I took the air filter housing off along with the battery this morning to get to the problem area. With the battery out, the sqeek is still most intense in this area (borrowing the picture) - but on the passenger side.

Noticed that this bushing is split so it looks like installing it should involve just taking off the bracket that holds it in place and 'wrapping' the bushing around the torsion bar?! hopefully no surprises there especially with the tension on the bar... not sure how that will playout but I'm sure I'll find out... Any other tips would be appreciated.

I guess, how do I take the tension off that bar - I'm assuming it's under tension while the wheels are on the ground... if I were to jack up both sides of the car and have the wheels just 'hanging' - would that relieve the tension or no?!

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1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

This is from the FSM.
First three...

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Last three.
Somewhat involved. You may be able to change one mount out without removing the entire bar.

In pic #3 above at the top it says "remove tandem main cylinder and brake unit."

In the last pic here, #12 reads "slip rubber mount of torsion bar bearing on front wall on torsion bar, with separating slot toward the rear."

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Thanks toomanyMBZ - appreciate it...

__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD
1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD
2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K;
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K

No prob.
Folks are here to help.

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83 SD

84 CD

the rubber mount on that side is easy enough to do. you pull the battery tray, pop off a plastic cover and there it is. soak it w/ your favorite nutbuster and let it soak- you dont want to break one of these bolts off.

you may well want both wheels off the ground for the next step, remove the old, put on new. only tighten the bracket bolts with the front wheels on the ground, though, so they are under load.

consider doing both sides- I think you could do the drivers side w/ out removing the brake booster, but even that is not too hard to do- you do not need to remove the master cyl- only unhook it from the booster.

if you have the fsm, it takes you thru all this.