with rectangular tank
$300 for controller
$100 ish for ebay FPHE

so they are getting up there.

what are the major differences?

dd

I would second the Frybrid recommendation. You get aluminum fuel lines and there's no copper in the tank (don't know if greasecar still does that) and there's no coolant fittings in the tank (don't know if greasecar still does that either..if they do, its definitely something to avoid). And you get the FPHE included and the automatic controller.

However, if frybrid is too spendy or you don't want to wait for it, a greasecar kit would be fine. The big recommendation is an added FPHE, especially for New England. Manual operation isn't too bad to deal with, its what I do, but automatic operation would be nice.

Its not worth messing with electric heat, hot coolant is plentiful from the engine, free, reliable, and just the right temperature. Once your engine is up to normal operating temp, you should be good to switch over. If you have a heated pickup in the tank, a heated filter, heated lines, and a FPHE, your VO should be heated adequately by the time it reaches the IP. You just have to be smart with your plumbing. Try to keep the runs short after the FPHE. ALso, insulating the lines helps (I haven't done this yes, and my fuel temps never get below 165F even when below freezing).

I'd go with the rectangle tank. Frybrid makes one that fits right up in the back of the trunk (against the back seat or diesel tank). Don't know if the greasecar tank fits there, but its the most out-of-the-way place there is.
good luck.

Let me third the Frybrid recommendation. I got 20 gal tank alum that fits in trunk right up against rear seat. (I have 92 300D).

Sorry, I missed this part. Here's a table on frybrid's website. I don't know how current it is, you may have to double check the facts about greasecar, but the frybrid stuff hasn't changed.
http://www.frybrid.com/kittest.htm

In a nutshell, with frybrid you get aluminum tubing fuel lines inside a 3/4" heater hose for hose-in-hose (HIH) heated supply and return fuel lines. Greasecar has a HIH setup, but uses PEX tubing instead of aluminum. Also, there's only one line coming from the tank, so when you purge, the fuel is pushed back through the VO filter. And the return is always looped, so if you get an air leak, theres no way to purge the air out of the loop (while running on VO). Frybrid has a full return setup so any air in the system gets pushed back to the tank. Adding a third valve to frybrids setup allows you to loop the return when running normally (keeps fuel hot, eases load on filter) and can switch to return to tank for purging.

The heated pickup in the tank is copper in greasecar, aluminum in frybrid. The greasecar pickup uses compression fittings to keep the coolant from leaking into the tank. Frybrid has all welded fittings.

Frybrid has automatic operation, based on coolant temperature. Greasecar is manual operation (3-way toggle switch) and you switch when the car is warmed up. You can upgrade greasecar to the co-pilot.

Frybrid includes a FPHE.

I think that's about it. Both are good kits. One uses better materials for working with VO, but, of course, is more expensive.

I have a GC kit in my E300 and it has performed flawlessly for the past 18 mo. But you MUST add additional heat. I have a FPHE. Without, my temps were in the one teens, with I am in the 150-160 range. I am buying another car and may go Frybrid, just don't like losing the info. the Co-Pilot displays.

I hate Chris. I wouldn't use Fry if you gave it to me. And frankly his service SUCKSSSS!!!! If you want to wait months for a part or for any service, choose Fry.

I have the round tank from GC and don't have a disgusting trunk. Actually I keep the
trunk pretty darn clean. I have a large funnel that fits the very large hole and I also
keep a couple small ick towels that I put around the fill hole when I fill. Keeps the trunk clean.

I have to go with Greasecar for price and service. Also, think about insulating the line from the tank under the car to the stuff under the hood. Makes getting to max temp fast and easy and protects the line.

Good luck, driving for free and smelling good it great!

build your own for way less.........

Wow. thank you...this has been an informative thread for me. i have always seen the kits but have never really evaluated the engineering quality of them. i figured greasecar was significantly cheaper than frybrid, but that really isn't the case anymore as someone posted out.

i have done a lot of tinkering building my processing equipment for making biodiesel. based on that experience frybrid may be the way to go. i could roll my own but I need this thing to be rock solid out of the gate. i dont want to have to mess with the conversion come september, im going to be back in grad school and will not have time to tinker.

ginny, your account of dealing with frybrid is indeed a bit disconcerting.

dd

Well Dan,

I am usually reluctant to join in the WVO/SVO discussion because of the sometimes visceral statements surrounding the conversion process. Don't get me wrong, I don't shy from debate, quite the contrary, I just see no purpose in antagonizing the very people that have been so helpful to me in the past.

Nevertheless, if you are committed, let me see if I can provide some illumination.

There are VO hazards:

1) The anti-VO boys ain't wrong expressing their concerns regarding "coking." Coking results from incomplete combustion of poor quality fuel. Cold VO is like injecting 90 weight axle dope into a combustion chamber. But, but, but: heating the VO prior to it entering the injection pump mitigates, in my experience, this occurrence. The purists think that a turbo injected diesel is far too complicated to run on WVO and in doing you are issuing a death sentence for the engine. Perhaps. Mine is an old car, one step away from the crusher. Where is the harm if I squeeze 20,000 city miles (like I have) out of a car destined to be dismantled? If I keep a few bucks out of the hands of Mid Eastern thugs in the process, so much the better.

2) Contamination of WVO fuel is a greaser's obscenity. Filter, then filter some more. Water in the WVO presents a cruise missle heading for the IP. However, my Raycor filter has a 30amp heating element designed to eliminate the water in the fuel. Whatever system you decide upon, reckon with water dispersed in the VO.

3) I live in sunny Las Vegas, the weather is conducive to greasing. Hardly any algae growth in stored SVO, no hard starts and no need to mix fuels. A harsher climate may yield different experiences.


The Kits:

I am very reluctant to shill for any products. Both conversion kits mentioned have their strong points and I think that frybrid sells the highest quality material. I wish to throw another name into the ring, Golden Fuels. I bought their kit ($1000 plus shipping) May 2007 (it is more now, I'm sure). Everything was included. I chose a 12gal tank (pic below) because of the reasons outlined by our brethren in this post. GF's tank has a dozen recessed threadings so you can almost assuredly find a good mounting spot. Now, Golden Fuels uses the infamous Pollack valve. This is the valve that switches the fuels when the engine is at operating temperature. It is a piece of crap, yes. It has failed me twice, yes. But, I squirted a little WD-40 in the body of the valve and it resumed working. Methinks, debris got lodged in the solenoid and locked it in place. Since then, I have been hyper cautious with the filtering and have had no problems for the past 8 months. One last point, GF uses a hose bundle with the VO hose and in/out coolant hoses wrapped in yet another hose. This has been deemed Mickey Mouse or at least inferior to other kits. I don't see it. The HIH application has been failsafe. You can decide for yourself.

Oh, when I called, GF answered their phone and even returned messages.

Gotchas:

Check out the integrity of the existing fuels lines. My fuel tank hoses were slightly worn, sucked air but didn't leak fuel. A tough one to isolate then fix. Your fuel tank screen may be dirty, this is a good time to take it out and clean the screen. On my 85 SD, I had to take the tank out. Point of Order; removing the tank is no day at the beach.

Get yourself a Might-Vac or similar. Do not try this job without. There will be a lot of air trapped in the fuel lines.

The injection return lines are most likely bad, replace those for sure. This can be a source of air leaks.

There is a lot of controversy about the VO return line loop and the banjo bolt. I have not had a problem. I am not sure how frybrid and Greasecar deal with the VO return but a loop works for me. Don't loop VO back to the diesel tank.

Joe Marroso

Disclosure: While not a frybrid partisan, I split my diesel internet time between mercedesshop & frybrid fora, craigslist, or worse, crazedlist.org (like freebasing craigslist- use w/ caution). The greasecar classified page brought me there, but the forum there seems less...rational. To each their own.

Chris of Frybrid appears to have developed an excellent technical basis for the design of the kit and it's operating parameters and logic. It seems more together, and devoid of any 'aw shucks' or 'well, ya know it's gotta be real hot in them injectors, they'll heat it up for sher' engineering.

Customer service wise, it's took me much longer to get an HX then I hoped from frybrid a year ago, maybe that's changed. Look up the number, call, form your own opinion. It seems that if you buy from him and it breaks for causes within reason, he'll stand behind it. My impression, YMMV.

If I had the coin, I'd drop it on frybrid.

I'd go with Greasecar. They're local, Frybrid is based in Seattle. I've been running mine without problems since August. The manual does not mention this, but you will probably need to replace the injector return lines, old lines are pourous and let air into the system. As for installation, I actually took a weekend course on biofuels in Vermont and we converted it then, so I can't give an accurate opinion for the DIYer. I chose the rectangular tank for several reasons: 1) I didn't know how the circular one could fit in the well because of that metal thing in there (turns out you just cut it out) 2) It's bigger 3) I didn't really have a good place to put the spare tire if the well was occupied. The one problem with the rectangular tank is that we could think of a good way to run the lines from the tank to the engine. We ended up looping the lines up and around and down into the spare well next to the tire and through there. We were pressed for time though, so I'm sure you could probably think of a better way to do it. I only went with the buzzbox, but I don't usually end up needing it. You can just use the coolant temperature for oil temperature.

I bought a Frybrid kit for my Dodge Cummins, which has a similar fuel delivery system as the Bosch IP Mercedes, but is more finicky when it comes to air in the lines and fuel pressure. I wanted the best and after four months of waiting I got it. My inquiries about the status of the order were not answered, but I had been warned by others to expect that. It's frustrating though. Chris' instructions were spot on for the installation, and he immediately responded when I ran into a variation in how some terminals on the control unit were labeled. He monitors his forum closely and immediately addresses issues related to technical problems with his kits. This is his version of customer service. The kit has performed well for the past six months I've been running it.

I am in the process of installing a custom three valve system in my 300d using parts purchased separately because I already had a tank and the other bits. The valves, FPHE, and heated filter I ordered from Chris were delivered fairly promptly..couple of weeks.

I recommend the three valve "controlled loop" system as offered by Frybrid. It can be set up without buying a Frybrid kit once you understand the valving. Basically, when running, the system loops the WVO, which pulls fuel through at much lower volume than a straight supply return system. This has advantages. Purging then momentarily pushes it back to the WVO tank by opening the diesel input line. This keeps the diesel and WVO completely separate except for a small amount of diesel that gets pushed into the oil tank everytime you purge, not a big deal. It also simplifies getting rid of air in the loop. Hitting purge sends trapped air to the tank. Keeping WVO out of the diesel side of the fuel system is critical because the metal diesel tank is not compatable with WVO even in small concentrations (ask me how I know:o).

I obviously favor the Frybrid choice because a lot of good engineering has gone into the component design and troubleshooting. But, except for the microprocessor and the in-tank heat exchanger, a reliable system can be put together without buying the kit if one does their homework. I live in the south, so the tank heat exchanger is not really necessary, but I second the need for a FPHE. That and a coolant heated WVO filter are a good combination.

Thanks guys.

I will keep looking into it more. Lots of good info here, i'm sure it will be useful to others looking into conversion

Im going to do another round of seeing what I could do DIY. I may have a source for a customer aluminum tank.

dd

I have the greasecar kit with the rectangular tank. I don't know if the trunk of the CD is shorter, but I couldn't fit the tank in long ways. I put it in against the stock tank, and it fits great back there. Make sure you don't get the remote fill cap, you can't fit it anywhere. I had to get some 1" tubing and use it to fill through, the cap is right under the back window. It's a big pain in the butt. I still wouldn't get the round one because of the spare tire issue.

I don't have the fphe, but I did get injector line heaters from fattywagons. They work pretty well, but I have been having problems with the special tape he provides. Since a bunch of the tape came off, it burnt a hole in the side of it's woven protective coating. I can't use it until I get my fix-it kit.

Just in case you care, I will NEVER buy ANYTHING from Greasecar again. Their advice when buying the system, and the customer service is atrocious. It's good to check out kits for the first run, but now that I know what's going on, I would build one myself.

Dana has a kit calculator / Kit comparison tools on his web site.

http://vegoilconversions.netfirms.com/

He also sells "how to files" you could follow to build your own .

300 series MB's are basically the easiest. Keep your eyes and ears open on how to deal with the hollow banjo bolt ontop of the fuel filter head.

No connection to Dana beyond knowing him a long while. Tell him Coach George (Coachgeo) say's hello.

Ask Biodiesel300TD. He was offering a great custom tank for the public.



BTW - I have a greascar system. All I could say it still works after 25,000 miles.

I made my system for about $290.Two tanks coolant heater,electric filter heater,electric injector line heaters,electric 14 psi pump,2 micron fuel manager filter, manual vavles,Boat tank for #2,No hose in hose I mix 30% diesel in to avoid hose in hose.Better for that million mile diesel./

All in all, two tanks systems are not that complicated or expensive, so you could probably choose any company or build your own and be alright.

I am now going to price out what I can do on my own. I need a heated fuel pickup and a heated filter. Those are my two main items I have unsourced. if I include everything I need for the cold climate, I am going to be up near the 1k mark including the custom tank, heated filter and fuel pickup. Not to mention the valves and the flat plate heat exchanger...

thanks again for the opinions, this thread has been extremely eye opening.

dd

WVO details
 

Hey Dan,

I researched for a long time before I plunged. The time spent was worth it. But I am confused, if you have a two tank system with a heated filter, why do you need a flat plate heat exchanger? Moreover, what is a fuel pickup? I switch over to WVO when the engine is hot and the vacuum from the IP draws fuel from the heated WVO tank.

Joe

Power, emmissions, and most importantly injector & engine life under grease are thought to be best at a grease temp over 160 F. I would refer to the bibliography at frybrid.com, or better yet, shell out $10 or so for forrest greg's excellent book SVO . Not shilling here, but I do recommend. And I mean it. When I say I'm not shilling, I'm not shilling. Not like that guy I knew who would say "I'm not shanking your d*ck here, but...". When he said, that, he was shanking your d*ck. Well, metaphorically, not literally. I mean it. Good book.

But I digress. HOH, HIH, TIH generally don't get you there. A coiled convoluted tube in shell HX, or a FPHE pulling coolant right out of the engine (so it's hottest, not gettting it after the heater core cools it down) will get most within several degrees of coolant temp (typicallly 180+ w/ a working tstat). People like FPHE's cause their compact.

one of the 123 sedans I did
 

16 gal sprayer tank w/ aluminum coil heat Ex., 123 sedan.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCN2407.jpg

frybrid style filter/ heat ex and 2 greasecar valves.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCN2408.jpg

TIH ends right at the filter
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...o/DSCN2409.jpg

no issues running 22 below zero F.

let me know if you want advice.

Nice.

I have been running a plantdrive system for about a year now and it has worked great. Why not install a single tank kit with inline heater? It is colder where you live but if you have a block heater you should not have any trouble starting.

Everyone gets so afraid when talking about single tank system but I would not waste my money on a two tank for these vehicles. They dont need it. By the time you switch from diesel to vo you are already at your destination. Whats the point in that?

With the block heater I have started my car on 100% vo in 15 degrees, after sitting all night. No Problem.

Even if you dont have a block heater or one that is working then you can always mix in some diesel and additive and really have no worries.

You want a true veggie car? Then single tank the thing.

Sorry got a little worked up. Do whatever you want.

Only if you live in Southern California would be good for single tank.Here in TN the weather can be fickle.Hot one day,and next morning frosty.Most VO damage is from cold starting,so even a small diesel tank will give you protection on starting,and purging.

I went the GreaseCar route only due to cost...by the time I got done w/a similar Frybrid setup it would've co$t about 800.00 more. Livin' in Rochester NY doesn't make the ol' oil flow too well. I added a 26 plate FPHE, displacing my windshield washer resevoir to the passenger side of the car. But it works like a champ and I gained +40 degrees (when it was about 10 degrees outside my oil was 165+) I also opted for the controller...I'm gettin too old to remember things. :-)

Challenges: Getting the *=+#%ing fuel/heater hose placed above the rear axle. No/very little clearance, but they gotta stay out of the way...

Rectangular tank, wanted to keep the spare in it's home and who uses the trunk that much. I also reckoned (unscientific guess) that the weight of the full tank in the wheel well would be better placed nearly over the rear axle. NO traction loss this winter - 4 snow tires help that too!

Only item I added bwyond this was some pipe insulation and insulation around the FPHE to prevent some heat loss.

First winter w/the conversion and haven't had a hitch...well, guess winters not over yet, best not to say that too loudly.

Good Luck!

Hah! I moved the squirts too. Only so far I just moved em to the garage! Lemme know if you plan to swing by BFO.

The W123 is a rugged engine and will run on the hint of an oily rag but the real difference in conversion designs is tolerance to oil with fat in it and long term engine life.

A properly designed 2 tank conversion with well dewatered oil will PROLONG the life of your engine. Many conversions don't heat the oil well enough and while the engine seams to run well, you are reducing the life of the engine.

Even in the South, unless you remove the fat from the oil or use oil that doesn't have fat in it from the particular food cooked in it, you will need a heated pickup in the tank for reliable operation. Heated pickup and fuel lines will also eliminate any need to blend in diesel, etc. in the veggie tank.

My conversion is very similar to the Frybrid 3 valve, two tank design and will safely and reliably run on even Lard at any temperature that it will start on diesel.

I could build a 2 tank conversion with parts from the hardware store for under a hundred bucks and it would run well but over time I would be killing my engine and I would also be limited in ambient operating temperatures and oil type.

From my past experience, I know that my engine will last longer than it would if I ran it on Diesel only.

And of course, no mater what the conversion is, the oil must be well dewatered.

Amen to fats.I cold filter,best oil was done below freezing.

I prefer to keep the fats. Higher cetane, higher energy density and less to dispose of. Heated upflow settling gets me fuel with under 200ppm water.

Well, I do usually have a bit of diesel mixed in. I ran my previous car (until it got wrecked) for four years on a two tank with various fat content in the WVO, which tends to be high down here. I never really worried about it, and I never had an issue with fuel flow, which I assume is your point. If you've never lived in south Louisiana, its hard to appreciate just how easy the fat flows most of the year. Just gotta use common sense with fuel management during cool weather. No, a heated pickup is not necessary.

Ron, thank you for your comments.

What components do you use for your two tank system? I guess mainly the heated fuel pickup and heated filter are the parts I need to still source if I am going to DIY. Id rather get a Frybrid system and not experiment (I leave the experimentation that for my biodiesel production)- I am hoping I could get one within three months.

dd

I have done a few MBs on WVO-mine my sons and wifes + some friends. If you have the funds for the first time I would get a Frybrid. Comes complete and dispite what you hear I have had great support from Chris at frybrid-even when I only bought a valve from him.

If you wish DIY send me a PM and I will send you a BOM(Bill of Material) with prices and sources.

I had my nice custom tanks made by a local boat builder. (see photo)They had fill/return/coolant heat coils/vents/drains and even a fuel sender. $300

Filter is key-keep out the water and debri and keep that WVO HOT!

marybeth,

that is a great DIY.

Id love to get the BOM for that so I can see how much it costs you vs. frybrid. how much did the custom tank run you?


dd

has anybody thought of using soda blocks from fountains? they are large blocks of aluminum that sits in the bottom of ice dispenser... has multiple 10mm lines going through it... thinking you could use something like that under a fuel tank to heat it... aluminum block, stainless lines... just thinking here...

Pic or vendor?

Hi dd,

My heated pickup is similar to a HotFox but I built it to replace the fuel screen on the bottom ot the stock tank. Tube-in-Hose using aluminum fuel lines and fittings on the ends that I fabricated from brass T's and Swageloc tubing fittings. Heated fuel filter similar to the frybrid but designed for the smaller MB fuel filter rather than the larger VW filter that Frybrid uses ( I filter and dewater my oil VERY well). FPHE and high quality SS valves similar to Frybrid valves. I have access to a lathe and mill so I fabricate most of my own parts. When I started with used cooking oil about 30 years ago, there were no kits.

Ron,

Thank you for the description. I don't think there are too many who can say they have been running WVO for 30 years - thats pretty cool.

So there is no problem running WVO in the steel stock tank? Do you have a smallish tank for diesel in the back? Maybe a plastic one?

Do you have a description of your filtering/dewatering technique anywhere on the web?

dd

WVO+Steel+Oxygen=Polymerization
 

The custom WVO tank was $10 a gallon (28ish gallons x $10=$280+tax =$300)

I am always hesitant about WVO in a steel tank due to polymerization (chicken skin) build up that is the chemical reaction of steel/WVO/Oxygen

Here are some extreme examples :

http://www.frybrid.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13218

x2
There's a chance you'll find yourself removing the tank for cleaning. But if you blend with some diesel, that supposedly slows polymerization a lot. As far as I know that's hearsay, I got not proof.

Hi dd,

I can't really make a blanket statement that you can always use a stock tank with no problems. All of the vehicles that I have used the stock tank for veggie have had some kind of coating on the inside that was still in good condition. I have never tried a stock tank with veggie that had a bare steel interior.

I have used as small as a 2.5 gallon diesel tank. My 300d has a 6 gallon plastic tank in the left rear fender well with an external fill. I don't need to open the trunk. Veggie oil in the stock fill on the right and diesel in the new fill on the left. Both tanks have 90/0 ohm senders and feed the stock fuel gauge. The stock fuel gauge reads the tank in use and I have a hidden switch to reverse the readings if I want to check the tank not in use.

I have described my de-watering and filtering method on most of the WVO forums. Look for "heated upflow settling".

Hi Ron,

Have you looked inside your 300D tank from time to time for polymerization? And how does it look? The Mercedes 300D tanks have some kind of coating on the inside. I have a small piece cut off from a 300D tank which I left outside in the rain and snow for a month, put salt on it. The coated portion has no corrosion whatsoever, the uncoated portion (where the cut was made) had minimal rust. Mercedes 300D tanks are definitely not plain mild steel, which would have rusted much more.

I have seen pics of Ford 7.3 IDI tanks used for VO and it was ugly with poly. Maybe the Ford tanks are mild steel or had a cheapo coating that wore off?

I have not had poly issues with using my stock tank in the TD. I did have some issues with gunk(fungus, maybe?) for a bit at first, and if I was doing it again I would have dropped the tank and had it steamed out.


oil type is prolly the biggest issue.

I removed the fuel sender to measure it about a month ago. The tank looked like it was half filled with new motor oil (but it smelled like chicken:D )