The diagram of the direction of the carrier bearing support is correct. The V fold points toward the rear.

The cir-clip has bent tabs. The proper installation of the cir-clip is with the bent-down tabs toward the ring in front of the u-joint.

If the halves of the DS need to be separated or not depends upon the model (engine type).

Removal of the 46mm nut can be accomplished with just one 46mm wrench (or one big adjustable). Just have a helper inside the car press on the brake or select Park (auto trans) each time you rotate the DS while losening the nut.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

my '84 300d is making a thump thump thump sound, 16 to 19 mph, under acceleration. doesn't seem to matter what gear.
my lead foot makes it worse.
is this a symptom of carrier bearing failure?

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'85 300DT 170K
'99 R1100RS 63K
'84 300DT 126K ate her own camshaft
'83 300DT 252K executed by non-driver
'68 F-100 138K sold (why?)

fruitcakesa,

An Old Arthur Dalton trick is to roll the chassis back and forth 10-15 feet on it's
wheels BEFORE tightening the Clamping 46MM nut.(It "Settles" the driveline.)

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

brihawali,

'Also might be one of the flex discs.

Ignore things that go Thump,Thump,Thump at your own risk!

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

the bearing was fine.
the holder was shredded.
both renewed,
thump gone.

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'85 300DT 170K
'99 R1100RS 63K
'84 300DT 126K ate her own camshaft
'83 300DT 252K executed by non-driver
'68 F-100 138K sold (why?)

Actually this isn't a trick at all. I don't know why MB doesn't mention this in the W123 maintenance library, but it's in the W114/115 manual. And the rolling, by just a couple of feet, should be done a few times with both the 46mm nut and center support not tight. Then tighten the nut followed by the center support.

This procedure must be done, followed by the tightenings, with the car on its wheels. If the procedure is not done, the amount of difference is minute and any stress can usually be taken up through the rubber center support - it's quite flexable. Omitting this procedure will not cause any drive-line vibration.

__________________

Don't Chrome them; polish them

Does the car really have to be on it's wheels and roll back and forth, or I can just take the shortcut by just spinning the wheels a couple of times, clockwise and counter while the car is up on jack stands?

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'85 300D Turbo - CA Version

This is not a recommendation not to do the rolling thing. But, when I did mine a few weeks ago I had the Car on Ramps in the Front and Blocks under the Back Wheels. The Ramps kept me from rooling the Car.

I tightened up the Coupling Nut and did not roll the Car. I figured If any problem showed up I would go back and loosen the Coupling Nut an Roll the Car.

Part of the reason for not rolling the Car was my Wrench is a over 2.5 foot long combination Wrench; no room to tighten or loosen anything while the Car sits on the Wheels and I was in a big hurry to test drive the Car because I had also changed the B2 Piston and wanted to know if that part of the job worked.

So as it turned out I am having no issues with the Driveshaft or vibration and will leave it alone for now.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I didn't do the rolling either.
Also probably misaligned the splines,
as I had rubbed off my marks.
(don't use a wax pencil)
All seems fine, couple thousand miles later...

__________________
'85 300DT 170K
'99 R1100RS 63K
'84 300DT 126K ate her own camshaft
'83 300DT 252K executed by non-driver
'68 F-100 138K sold (why?)