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  #1  
Old 04-18-2009, 11:41 PM
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96 300d , non turbo power problems

96 300 good power when cold no power when warm, No fuel or air leaks , new filters pre and main. can not move up slight incline when warm , just sits there, trans maodulator has been adjusted up and down no change , new o rings all filters. Has good pick up when cold. Vacum pump working within specs warm and cold. Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 04-18-2009, 11:54 PM
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Souds like it is EGR/ Intake related. Do a search on these subjects and I think you can solve this air starvation issue. Jim
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  #3  
Old 04-18-2009, 11:57 PM
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intake has been cleaned and egr is clean all dampers are working, good vacum to all lines, new air filter, thanks any other ideas?
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  #4  
Old 04-19-2009, 07:35 AM
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When you say "no power", do you mean nothing happens when you press the throttle or does the engine rev but you don't go anywhere? Does the engine sound like it's straining against something or slipping?
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  #5  
Old 04-19-2009, 09:43 AM
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engine does not rev, car does not move. if i put in neutral engine revs.
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  #6  
Old 04-19-2009, 03:35 PM
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I bet its the k40 relay. Its the relay that controls the pump. I guess what happens is that the connections on the relay crack increasing the resistance and therefore increasing the heat. Once the relay overheats it cuts the fuel to the motor. That is my guess.
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  #7  
Old 04-19-2009, 06:04 PM
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Wow, I'm stumped. That is a weird situation. Any time anyone suggests a 606 is down on power I think filters, but you have that covered.

What could heat up and prevent the car from moving - the fact that it will rev in neutral but not drive suggests a trans issue to me.

Keep us posted on this!

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 287K
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  #8  
Old 04-19-2009, 06:09 PM
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I am going to try a stall test ill keep you posted.
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  #9  
Old 04-20-2009, 10:10 PM
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Did stall test did not get rpm over 1000, havny been able to find specs for my car, any ideas? It does make sense maybe torgue convertor, no power off line . Any other tests before i rip out convertor?
thanks
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  #10  
Old 04-22-2009, 09:09 AM
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could this be over load relay? or kd40 relay , car does idle a little rough,
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  #11  
Old 04-22-2009, 09:37 AM
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OK, so, the engine revs in neutral. Does it rev promptly? Normally, with authority or does it simply rev lazily? I ask because I believe the ECU recognizes that the car is not in gear or when you're foot is on the brake and will adjust how much fuel is given in response to input from the pedal.

Now, when it's in gear, with your foot in it and the car is not moving, you say it will rev up to 1000 RPM. When it's revved up, does it act like it's pulling? Straining against someting as if the car is chained to a tree and can't move?

Or... when you put it in gear, do you feel a normal clunk but it won't drive the car forward at more than 1000 RPM?

I'm feeling like some switch or sensor is telling the ECU not to allow any fuel rack travel.
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  #12  
Old 04-22-2009, 09:45 AM
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when car in gear , again just with car at normal temp, it is moving slow inching foward building up momemtum, mash foot to floor and car does not rev above 1000 as if foot on brake, just inches foward , no strain on engine.
with car in neutral engine revs normal, a little lag then buids up. Thanks
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  #13  
Old 04-22-2009, 10:07 AM
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OK, then my theory is the ECU is not moving the rack. So something is changing in the sensors when it's warm.
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  #14  
Old 04-22-2009, 10:15 AM
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thanks is there a diy sensor finder here? how many sensors are there ?
can it be k40 relay? Thanks
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  #15  
Old 04-22-2009, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feam View Post
thanks is there a diy sensor finder here? how many sensors are there ?
can it be k40 relay? Thanks
If I were you, I would start with a new K-40 relay. As for the sensors, there is a black sensor that is attached to a small vacuum hose coming off the intake manifold. There is the Throttle Position Sensor. Then, there are two other vacuum sensors that are attached to the air intake filter box. They are both the same part number, one controls the egr valve, the other the resonance flaps. I am sure there are more that I haven't mentioned, but my first course of action after eliminating the K-40 relay would be to disconnect the electrical connector to each sensor, and spray it with an electronic contact cleaner, which can be picked up at Radio Shack. I had an issue this past summer where I got a code for the Throttle Position Sensor.......no driving issues, but still a code. Checked all the vacuum lines, no problems, then went on to clean all the electrical connectors to the various sensors, and presto.....code was reset, and has not returned. This route is not expensive, but does take a little time and effort to complete. Wish you luck in finding an answer to your problem.
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