I helped a member replace his bearing a while back and it required driving on the shaft. Wasn't fun... ended up taking it to a shop and having it pressed in place.

I have a new bearing for my wagon in hand but have putting the job off due to past experience. We'll see how it goes.

Thanks.

whatever i did the sleeve nut wouldnt come loose, i broke a 11mm wrench trying to wedge the driveshaft and then it wouldnt loosen with a 12" adjustable wrench on the inside nut and huge channel locks on the outside.
so i gave up on the sleeve nut, i was just dropping the diff and i thought i would need to loosen it but i didnt.

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I'm a little confused over the orientation of the bearing support ... you said the side with the little "ledge" that the bearing backs into should face toward the rear of the car, which makes sense, but mine was facing the other way when I took it off the driveshaft. And the picture in the manual looks like mine did. In this picture, which direction should this side of the support face?

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Re-read POST # 3 & see picture # 3.


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1984 MB 300SD Turbo

Step # 3 was to remove the flex disc and compress the driveshaft ... I'm assuming you meant step 12, which I read carefully but just want to clarify if I'm reading it right.
In my AllData manual, it states "Install rubber mount in such a manner that inner V-fold points toward universal joint." This is the diagram ... I have marked in red the "shoulder" that the bearing sits up against, and the direction that is front of the car. It looks like that is opposite of what is described/pictured in step 12 ... if I'm reading that step right, it says the shoulder should face the rear of the car. I'm not saying the DIY is wrong ... more likely, I'm reading something wrong, so I'm looking for clarification. I really don't want to do this wrong and have to take the driveshaft apart again. Ever.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Sorry. It was POST #3.


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1984 MB 300SD Turbo

Ah, that makes more sense. Still, the picture and description are opposite of the way mine was orientated on the car, and the way the manual depicts it above.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

I just did the carrier bearing swap, and it took me about 3 hours. I was able to easily slide on the new bearing after heating it up in boiling water, and sliding it on a frozen shaft end, no pounding at all.