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#1
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I know where there is a first gen SEC in the yard, are the rears AND the front aluminum/magnesium? sounds like a nice uprade for unsprung weight reduction too.
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![]() 1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#2
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UPDATE...
Well, it's been over a month since I called my mechanic and had him tow the car in. As usual, the "going to be done in 3 days" turned into a month of excuses while I wait.
Now, instead of him physically trying, after this delay, he called someone he knows and they said that they will fit on, but the geometry will be "off..." I am NOT SATISFIED, but I'm getting kind of used to this sort of nonsense. New metal ones have been ordered from the West Coast. I'll list the aluminum ones in my eBay store. What I would like to ask you all though is, if one was simply switching out both rear trailing arms, installing the three new subframe rubber parts and putting the car back together, what's a reasonable estimate of the time a shop SHOULD charge? We're changing the brake discs/pads with new ones, but they have to come out anyway, as I see it. The new arms will get new main bushings (total of 4), new bearings and new parking brake pads. PLEASE give me your input as to how much "sounds right" in hours for the labor to do just that??? Another question - I believe the OTHER rubber pieces on the original arms are called "spindle bearings..." The local shop, where this job started said that they recommend changing them. The machine shop they use insists that they can't do this, as it needs a special "push pull" press. Are those 3 on each arm "other bushings" in fact called "spindles bushings?" How hard is it to change them? How important is it to change them??? Any help would be most appreciated. I am SOOOOOOOOOOO disgusted with shops dragging my projects out. I ORDERED the correct parts. The used Mercedes place sent the wrong ones and insisted they'd fit. My towing companies that I've used lately are all a bunch of flakes. How the hell can the world function with so many incompetents out there??? I'm buying my own lift this summer. I must be living in a fantasy world or something, expecting shops to "do their job" without unreasonable delays. I have a Porsche 928. It needed a timing belt job, as preventive maintainence. That, an x-pipe installed, a intake manifold refresh (hoses) and brake pads. It spent over 5 months between 2 shops, and came back to me with problems that have yet to be worked out. Sorry to vent, but I would appreciate any additional advice, particulary an estimate to do the work on the Benz's trailing arms I described above. Thanks so much for the previous advice/support. All the best! Nick |
#3
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Anyone, anyone???
Anybody care to estimate how long a competent shop should charge for removing and installing rear trailing arms and replacing subframe mounts? lol Anyway, I'd REALLY appreciate an estimate. One shop says "as much as half a day" and another says "at least 15 hours..." Both are the same hourly charge... Hoping for input... Bummed that the aluminum arms won't fit, I suppose, or at least I can't find anyone to try... Nick |
#4
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I'm trying to think how long it took me to do that job in the yard. I would say if things are not all rusted, and erring on the longer side of things. 1hr to take the whole sub-frame out. 0.25hr to take the diff and axles off. 0.25hr to take the trailing arms off the sub-frame. 1hr to replace all the bushings in the trailing arms (both). 0.25hr to re-install arms, 0.25 reinstall diff, and 1.5hrs to replace sub-frame, sub-frame bushes (if they have the right tool...I had to make one to get the bushings seated properly), and any other misc. stuff.
4.5hrs I would think for a shop. In the yard I think it took me about 2hrs, but I work fast. Its a really easy job and I would do it again in a heart bead. In fact I will this summer, its my 240D's turn to get trailing arm bushes.
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1998 Mercedes E300TD 1983 Mercedes 240D Turbo, 131bar injectors, Cosworth intercooler and 63' Ford Falcon radiator, Ardic Parking heater, Headlight wipers, Best 38.6mpg. 1973 Saab 96 Rally Car, 1.8l V4 with all the race bits |
#5
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So, a minimum of 15 hours, or more, is DEFINITELY a really suspiscious estimate from a questionable mechanic?
Thank you so much for your input, BTW. We LOVE the car but feel a little stressed out with it off the road for so long... |
#6
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a min of 15hrs is crazy!! What your paying for is the fact that they have no idea what they are doing on a MB. If it was someone who worked on these cars even now and then would know its an easy job.
where are you located?
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1998 Mercedes E300TD 1983 Mercedes 240D Turbo, 131bar injectors, Cosworth intercooler and 63' Ford Falcon radiator, Ardic Parking heater, Headlight wipers, Best 38.6mpg. 1973 Saab 96 Rally Car, 1.8l V4 with all the race bits |
#7
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I thought so. Thanks for confirming this. I'm in Hazleton, Pennsylvania, which is in the northeast part of the state. About 2 hours north of Philadelphia and 2 hours west of NYC via I80...
The local shop across the street suggested "maybe, a half day" but also felt that 15+ hours was unreasonable... Any advice? Thanks so much. I've wondered who to trust. : ) Nick - 1983 300D Turbodiesel |
#8
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Pretty sure someone had already said that somewhere else. Not sure how they can be interchangeable on the 126 and not the 123 if the 123 uses the same steel ones.... What was the physical problem?
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#9
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Oh, perhaps someone/several did answer. I checked around a lot, on several forums back then. There were a lot of opinions. Just was here posting a new question and thought I'd confirm MY results in case it helps others in the future.
I had rusted out rear trailing arms. Ordered steel replacements from somewhere in Arizona and received aluminum ones. Their response was that they are interchangeable. The car was in two shops, to deal with those nearly collapsed rusty rear arms. The second shop didn't think it would work but tried nonetheless, and insists, though close, it just won't work, and there was no easy modification to make it so, unfortunately. Car has been great since. :-) All the best! nsantolick Hazleton, Pennsylvania |
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