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  #16  
Old 02-24-2009, 09:58 PM
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I think that the car is a money-pit and you should sell it cheap to me before you come to your senses.
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  #17  
Old 02-24-2009, 10:22 PM
92 300D 2.5L OBK #59
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
I think that the car is a money-pit and you should sell it cheap to me before you come to your senses.
Just how cheap.. You may end up in a bidding war.. LOL
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  #18  
Old 02-24-2009, 10:37 PM
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heh, I'll take some pictures whenver the weather's nice (hopefully this weekend) and let you guys have a look at her, she really is something to see, my fiance gets on me all the time that I love the car more than her, and sometimes I wonder!! But first things first, looks like I'm pulling a blower fan to replace, and looking to burn tax return money on all parts for this lovely list of jobs, and then digging right in, manuals in hand er... well on computer lol. only thing I have issues with or foresee problems with is going to be the testing injectors, and compression, I assume there's a device I can acquire to make this pretty simple? oh yeah, and I'm not selling untill I get it fixed, and even then i'd list it at about a thirs to half what I paid, and I paid 7900 with me putting about 50k miles on it in about 5.5 years.
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  #19  
Old 02-24-2009, 10:44 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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Noisy blower motor.... You may be able to buy some time by cleaning and lubing the bearings. I took mine out and sprayed some WD-40 on the shaft. It was quiet for about 8 months (but it smelled like WD-40 for a couple of weeks). I need to do it again, but I want to try something different. I want to try a product called deoxit (which is for electronic contacts) to remove the oxidation, then a spray lubricant with a solid lubricant additive -- PTFE, graphite, molybdenum disulfide, or something. Something that doesn't smell too bad.
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  #20  
Old 02-24-2009, 10:44 PM
92 300D 2.5L OBK #59
 
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Location: Central FL
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Oh.. BTW.. Here's a really great link...
W124 300D Maintenance

HVAC system:


Good luck..
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Last edited by bobodaclown; 02-25-2009 at 08:11 PM.
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  #21  
Old 02-24-2009, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobodaclown View Post
I think Dave would appreciate it if you used a hyperlink to his site instead of the URL. To do it like that you click on the little globe located in middle directly above. So it would look like this: Here's a really great link...
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  #22  
Old 02-25-2009, 01:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasybenz View Post
In what way? My friends 99 E55 AMG hasnt needed much. Overall repair cost and maintenance is low as the car is newer.


For the OP, after spending well over $10K in repairs on my 87 300D i threw in the towel. A 22 year old car is not worth the headache, dont get me wrong i love the car to death but i bought the car as well as my other past old MB diesels because they were cheap to buy.

But even after all that money, the car is still far from perfect or reliable enough where i can trust it to go anywhere. In my opinion, the later model W210 offers up a more reliable car with less money needed to be invested as it isnt as old as your W124 and it has more updated components that make it more reliable, easier to maintain, and repair (OBDII, FSS system, etc)

I replaced my 300D with a C32 AMG because i needed to get my speed fix but i also did it to get out of my money pit and have not looked back since. I still drive the 300D every once in awhile but again i cant trust the car for my long distance journey's nor do i want to drain my wallet anymore then i already have. Id rather be putting that money towards mods for my C32 or in my savings account rather then in the 300D.

The w124's are relatively simple to repair, they do not require the SDS and knowledge of CAN-BUS....I have put a lot of money into my car (recently spent $800 at the stealer to re-attach some wires in my fuse box, when I was almost sure it was the n10/1 module that was bad, which requires SDS to make operable). Don't get me wrong I love my w210, I just wouldn't recommend it as a vehicle to buy if you are unwilling to spend the money to maintain it properly.

The W210's are more unreliable than the w124's simply because there are more things to go wrong....Cracked Dashes, the cheap window regulator mechanism, poorly designed tail light lenses that give frequent lamp defective messages, fuel leaks etc.....Once all these problems are fixed the car is great....If I fully understood that these problems do occur on the W210 and will cost more to fix than the w124, it would be prudent not to change vehicles with the hopes that the vehicle will be less expensive to maintain.

My w210 though is a whole lot more reliable than my POS W211 CDI. Now that car was a nightmare to maintain. I wonder why Mercedes got rid of free maintenance in 05.
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  #23  
Old 03-10-2009, 05:13 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southern MD
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Question, in my earlier post concerning stated repairs by the dealer, he said I needed new Lower Ball Joints, however none of the sites I've been searchin has returned an ID on what exactly a Lower Ball Joint is on my car, is there some other name that I'm not familiar with to search/get a price check on?
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  #24  
Old 03-10-2009, 06:49 AM
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Location: Columbia, SC
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Blower motor

For the blower motor repair order one of these and pull the squirel cages off of yours, marking how they were on your old motor before removing. Small two arm puller will easily remove the cages. Part is $77 and an easy job. Did mine over a year ago.

http://www.***************/search/imageexpand.aspx?imageurl=../secure/PartImages/0130111012.jpg

Or you can order a new with cages for approx. $250
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  #25  
Old 03-10-2009, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselMarine View Post
Question, in my earlier post concerning stated repairs by the dealer, he said I needed new Lower Ball Joints, however none of the sites I've been searchin has returned an ID on what exactly a Lower Ball Joint is on my car, is there some other name that I'm not familiar with to search/get a price check on?
http://www.allpartsexpress.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1993-MERCEDES--BENZ-300d--.5--/--L5--497cc--.5l--Diesel--Fi--Turbo-Front--End--/--Suspension--Steering&yearid=1993%40%401993&makeid=MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&engineid=1193756%40%40300D+2%2E5+%2F+L5%2D2497cc+2%2E5L+DIESEL+FI++Turbo%40%40300D+2%2E5&catid=Front+End+%2F+Suspension+%26+Steering%40%40Front+End+%2F+Suspension+%26+Steering&subcatid=Front+Ball+Joint@@Front+Ball+Joint&mode=PA
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  #26  
Old 03-10-2009, 11:37 AM
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Now, I tend to get insulted by things like that, and would probably wipe my *** with their estimate and send it back to them.
Never go to a dealership unless it's warranty or recall work, and even then make sure they understand before you give them the keys that you will not be paying for anything.
Find a good independent.
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  #27  
Old 03-10-2009, 01:03 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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Thanks guys for your help with my rookie questions and concerns, I am just trying to make sure I get all my bases covered before I dig into figuring out my issues, and fixing them. I may be confused here, but isn't the compression test, and injector test two different tests, but both involving removal of the injectors either way? and can I completely remove them to send them to be "tested", and /or possibly rebuilt? Of course my car will just be sitting there, but I want to make sure they're good of course and not the cause of my issues. I believe with the white/smoke issue I'm gonna change out my transducers (vacuum solenoids) that control the wastegate on my turbo, and do the compression test, and go from there.


*EDIT* D'oh!!! just reread my own blasted thread and saw that the injectors HAVE to be removed in order to do the compression test. ugh!! I really should scan these threads before just posting a blind reply to people.. sheesh... I'm going to search as well, but if anyone has successfully done a compression test with pics a link would be awesome. I've read through it in the manuals, but I'm still confused as to what goes where.

Last edited by DieselMarine; 03-10-2009 at 01:15 PM.
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