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  #1  
Old 03-02-2009, 06:16 PM
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1985 300 SD, started for a few seconds and then...

Had a heavy snow storm here in NJ. Around 4:30 PM, I brushed off all the snow on my car and tried starting it. The temp read -7.5°C.

When the glow plug light went out, I cranked the vehicle and after a bit longer duration of holding the key, the engine started up. After about 4 or 5 seconds though, it stalled out.

Tried to restart it but I only get a click after the glow plug light goes out...

battery reads 13.59 volts.

I plugged the car into an outlet AFTER this all happened...

Probably should have heated up the block beforehand....

Checked the relay fuse (30 Amp) and it looks fine...

What should I check, do next?

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  #2  
Old 03-02-2009, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triacon View Post
Tried to restart it but I only get a click after the glow plug light goes out...


What should I check, do next?

Cable connections at battery.

Possible bad starter solenoid (if cable connections are good)
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  #3  
Old 03-02-2009, 06:20 PM
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Have some one try and start car as you read the voltage on the battery.If it drops below 10.5 volts,you need to remove battery let it warm.Or replace,or charge it.Winter kills batteries,most diesel batteries you are lucky over 3 years in cold climates.
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  #4  
Old 03-02-2009, 06:21 PM
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The click, either the shifter is in the wrong position or you didn't pull the key all the way out before trying again.
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  #5  
Old 03-02-2009, 07:27 PM
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So I hooked up a battery charger and ate dinner.

The block heater has been plugged in for about 2 hours or so...

When I turned the key, and let the glow plug indicator light go out, I turned the key that little bit more and delay then a labored crank, two more cranks and it started up.


did not check the battery, with volt meter upon starting, will try that tomorrow.

might need a new battery...
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  #6  
Old 03-02-2009, 07:41 PM
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When its that cold you need to help it out a little bit once it starts....hold the engine around 900-1000rpm for 30seconds to a minute or so....that lets it build enough heat to get going without stalling.

If it dies right after extended cranking you're toast unless you have a super battery....even then the cylinders might be wet with fuel and a restart likely won't happen.
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  #7  
Old 03-02-2009, 08:05 PM
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Thanks for that info. I will try it next time...

Was told by previous owner not to touch the throttle when starting, but he was in a warmer climate.
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  #8  
Old 03-02-2009, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triacon View Post
Thanks for that info. I will try it next time...

Was told by previous owner not to touch the throttle when starting, but he was in a warmer climate.
When its super cold, crank without touching the throttle until the engine starts firing/trying to run...then give it enough throttle to hold it around 1000rpm. I've found that to be the best way to start in the extreme cold. Don't press the throttle until the engine is starting to fire evenly, or it will make starting harder/impossible.
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'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
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  #9  
Old 03-02-2009, 08:22 PM
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Neutral safety switch could be doing it, try starting in reverse with a good foot on the brake. Get under the intake manifold and try smacking the starter with a big wrench or something to try and knock the solenoid loose.
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  #10  
Old 03-02-2009, 08:41 PM
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I do not remember how much longer; but, after your Glow Plug light goes out if you hold the key in the Glow position it will continue to Glow for a while longer. Some place there is a post that tells aproximately how much longer.
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  #11  
Old 03-02-2009, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I do not remember how much longer; but, after your Glow Plug light goes out if you hold the key in the Glow position it will continue to Glow for a while longer.
On an 85 it will continue glowing for 30 sec after the indicator lamp goes out.

-Jason
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  #12  
Old 03-02-2009, 09:33 PM
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MY w115 240d did exactly that this winter, ran like it could go anywhere for a second or two, than died and would not restart, it was a plugged tank vent.
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  #13  
Old 03-02-2009, 09:40 PM
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Thanks again, will check things out tomorrow. The car is plugged in for the night and the charger is finishing it's job.

I'm going to look up info about cold starts on this forum. I remember reading something about turning the key twice as well as pressing the throttle and holding it down while cranking... something like that but like I said, want to find the info again...
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  #14  
Old 03-02-2009, 09:47 PM
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I found the info:

The factory extreme cold start drill :

pump the acellerator twice then hold to floor (someone PLEASE tell me how this helps ?!)

Cycle the glow plugs twice then crank the engine but DO NOT LET OFF THE KEY untill all 5 cylinders are firing and it'll start every time , first time .

When the car was new there was a red cradboard tag with all the extreme cold starting drill info on it..

someone sent this sometime in 12/2008
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  #15  
Old 03-02-2009, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triacon View Post
I found the info:

The factory extreme cold start drill :

pump the acellerator twice then hold to floor (someone PLEASE tell me how this helps ?!)

Cycle the glow plugs twice then crank the engine but DO NOT LET OFF THE KEY untill all 5 cylinders are firing and it'll start every time , first time .

When the car was new there was a red cradboard tag with all the extreme cold starting drill info on it..

someone sent this sometime in 12/2008
This is from my factory owners manual:

Ambient temperature below 0 degree C

Depress accelerator to the floor. Turn key in stering lock clockwise to the stop. Release key only when the engine is firing regularly and back off accelerator slowly.

Do not interrupt the starting process. If the engine is very cold it is possisble that it will fail to start on subsequent attempts.


I find it very important to floor the throttle when starting a very cold engine.

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